Advice on Fill

   / Advice on Fill #1  

MapleOak

New member
Joined
Apr 6, 2009
Messages
6
Hello,

I have about 1000-2000 yards of fill to remove/transfer. Some will go into my yard, but I think I will have a bit left over. The fill is mainly dirt(?), some clay, and lots and lots of round rock (4ft down to 3/4 inches). I would like to screen it because the fill does make a good base for a lawn... (I have screened some with a homemade screen).
I am coming to the realization I will have to hire someone... can someone give me advice as to what I should ask for and what something like this could cost... any info would be great

I'm new to the site... what I have read there always seems to be an answer
 
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   / Advice on Fill #2  
Welcome to TBN.

You didn't say where you were, which may or may not help with this. I'm not the type of contractor that you are looking for, but I have hired contractors for various projects and can offer a few things that you can look for.

First, ask around to see if there is somebody that others will recomend. A little footwork on your part may save you thousands of dollars and avoid allot of frustration. Word of mouth is always the very best way to find those who do good work and leave their clients so happy with them that they will recomened him to others.

I always tell others and try to do this myself, talk to at least five people before hiring anybody. What usually happens is the first person you talk to sounds great and you decide to go for it right then and there. Make it a point to talk to five and not hire anybody until you have talked to all five. More is better, but there is a point that you are wasting your time to. It's up to you to decide when that is.

Put everything in writing. While there are plenty of honest, hard working heavy equipment operators, there are also allot of thieves out there. Some will work hourly, others will bid the entire job. Either way, there are ways to take advantage of you. I like hourly if I can keep an eye on them and make sure it's agreed that I'm paying for hours that the equipment is worked. Don't let them try to do repairs or maintenance on the clock. Coffee before starting is on their time, not yours. Write down what time the engine starts and when they shut it down. Too often I've seen them guessing at when they got started and about how many hours they worked that day. Keep notes and let them know you are keeping notes. Nothing like a document to keep everyone honest.

If you get it bid on for the total job, be specific of what you want done and how you want it done. Be sure to include deadlines. Don't assume that they will clean up after themselves, or even make it look pretty. That needs to be in the contract.

Whatever you do, make sure that you don't pay upfront money and that you don't pay them off until the job is done. Hold back enough to keep them honest and hungry to do it right. Some people are pros at sob stories. It's their problem and you should never listen to their stories. It may be true, but usually it's just a story that they are very good at telling. Don't give out any money until it's due. I like to pay after a pre arranged part of the job is completed. It might be as small as getting the equpment on site, to as big as the last ton of gravel being graded out. Just be sure to have it in writing before anything starts.

Price will depend on how big a machine is used and how many machines are used. More horse power means more money, but it also means the job will be done faster. I would always hire as much power as possible. While a small machine can get the job done, a bigger one can do it three to four times faster. Sometimes more. If you can pay twice as much per hour for a bigger machine and get the work done three times faster, the bigger machine is going to be cheaper.

If you cannot find anybody by word of mouth, then be sure to ask for and to check refrences. I have pages of refrences that I have available for clients. I haven't given any out in years, but I still have them for those who might ask. It's also my contact list that I keep so, eveyone that hires me is on my list, and that's the list I give out if asked for. If they don't have refrences, run away. It doesn't matter how cheap they say they are, it's not worth it. There are a dozen ways to be taken advantage of, and those who are dishonest will do it without a second thought. Some are just evil and think it's their right, others are clueless and will never realize the pain the cause others by their disorganization, incompentence and laziness.

Good luck and keep asking questions.

