Ammunition

   / Ammunition #361  
If I'm doing anything precision or bench, as you say , I start with 0 fired norma or lapua brass.

I load for most of my group. I have a buddy that has a 35 REM that hadn't seen factory ammo in years ;)
 
   / Ammunition #362  
I purposely stay away from this thread simply because as a builder of custom loaded ammunition for long range hunting for our entire group of 5 hunters and competition marksmen (F Class 1000 yard competition) I don't want to discuss my methods or regimen for loading sub-sub MIL/MOA ammunition or what brand of components I use, but, if you want to obtain first quality once fired Military Brass in 223 (5.56 NATO), 308 Winchester or 300 Winchester Magnum calibers,

I would suggest taking a hard look at Monmouth Brass. I've purchased many hundreds of casings from them in the past and their prices are really good, I receive very little culls and their shipping is fast. I use their OFMB casings for informal shooting and load workups. My final builds are all in virgin Lapua or Norma brass however.

You can buy in quantities up to 20,000 casings at a time and specify exactly what you want, in my case I want all LC.

I believe they also sell loaded rounds, but that is not my thing. I roll all my own.

All of my competition ammo is for pistol. My bulk rifle loads are for blasting. I too use all military once fired brass ... mostly LC.

I do some JC Garand matches but it's 200 yds. so I won't be pressuring you for your F Class "secret sauce" ;)
 
   / Ammunition #363  
All of my competition ammo is for pistol. My bulk rifle loads are for blasting. I too use all military once fired brass ... mostly LC.

I do some JC Garand matches but it's 200 yds. so I won't be pressuring you for your F Class "secret sauce" ;)

I'd never tell anyway. If I did, the supposed 'informed' folks would have a coronary. lets just say I don't adhere to any published specifications concerning length, load or sizing and all my load workups are based on custom machined die sets (John Whidden), made specifically for each chamber.

I start at 200 yards for a coarse evaluation and then in out to 500 for a zero sight in from the bench. I shoot (pun intended) for a 3 out of 5 in the same hole at 500 consistently and that takes some pretty expensive rifles with match grade barrels and actions..... and then, there is the optics.

I shoot deer with a hand gun (S&W 44 long barreled revolver) but with 240 Sierra Sportsmasters in Starline brass with a recommended load of Lil Gun at the SAMMI specified length. Thats about it for my pistol shooting and most times I hunt with a tricked 308 lightweight bolt gun.

Don't believe I've ever just 'blasted' out rounds with no purpose other than making noise and getting a sore shoulder. I usually take just 10 loaded rounds on any hunt, here or far. It only takes one, possibly 2 to bring down an animal no matter what it is, deer, mulie, elk or moose.

All my 'firing' if you call it that is using the Erik Streckler method of determining bullet jump in a particular rifle using a mid range load of a particular powder and then after obtaining the best group of 5, fiddling with loads and trimming meplats to get the lowest BC and fastest MV, then chronographing and calculating drop charts, taking into account spin drift and barometric pressure as well as ambient temperature.

I gave you the very basics with no propellants, bullets, primers or seating depths. Thats all taboo.

You see, I'm of the school of 'one shot, one kill' no matter what the distance is. that distance however is based on caliber and skill. No 'Kentucky Windage' practiced in out group.

Anyway, I read along and get enjoyment from the thread and if I can like I did in the above couple posts, impart some knowledge about folks I've dealt with concerning components.
 
   / Ammunition #364  
It's been over a year since I put in a list from my local dealer for 5 Boxes of .243 WSSM and finally got them today. :) Wife and kids really like the rifle for mule deer. I was really starting to think it was going to become an obsolete rifle.
 
   / Ammunition #365  
It's been over a year since I put in a list from my local dealer for 5 Boxes of .243 WSSM and finally got them today. :) Wife and kids really like the rifle for mule deer. I was really starting to think it was going to become an obsolete rifle.

Save that brass. You are going to want to reload that..:thumbsup:
 
   / Ammunition #367  
I'd never tell anyway. If I did, the supposed 'informed' folks would have a coronary. lets just say I don't adhere to any published specifications concerning length, load or sizing and all my load workups are based on custom machined die sets (John Whidden), made specifically for each chamber.

I start at 200 yards for a coarse evaluation and then in out to 500 for a zero sight in from the bench. I shoot (pun intended) for a 3 out of 5 in the same hole at 500 consistently and that takes some pretty expensive rifles with match grade barrels and actions..... and then, there is the optics.

I shoot deer with a hand gun (S&W 44 long barreled revolver) but with 240 Sierra Sportsmasters in Starline brass with a recommended load of Lil Gun at the SAMMI specified length. Thats about it for my pistol shooting and most times I hunt with a tricked 308 lightweight bolt gun.

