Another ‘how to cut this tree’?

[CobyRupert]

With trees that have been cut that then hang up on another tree I’ve been taught to pull them down from a safe distance.
...but what if they’re “hung up” but have never been cut (still attached to the stump and roots)?

Friend has a ~60’ oak tree, probably 18” diameter. The wind has blown the tree and rootball to about a 40 degree tilt from vertical so that the top branches now rest on an adjacent tree. They support the oak to some degree as they curve / strain.

My idea is to cut the tree at the stump and have the trunk slide off the stump, to a more vertical position.... so now the tree is just your “regular” (cut) hung up tree. I would then pull the bottom of the trunk from a safe distance.

How to cut trunk so that saw doesn’t get pinched or destroyed when trunk releases from stump?

The weight of the tree would probably make the tree stay at its current position on stump if cut is perpendicular to tree. Maybe that’s ok as long as I don’t pinch saw?

Or, should cut through trunk be closer to vertical so trunk slides off stump versus a “regular” cut (perpendicular to tree)?
Open face notch on downhill side? Wedges on backcut?
What’s the last part that should be cut, or where should saw be, when trunk releases from stump?
How to not pinch saw when trunk releases?

I’ll try to get a picture.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I wrecked two Stihl 036 Saws, One new, getting pinched in a large tree. Both fell out, only to get crushed!

Pictures are a must for this one!

 

[Deere Dude]

Re: Another 蘇ow to cut this tree?

With trees that have been cut that then hang up on another tree I致e been taught to pull them down from a safe distance.
...but what if theyæ±*e å¡—ung up but have never been cut (still attached to the stump and roots)?

Friend has a ~60 oak tree, probably 18 diameter. The wind has blown the tree and rootball to about a 40 degree tilt from vertical so that the top branches now rest on an adjacent tree. They support the oak to some degree as they curve / strain.

My idea is to cut the tree at the stump and have the trunk slide off the stump, to a more vertical position.... so now the tree is just your 途egular (cut) hung up tree. I would then pull the bottom of the trunk from a safe distance.

How to cut trunk so that saw doesn稚 get pinched or destroyed when trunk releases from stump?

The weight of the tree would probably make the tree stay at its current position on stump if cut is perpendicular to tree. Maybe that痴 ok as long as I don稚 pinch saw?

Or, should cut through trunk be closer to vertical so trunk slides off stump versus a 途egular cut (perpendicular to tree)?
Open face notch on downhill side? Wedges on backcut?
Whatç—´ the last part that should be cut, or where should saw be, when trunk releases from stump?
How to not pinch saw when trunk releases?

I値l try to get a picture.

I certainly am not an expert but as I read your post the highlighted method is what I would do. Hopefully it would sort of slide off or at least enough where a good tug would separate them. I would consider having a spare bar and chain in my hand so if it gets stuck I would remove the stuck saw, if it sticks, from the equation.

 

[Captain Dirty]

Re: Another 蘇ow to cut this tree?

With trees that have been cut that then hang up on another tree I致e been taught to pull them down from a safe distance.
...but what if theyæ±*e å¡—ung up but have never been cut (still attached to the stump and roots)?

Friend has a ~60 oak tree, probably 18 diameter. The wind has blown the tree and rootball to about a 40 degree tilt from vertical so that the top branches now rest on an adjacent tree. They support the oak to some degree as they curve / strain.

My idea is to cut the tree at the stump and have the trunk slide off the stump, to a more vertical position.... so now the tree is just your 途egular (cut) hung up tree. I would then pull the bottom of the trunk from a safe distance.

How to cut trunk so that saw doesn稚 get pinched or destroyed when trunk releases from stump?

The weight of the tree would probably make the tree stay at its current position on stump if cut is perpendicular to tree. Maybe that痴 ok as long as I don稚 pinch saw?

Or, should cut through trunk be closer to vertical so trunk slides off stump versus a 途egular cut (perpendicular to tree)?
Open face notch on downhill side? Wedges on backcut?
Whatç—´ the last part that should be cut, or where should saw be, when trunk releases from stump?
How to not pinch saw when trunk releases?

I値l try to get a picture.

The "textbook" response to cutting the leaner is to make a vertical cut. The top is then supposed to fall (or swing suspended by the crown). In theory, everything works; in practice . . .

In my experience 18" is a big tree and 40ï½° from vertical is not much lean. A vertical cut will be long. FWIW this is my thinking on how to proceed:

Since the tree is supported by the roots and crown, I would start with the premise that the upper side of the trunk is in compression and the lower side is in tension. I would notch the upper side deeply enough to enter the heartwood. This may give a clue as to the condition of the wood. If the heartwood is ant-invested or rotten you are dealing with a wooden tube, only marginal strength in the core. It is my belief that the notch provides some space for the tree to occupy if it starts to "break" and encourages the trunk to break downward, i.e. it folds along the line at the bottom of the notch. Without the notch the cylinders of the trunk are bear against each other at a point, and the trunk is more likely to kick sideways (toward the sawyer). I would then start a vertical cut from the lower side watching the kerf closely. There may be an uprighting moment from the rootball such that the upper side of the trunk is in tension and the lower side is in compression. If the kerf starts to close, I would notch the underside of the trunk and make the vertical cut from the upper notch. Be prepared for the wood to fail and the saw to move downward suddenly.

