Allied cylinder - rebuild or replace?

[bauer5]

This cylinder came off an old allied loader. It is leaking miserably from the top end and I need your help determining whether it's worth the effort to rebuild it or just replace it for $150. I have attached some pictures that show the worn end, and it appears to be just a rubber gasket, no locking mechanism in view. First time dealing with a hydraulic repair so any help is appreciated.

 

[PILOON]

At $150 if it is an exact match I would go that route.
That being said a good shop can OH just about any cylinder to like new.
Generally it is hard to get an exact match leaving U no choice.

Your shaft looks good so I'd suggest OH should be cheapest route to go as probably you only need a seal kit and wipers.

 

[Dave M7040]

I had an Allied 660 on my tractor. The ends of the cylinders closest to where the chrome rod extends would unscrew using a pipe wrench. You could buy seal kits from a dealer who sells Allied but they were expensive. You might get lucky matching at a hydraulic shop. Most of the internal seals were O rings with nylon wipers on either side of them. The one seal which failed often was a small o ring between the push rod piston and the push rod. You had to unscrew a big nut to get to it. When it failed the cylinder would not stay in position. It was the cheapest seal to replace costing only a few cents. The seal kits were about $16 per cylinder
The following diagram is for a 3" cylinder which was used on tractors with low hydraulic pressure but the way it is built is the same as yours.

Dave M7040

 

[bauer5]

I had an Allied 660 on my tractor. The ends of the cylinders closest to where the chrome rod extends would unscrew using a pipe wrench. You could buy seal kits from a dealer who sells Allied but they were expensive. You might get lucky matching at a hydraulic shop. Most of the internal seals were O rings with nylon wipers on either side of them. The one seal which failed often was a small o ring between the push rod piston and the push rod. You had to unscrew a big nut to get to it. When it failed the cylinder would not stay in position. It was the cheapest seal to replace costing only a few cents. The seal kits were about $16 per cylinder
The following diagram is for a 3" cylinder which was used on tractors with low hydraulic pressure but the way it is built is the same as yours.

Dave M7040[/QUO

Ok thanks. I still don't understand how the cylinder is taken apart though as it seems like there should be a retaining lock ring or something similar. Are you saying that turning the rod would unscrew it?

 

[J_J]

Item 12 is your retainer.

Remove it and then unscrew the head plate item 9.

 

[bauer5]

I don't see a head plate - is it under the wiper?

 

[J_J]

I believe the head plate is the part that screws out. item #9.

 

[Tx Jim]

I think the head plate(part key 9) is held in place by only the snap ring(parts key 14) no screwing required to disassemble.

 

[bauer5]

Ok I will try that, thanks guys!

 

[J_J]

I think the head plate(part key 9) is held in place by only the snap ring(parts key 14) no screwing required to disassemble.

If you are looking at the cyl layout above,

Part key 14 is an o-ring. It is down inside the cyl.

Part key 12 is the snap ring/wire retainer. Whether is screws out or just falls out is ???????????