Advise on Hauling my tractor

   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #1  

JMHTX

New member
Joined
Jun 28, 2014
Messages
19
Location
Montgomery, TX
Tractor
2014 John Deere 5055 E Cab
Hello Everyone,

I, and the best wife in Texas are the owners of a New JD 5055E Cab with 6' mower deck,
The specs say it weighs 5800 pounds' and I'm guessing the mower is around 1500.
Note" No FEL now. So a total of approx. 7300 to 7500 pounds.

I have a heavy duty 20' Low boy trailer, Channel Frame, 7K axles.

A few questions

Im looking at a set of ratcheting straps from Tractor supply that have a rating of
3333 Safe work load and 10,000 pound break strength Would 1 at the front
1 thru a clevis on the rear and 1 across the mower be a good plan ?
Would that satisfy the law ?

That's how they had it secured when they delivered it, but with chain instead of strap.

2. Does anyone load tractor by backing it on. It looks like it might distribute the weight well
that way instead of leaving a little of the mower hanging off the back.. or is that a big **** NO.

Advise appreciated.
Jon
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #2  
Park the tractor to get the correct weight distribution. Use 4 tie down points and avoid straps. Chains and binders are the correct way to tie it down with one at each corner . A strap would be ok for an attachment like the mower.
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #3  
Jon,
Legally, if your rolling load is under 10k one strap or chain front and rear is legal and 1 across the mower.
That being said I always use 2 chains front, 2 chains rear, 1 across loader, 1 across 3 pt implement. My tractor w/ loader, loaded tires, and implement pushes 6k-6.3k. I haul on a 23' 14K tilt bed trailer. For the money I have invested I don't want to rely on only 1 strap or chain front and rear. I used straps years ago but found I would only get a few years out of them before they started fraying or cuts in them making them unsafe (IMO). Chains last a lot longer and I have used them for many years.
Others have backed their equipment on their trailers but I always pull my tractor on facing fwd., put it in low range and set the brake as hard as I can. Either way will work if you can balance your load properly.
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #4  
I recommend chains over straps. You'll never see a dozer or excavator tied down with straps

4 independent chains, one diagonally off each corner is best. Trying to save $100 on tie-downs with a $50k load is being rather shortsighted regardless of what the law states.
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #5  
Where are you located in Montgomery? We are 3 miles west of plantersville. Where did you buy your 5055 at? I put a large clevis in the draw bar and run a chain thru it. Then run a short 4" strap around the front axle that I attach a chain to. I like chains over straps for heavy equipment. These are heavy tractors for a bp also so I'd try to keep it back on the trailer a bit. A little hang over isn't terrible. Don't forget the loaded rear tires can add a substantial amount of weight too.

Brett
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the replies. I guess I will be passing on the Strap and getting Chains. What strength or gauge is right ?
How do ya'll avoid marring up your paint ?
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Where are you located in Montgomery? We are 3 miles west of plantersville. Where did you buy your 5055 at? I put a large clevis in the draw bar and run a chain thru it. Then run a short 4" strap around the front axle that I attach a chain to. I like chains over straps for heavy equipment. These are heavy tractors for a bp also so I'd try to keep it back on the trailer a bit. A little hang over isn't terrible. Don't forget the loaded rear tires can add a substantial amount of weight too.

Brett

Hey Brett,
We live in Walden, and my JD is in my driveway. hehehe Cant wait for the letter from the H.O.A.
My land is in Weatherford so I will be hauling it when I go up there and bringing it back as I have some
plans for it around here too. I bought mine from the Conroe Dealer.

I saw your post about you various problems . Did everything get worked out ?
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #8  
Hey Brett,
We live in Walden, and my JD is in my driveway. hehehe Cant wait for the letter from the H.O.A.
My land is in Weatherford so I will be hauling it when I go up there and bringing it back as I have some
plans for it around here too. I bought mine from the Conroe Dealer.

I saw your post about you various problems . Did everything get worked out ?

Hope to get something ironed out tomorrow in regards to getting a different tractor. I'm sure walden HOA is blowing up right now however I'd be willing to bet about 95% of your neighbors are extremely jealous! If you need to borrow some chains and my strap to protect the paint sometime let me know. You can see if you like hauling it that way before spending $150 or more on the chains and binders. The whole reason i bought the strap was to protect the paint on the front axle. I use a big ratchet strap for my brush hog. Couldn't stomach the thought of throwing a chain across the $4k mx7.

Brett
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #9  
Thanks for the replies. I guess I will be passing on the Strap and getting Chains. What strength or gauge is right ?
How do ya'll avoid marring up your paint ?

You need to use grade 70 chain. 5/16 is plenty for your machine if you tie off 4 corners. Those straps you were looking at are good for securing the attachments. I suggest A glove or a piece of fire hose to protect the paint.
 
   / Advise on Hauling my tractor #10  
Hello Everyone,

I, and the best wife in Texas are the owners of a New JD 5055E Cab with 6' mower deck,
The specs say it weighs 5800 pounds' and I'm guessing the mower is around 1500.
Note" No FEL now. So a total of approx. 7300 to 7500 pounds.

I have a heavy duty 20' Low boy trailer, Channel Frame, 7K axles.

A few questions

Im looking at a set of ratcheting straps from Tractor supply that have a rating of
3333 Safe work load and 10,000 pound break strength Would 1 at the front
1 thru a clevis on the rear and 1 across the mower be a good plan ?
Would that satisfy the law ?

That's how they had it secured when they delivered it, but with chain instead of strap.

2. Does anyone load tractor by backing it on. It looks like it might distribute the weight well
that way instead of leaving a little of the mower hanging off the back.. or is that a big **** NO.

Advise appreciated.
Jon

I use two ten foot long, 3/8" grade 70 chains on the back hitched to my tow bar and one twenty foot long 3/8" grade 70 chain up front to the tow hook that is welded to the frame. All three chains are tightened with bar-style chain binders. My trailer has a rub rail along the sides, and so I have multiple places to hook the chains up. Notice also that I use a clevis anchor attached to my tractor's tow bar to facilitate attaching the two chains in the rear.

You're looking at about 7500 pounds of ballasted tractor and loader. If I have my rotary cutter on, adding another 1300 pounds, I must back up and use two pallets to hold the cutter up and over my trailer's tool box. In your case, you should be good driving your tractor straight on and putting the center of the rear wheel just forward of the second set of trailer axles to place enough weight on the tongue and avoid trailer bounce and float. Also, before setting out, air up your trailer tires to 80 PSI.

You want two 20' 3/8" grade 70 chains, 3 chain binders and one clevis anchor sized for your tow bar. Cut one chain into two 10' lengths and add chain hooks at the end. The best price I found on chain was at Amazon: Amazon.com: Ancra 45881-11-20 G70 Chain with Grab Hooks, 3/8-Inch X 20-Feet: Home Improvement

My chain binders all came from my local Fleet store which were on sale, 9600 pound 3/8-1/2" load or chain binder. Your local Fleet store will have everything you need as will any Northern Tool store.

10624628_10203075228341133_5914096983124947240_n.jpg
 
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