AndyR -
I understand - it can be "no fun" running the "trailer gauntlet." I've had some bad experiences with trailer salesmen in the past (just like car dealers) so "buyer beware" definitely applies!
I read your description and admit I'm a little confused on some of the specifics. I went out and looked (measured) mine so you could compare. I'm sure that some of the differences are simply due to style, but my "gut" reaction is that they are asking too much. Prices could certainly be higher up North, but some things just seem a little "out of bounds."
<font color=blue>6'x18' lowboy flatbed</font color=blue>
/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif Sounds awful narrow. Most utility trailers I've seen run at least 80" wide (mine is 84") Are you sure it isn't 7' wide? If it was only 6', for that heavy-duty a utility trailer, I'd say it is "unique" /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif. 84" has worked well for me - tractor/implements/vehicles, etc. I wouldn't want narrower.
<font color=blue>frame is 2x3x.25" </font color=blue>
/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif WOW! That's pretty thick steel for steel box tubing. I've seen 1/4" angle iron, but not box tubing - course I don't weld THAT much. That would certainly add to the strength, but also to the trailer's weight - something to consider. The box tubing on my trailer is 2" x 3.5" and a little over 1/8" thick (maybe 10 gauge?)
<font color=blue>tongue...comes in under bed about 18"</font color=blue>
Interesting. A little different than how mine is built (the best way to describe it is there are 2 "frames". The "lower frame" is essentially a box with a big triangle (tongue) and the springs attach to it. On top, the "upper frame" is the floor "frame" - basically a ladder assembly (same box tube) on 22" centers with the steel plate (1/8") welded to it. I assume that the "A" frame of the tongue on the one you're looking at is welded/integral to the rest of the frame (assuming you have only one). As long as they are good welds, I don't see any problem with 18".
<font color=blue>5' tongue</font color=blue>
That seems a little long to me, but that's just me - course it could help in cornering/backing assuming that the angle is rather narrow at the hitch (e.g. angle between 2 tongue rails).
<font color=blue>brake lights completely encased in 1/4" steel</font color=blue>
/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif WOW! Heavy duty for sure!
<font color=blue>...stake pockets all round, PT deck, fancy paint and lots of reflective tape, etc</font color=blue>
You can get stake pockets from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NTE_LLSEARCH.d2w/report?PHOTOS=on&prlngth=12727.0000>Northern Tools</A> for about $3.50 each. If you are looking to save some $$$, you might consider putting some of these "do-dads" on yourself.
As far as the pressure treated deck, I've always liked steel myself, although wood works fine too for most things. If you are using your trailer for rocks, well, they may gouge the wood. Course if you use steel, some of the paint will get scratched off so rust will come in to play. Just up to you I suppose.
<font color=blue>He is quoting $90.00 for an installed brake controller</font color=blue>
That sounds reasonable, although he is
probably going to put in a $50 controller, so if you want to save some $$$, you can do it yourself in an hour or 2 pretty easily (even quicker if your truck is "pre-wired")
Again, it's hard to give a true "opinion" without seeing it close up, but based on what you said, it still seems a little high to me. I spent $1700 on mine, although "upgrading" to 2 brake axles (vs. the 1 it came with) added some to the overall cost. Mine doesn't have some of the things you mention, but I did get extra d-rings installed (6), a spare, recessed tie-downs (6), etc. all built to my specs. In my gut, at least, I can't see where adding the other stuff (the ramps you mention, 6000# axles, stake pockets, etc.) should add $1500 to the cost. (I could see the frame, if 1/4" thick box steel, could add some to the cost though.)
Here's a <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.trailersforless.com/and_dump_EQ7185T_trailers.html>link</A> with a trailer that sounds kindof like the one you describe. Not sure what they are asking for it, but it might be interesting to see what prices you can get over the Internet for "equivalent" trailers - then you could take it back to your local guy and say - "I'd much rather buy local - what can you do since I can get the same thing for $xxxx if I order it." Just an idea.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
