Another ‘how to cut this tree’?

[rd_macgregor]

Earlier this spring, I took down a sizeable poplar that had tipped over across one of my trails a couple of years ago. In the beginning I could walk under it with plenty of head clearance, but it had settled enough that I had to duck this winter in the snow. Anyway, I pinched that saw bar twice, but managed to pull the bar out...leaving the chain behind in the cut... both times. The kerf width of the chain was enough to let the bar slide out once I took it off the drive unit sprocket (I had a spare chain with me). I suspect that a more nearly vertical tree might pinch harder and not allow the bar to slide out, though. The root ball did not fall back down, but this tree had been leaning for a couple of years. I have another in the same area that a hurricane tipped over last year...probably at a 45 degree angle. I went out last week to cut that tree, but listened to the little voice that urged caution, and left it for another day.

 

[MF RED in MT]

A few winters ago I had a 10" diameter + - x 75' tall + - Fir tree bend over and not split open and land across the roof all the way past the ridge of the house.

It was still rooted in the ground about 10' from the edge of the roof, and the bend in the tree started about 4' above the ground.

The cause was a 2' snow storm followed by rain soaking into the snow on the tree, followed by a minus temperature freeze, and I lost about 50 trees.

Most of my trees that year were slightly bent at the top like a fishing pole because this heavy snow/rain/ice was locked on the tree branches all winter.

I first cut the tree branches as high as I could reach, then slowly cut a wide "V" notch on the underside just above the bent radius, then very slowly and with small cuts I started to cut towards the notch from the top.

I had all winter to research/think about removing this tree and still measured my thinking as I progressed with this task.

Just before it finally let loose like a "Jack in the Box" windup toy, I could hear it cracking so I backed off and about a minute later it popped open on the top in both directions and slid to the ground.

This moved the top of the tree about 7' down the roof line and I limbed/cut/repeated the process of bringing the tree completely off of the roof in 7' chunks (with a wide "V" notch on the top and cutting in from the bottom).

KC

 

[Al 2]

I've cut hundreds of dangerous trees over many years with no formal training and probably had many close calls . Mostly luck for most of the years with some experience at the end. Now if I have to take out a tree that is in a somewhat more dangerous situation I use a pole saw to keep me at a more safer distance from the tree. I may start the cut with a regular saw and finish it with the pole saw.
Al

 

[CoyPatton]

I may have missed it, but I did not notice anyone mentioning the likelihood that as the wind blew the tree into a snag of another tree, it probably has some twist effect going on as well.
It is in my opinion very likely that this tree has lots of stored energy. That makes it very dangerous when you start to relief the energy.
Since your neighbor asked you and you asked everyone on the forum, my suggestion is to call a professional tree service if it must come down soon. If it safe to let it stay as it is, leave it alone for 5+ years. If that is unreasonable for some reason, cut a couple of shallow rings (less than 1” deep) around the tree to hasten it dying. After it has died you could increase the depth of these rings slowly as that will help to release some of the energy. Any time you are cutting listen for cracking and creaking and clear out.
Yellow tape around the area would be a good ideal also.
But 1st option to me would be leave it alone for years. 2nd is call in a pro!