The above is premised that you can make the cut so the top portion strikes the ground before it is vertical and the crown remains hung up. Be aware that the vertical cut has made the trunk into a sharpened stake and that its weight may well drive it into the ground far enough to make pulling problematic. I have a now battered "stone boat" made from an old oil tank and I try to position it so that the sharpened end of the trunk will strike the "boat". I have found that greatly facilitates pulling the tree down. If you notch the lower side of the trunk, you will effectively "dull" the stake somewhat.

I have been impressed by your knowledge and experience in prior posts. I trust you are wise enough to advise your neighbor to "hire it out" if there is a doubt. The above is provided as food for thought. I am not there, I do not know the situation, or, as one poster's signature advises "My advice is worth what you paid for it."

 

[hosspuller]

I would cut vertical down. Cut a notch on the bottom since the fibers will be in compression as you cut down.. Use wedges to prevent closing on the bar. Be prepared for the stump to swing backwards when free.

 

[4570Man]

If you get a saw pinched take the bar off and remove the power head. A bar is a lot cheaper than the whole saw.

 

[MF RED in MT]

If you get a saw pinched take the bar off and remove the power head. A bar is a lot cheaper than the whole saw.

+1

KC

 

[Industrial Toys]

Trouble with that is laziness. I wouldn't have lost my last 036 if I had gone back to the house and got another saw to unstuck the first one. I probably wouldn't have a wrench to take off the bar.

BUT, I do plan on never loosing another saw that way.

 

[newbury]

Re: Another 蘇ow to cut this tree?

<snip>
I値l try to get a picture.

Pic?

I certainly am not an expert but as I read your post the highlighted method is what I would do. Hopefully it would sort of slide off or at least enough where a good tug would separate them. I would consider having a spare bar and chain in my hand so if it gets stuck I would remove the stuck saw, if it sticks, from the equation.

I'd have a spare saw handy.

The "textbook" response to cutting the leaner is to make a vertical cut. The top is then supposed to fall (or swing suspended by the crown). In theory, everything works; in practice . . .

In my experience 18" is a big tree and 40?ｰ from vertical is not much lean. A vertical cut will be long. FWIW this is my thinking on how to proceed:

Since the tree is supported by the roots and crown, I would start with the premise that the upper side of the trunk is in compression and the lower side is in tension. I would notch the upper side deeply enough to enter the heartwood. This may give a clue as to the condition of the wood. If the heartwood is ant-invested or rotten you are dealing with a wooden tube, only marginal strength in the core. It is my belief that the notch provides some space for the tree to occupy if it starts to "break" and encourages the trunk to break downward, i.e. it folds along the line at the bottom of the notch. Without the notch the cylinders of the trunk are bear against each other at a point, and the trunk is more likely to kick sideways (toward the sawyer). I would then start a vertical cut from the lower side watching the kerf closely. There may be an uprighting moment from the rootball such that the upper side of the trunk is in tension and the lower side is in compression. If the kerf starts to close, I would notch the underside of the trunk and make the vertical cut from the upper notch. Be prepared for the wood to fail and the saw to move downward suddenly.

The above is premised that you can make the cut so the top portion strikes the ground before it is vertical and the crown remains hung up. Be aware that the vertical cut has made the trunk into a sharpened stake and that its weight may well drive it into the ground far enough to make pulling problematic. I have a now battered "stone boat" made from an old oil tank and I try to position it so that the sharpened end of the trunk will strike the "boat". I have found that greatly facilitates pulling the tree down. If you notch the lower side of the trunk, you will effectively "dull" the stake somewhat.

I have been impressed by your knowledge and experience in prior posts. I trust you are wise enough to advise your neighbor to "hire it out" if there is a doubt. The above is provided as food for thought. I am not there, I do not know the situation, or, as one poster's signature advises "My advice is worth what you paid for it."

Good write up but.
Virtually all of my tree cutting has been in the East deciduous forests and I've had many trees grabbed by their neighbors to prevent them from falling to the ground. I generally try to do the last cut from below (so if it breaks it spreads apart and does not grab the saw) and have a rope or chain attached to pull in the direction I want it to go. This is better done with an electric chainsaw because no sound when it's stopped. When I'm making the last "undercut" I listen for creaking then try to pull it sideways. But I've never done a tree over about 80' high, most are deciduous and about 60' or less

 

[CobyRupert]

I like the idea of cutting up from the bottom.
...but maybe after cutting in from the top and setting some wedges?
Then what about maybe bore cutting in from the bottom, leave a strap so nothing is moving as I cut towards top, stop before you get there...then hit the bottom strap and run?