Don't believe I've ever just 'blasted' out rounds with no purpose other than making noise and getting a sore shoulder. I usually take just 10 loaded rounds on any hunt, here or far. It only takes one, possibly 2 to bring down an animal no matter what it is, deer, mulie, elk or moose.

All my 'firing' if you call it that is using the Erik Streckler method of determining bullet jump in a particular rifle using a mid range load of a particular powder and then after obtaining the best group of 5, fiddling with loads and trimming meplats to get the lowest BC and fastest MV, then chronographing and calculating drop charts, taking into account spin drift and barometric pressure as well as ambient temperature.

I gave you the very basics with no propellants, bullets, primers or seating depths. Thats all taboo.

You see, I'm of the school of 'one shot, one kill' no matter what the distance is. that distance however is based on caliber and skill. No 'Kentucky Windage' practiced in out group.

Anyway, I read along and get enjoyment from the thread and if I can like I did in the above couple posts, impart some knowledge about folks I've dealt with concerning components.

Interesting stuff. You won't hear me give you a hard time for 'non conventional' stuff. I got some stuff that has never seen factory ammo.

When I say "blasting" that's what I call my 3 gun ammo. Run and gun. The range is only 200 yds so no need to get super **** with that ammo like I do with my hunting ammo.

So, any of your guys do 6.5x284??? I have one in the works I'm building myself. I spend way too much money with Dave Kiff. I would like to do F Class one day but no matches are close to me and I'd have to travel a fair bit to get to them.

I've been a student of Bill Calfee (rimfire) and Clay Spencer ( of Spencer barrels fame Spencer Rifle Barrels he retired and sold his business to a guy out west) so not only do I make my own ammo but also make what I shoot it in ;)

Oh, and I guess you haven't heard ... you don't need a 'real expensive' rifle to shoot 1,000+ yds accurately anymore, all you need is the Ruger Precision Rifle ;)
 
   / Ammunition #368  
I like the old stile six shooter's so I look up some target shooting and some fast gun off the trail shooting video's came up with this very humble and modest guy, he did some impressive shooting, there fast and then there is fast and accurate. Bob Munden Fastest Gunslinger ever Unbelievable - YouTube
Don't try this at home. You'll shoot your toes off. ;) in the old west days he would have most likely been one of those shot in the back. Amazing shooting. Used to see fast draw completions on tv, but not any more for some reason.
 
   / Ammunition #369  
5030, what's that machine in your Avatar?
 
   / Ammunition #370  
Oh, and I guess you haven't heard ... you don't need a 'real expensive' rifle to shoot 1,000+ yds accurately anymore, all you need is the Ruger Precision Rifle

I don't think much of Rugers in general. I have a pair of very tricked out (aka: Volquartsen) Ruger 22 rimfire match pistols but I hardly ever shoot them. In fact I believe I have a full case (10-500 round bricks) of Wolf Match Extra (Eley primed, Vitavorhi powder) somewhere in an ammo box. I used to shoot 50 foot indoor competition but lost interest some years back

One of the guys who shoot on my range has one (Ruger Precision Rifle), I don't think much of it myself. It has a clunky stock and the bolt to receiver fitment is typical of a mass produced piece.... sloppy. It shoots okay but I can get about any rifle to shoot respectably, unless the barrel is curved (I think all AK 47's have curved barrels)....:laughing:

One plus thing about a sloppy fitment is it don't require careful cleaning whereas a titanium bolt / receiver combination that's been lapped and fitted, does.

I was gifted through an estate auction last year, a Smith and Wesson imported 308 Husqvarna Mauser small action 308 in unfired condition. It has the Walnut Monte Carlp stock, engine turned bolt and hand lapped bolt receiver combo. I had Bruce Talley build a custom set of rings for it to mount a 1" side focus scope and added a Pachmyr slip on decellerator pad. It's a wonderful shooting piece, in fact it shoots as well as my custom rifles, but it's heavy and the trigger sucks. It's going to get a custom trigger this year. I heard street price on a pristine Husky can be upwards of 1200 bare. I paid about a third of that.

Will make a nice Michigan deer rifle.

The guys I hunt and shoot with all shoot either 30 caliber or 338 caliber. 308, 300 Win Mag or 338 Lapua. I like those families because I can keep the reloading dies and accessories consolidated... and I've honed my reloading skills on them so I can get those caliber families to do about what I want them to do without blowing up in your face when you touch them off....

That picture in my avatar is a 350 horsepower Scotch Back bio fuel boiler. The people I work for part time have one. It's a Hurst btw.
 

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