Another 8N Not Starting Question

[Rockfootball47]

Another Update.

Today we were able to work on the tractor. We replaced the Distributor Cap, Coil and resistor. Unfortunately it didn't immediately begin sparking, but we were able to determine that gap was insufficient on the distributor which we fixed allowing all four plugs to spark.

Now we have a different issue. Even with the spark plugs finally doing their job, we couldn't get the engine to start. It would just crank. We confirmed that the carb was getting fuel. We even sprayed some starter fluid in the cylinders. Still no starting. While this was going on we noticed that the oil pressure gauge was on 0, it had been all along but it mean't more now that we noticed we couldn't manually crank the engine.

This is where I need help. My assumption is that either the oil pump is bad, or that there is a clog in the oil lines from all of the sediment that was in the oil pan. I did replace the gauge when this project began because the old one was rusted. I just unscrewed the old one and screwed on the same line to the new one.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Soundguy]

cranking rpm is rarely enough oil volume to get the gauge to bob, except of real good engines. average N won't show much if any oil pressure upon cranking.

you can take the line off the gauge and the plugs out and crank over and see if it moves a bit of oil to ooze out. if nada. then pull the large hex headed bolt/plug looking oil relief plunger out of the front of the block and use a gear oil squirt bottle and shoot some gear oil.. even 85w140 in there, then repalc ethe plunger and crank her over.. that should prime the oil pump.

now. if it has spar.. it should make pops if you spray start fluid into carb mouth.

if no pops.. check for stuck valves. thumb test will work.

 

[Rockfootball47]

Long time coming update.

Since my last post I have moved the tractor to my home and have narrowed my problems down to compression. Across all 4 cylinders I was getting anywhere from 15 to 30 psi. So I decided to try a couple different tests to confirm the cause. I used a gasket scraper to clean the block and head, let a small amount of marvels mystery oil soak on the pistons/cylinders to see if the rings were to blame and replaced the head gasket. Checked the compression again and has anywhere from 15 to 40 psi. I have now narrowed the issue down to the block, and valves. So I talked to a local machine shop and they are able to machine the block, and I plan to replace the valves rather than resurface due to some chips in a few of them.

To take my block into the shop I need to disassemble the engine. Is there anything I need to be particularly careful with concerning the teardown? I already have the front column off, and the engine separated from the transmission case/rear end. I have been unable to find much information when it comes to how to specifically take everything apart and what to pay attention to to ensure an easy reassembly. Are there any guides out there for how to take the engine completely apart and replace the valves?

 

[Soundguy]

just follow the service manual.

mark your rod caps and all.. etc. keep all parts for each jug and caps in the correct directions.

 

[Rockfootball47]

just follow the service manual.

mark your rod caps and all.. etc. keep all parts for each jug and caps in the correct directions.

While the service manual does have a lot of the information, it doesn't list any tools required, or specific order things need to be done in. It just jumps all around to different parts of the engine. Thats why I was hoping for a clear instructional video or guide that not only listed tools required, since I don't have most specialized ones (i.e. valve lifter, engine hoist, etc)

 

[Jwolf223]

I normally tear down the motor completely remove the pistons, cam, anything that is moving I normally remove and send the block, crankshaft. Ask if you can get a new cam and valves and they will do a valve job, clean the block and heads machine the crank and you will want to get new crank bearing along with it

 

[Soundguy]

might aw well machine for cam inserts if doing all that!

 

[Rockfootball47]

With the help of a friend I got the engine removed. Now I am trying to figure out how to mount the engine on an engine stand I got from harbor freight (cheap I know). Does anyone know what threaded holes in the engine I should use to mount the motor onto the engine stand?

 

[Jwolf223]

I normally put the bolts in two in the top and two in the sides equally distributed along the bolts holes diff possibles I would put two on top and two on the bottom to hold the weight because those four cylinders are as heavy as a v8

 

[Soundguy]

use the perimeter bellhousing holes. it will fit. I have a HF stand.. 4 lil arms right?

 

[Rockfootball47]

use the perimeter bellhousing holes. it will fit. I have a HF stand.. 4 lil arms right?

I got the 2,000 lb model they had. Heres a link. 2000 lb. Foldable Engine Stand


I am assuming this is what you mean by how to attach it.
http://www.tractorforum.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=80422

Do you by chance know what length and size of bolts you used? I am assuming they must be hardened. Anything else I should pay attention to?

 

[Jwolf223]

Yup you need to try and balance the weight so the arms don't break on you

 

[Jwolf223]

I normally use grade eight bolts that are longer but will be the same size and threads probably four to five inches long

 

[Jwolf223]

Another is to watch out for the is the oil pan if you have a older one like my 9n it will be aluminum and it might be a good idea to take anything off that is not already off like the clutch, flywheel anything that can be easily taken off while on the hoist

 

[Soundguy]

that's the same stand i got, and yep.. x pattern pretty much like that was is how i set it up. i use gr5 allthread on mine.. so i can vary the lengths for different applications.

 

[Rockfootball47]

Another is to watch out for the is the oil pan if you have a older one like my 9n it will be aluminum and it might be a good idea to take anything off that is not already off like the clutch, flywheel anything that can be easily taken off while on the hoist

I already took the starter, front timing gear cover, oil pan, flywheel and clutch off. Once I get the engine mounted I plan to take out the cam and rods/pistons. I am planning to only leave the valves in when I give the block to the machine shop.

Also, is there any special way to hook the engine up to lift it up with the shop crane? I am planning on using two straps.

 

[Rockfootball47]

that's the same stand i got, and yep.. x pattern pretty much like that was is how i set it up. i use gr5 allthread on mine.. so i can vary the lengths for different applications.

Do you know if TSC would have the bolts I would need? I'd rather only have to go to one store.

 

[Soundguy]

tsc's in my area have a pretty good assortment of hardware int he bolt bin. i'd have to say 'yes' as long as they maintain average stock.

on lifting the block. i use 2 slings with eyelets and an adjustable load leveler on my engine hoist. love it!

 

[Jwolf223]

I would let them know that you might need to do a valve job so they can grind and lap the valve faces and seats for the best compression possible

 

[Rockfootball47]

tsc's in my area have a pretty good assortment of hardware int he bolt bin. i'd have to say 'yes' as long as they maintain average stock.

on lifting the block. i use 2 slings with eyelets and an adjustable load leveler on my engine hoist. love it!

Where could I find an adjustable load leveler?