Eddie
 
   / Advice on Fill #3  
Eddie has some very good advice. May I add a few additional thoughts. In Florida, there is a web site called "Angies List", this is a referral service that cannot be joined by any person in business no matter of their size, years or success. This is a list that is generated by verified customers who nominate licensed contractors and companies that have performed services for them with quality results. This list or one similar may be in your area. Make sure who you hire is licensed, bonded and insured. Verify that all of these items are true, current and in the scope of work that they are to be performed for you. Do call the BBB to see if there is any record of problems by the company, especially if there are any unresolved instances. If you don't need all of the dirt or rock that you have, you may be able to barter partial labor for materials. Customer referral lists from contractors can be a wonderfull asset, but do you think the person looking for work is going to have unsatisfied customers on their list? Do you want to verify the work quality, when and who actually performed it? That picture might be someone elses work. Check trade membership affiliations, license accreditation courses completed and passed that are required for ongoing education and training to keep their license in force as required. In Florida our codes are of the strictest standards in the country. (Hurricanes and a lot of insurance company lobbyists). Every project over $500.00 is inspected here. Ridiculous in the most part. Permits to remove a tree from your own property. My suggestions may be overkill for your project to a lot of people, but maybe they will help some one else in the future on their situation. Many years in business after college I have seen and been around situations that most people would never believe. Monday morning on the start of a multi million $ project," My name is George and this is a shovel" to the PE. "Congratulations, you are the 25th to 30th floor supervisor."
 
   / Advice on Fill #4  
If you go hourly, I'd suggest you also personally inspect the hour meter when the machine starts at the beginning of the work day, and at the end of the work day. If you see that machine idling and doing nothing for an unreasonable period of time (define unreasonable), then it's time to question the operator why they are doing this. Obviously in cold weather it will make sense to keep the engine running.

Remember rental companies read the hour meter when they check a machine out and back in.

Overall I'd say Eddie has provided a wealth of good advice.
 
   / Advice on Fill #5  
Welcome to the forum. Others have covered the general list of "what to look for" when hiring a contractor. Sounds like most of them have the luxury of choosing from a large number of local excavation contractors. Not everywhere is like that and it is costly to have heavy equipment moved in from a distance, if you can find someone who will for relatively small job like yours.

What type of equipment you need to look for depends on the situation. If you are moving the dirt a short distance a dozer or track loader may be able to do it. If a longer distance then dump trucks will be needed as well. There isn't much soil screening done around here so I don't know what the options are for that. Another possibility is after your yard soil is rough graded and the largest rocks removed, have the area worked by a power rake, Harley rake. They do a great job of prepping for grass and removing smaller rock.

MarkV
 
   / Advice on Fill #6  
Hello,

The fill is mainly dirt(?), some clay, and lots and lots of round rock (4ft down to 3/4 inches). I would like to screen it because the fill does make a good base for a lawn... (I have screened some with a homemade screen).

Did you really mean 4 feet? Wow! I don't think that's a screening job. If you meant 4 inches down to 3/4 in. then that's a good screening job. In my opinion, if you have 4 ft rocks, you need a crusher instead of a screener. Or, perhaps you only have a few 4 ft rocks and want those moved around for landscaping purposes. Also, an estimation of 1000 to 2000 cu yd is a big range. How are you calculating? Is this one of those jobs that may end up being much bigger than your think? :confused:

Welcome to TBN!:) Please tell us a little more about this project. I'm fascinated by your description so far.
 
   / Advice on Fill #7  
from your description (round rocks 3/4"-4')...it sounds like glacial till ? where are you located?

if you want to do some of your own sieving...check with any rock quaries in your area...rock crushers use different sized sieves to grade (size) gravel...

gravel sieves look similar to expanded metal...crusher operators replace the sieves quite often to maintain quality control and they often can be had for free or very little...the sieves tend to be harder steel than common expanded metal and are sometimes brittle but are still usable for grading smaller batches of fill...
 
   / Advice on Fill #8  
the other question is were is the fill coming from.

generally speaking soil conditions vary over depth. Which is to say if your taking off 3' off 5 acres it should roughly be all the same. but if your takeing off the top of a hill, some 35' off an half acre, youll likely see a large change in soil conditions.

this can adversely affect the bids to move the material. If your serious about the job (and expect to be removing a significant depth of material) i would strongly suggest soil boreings to determine what kind of material youll be dealing with from start to finish.
 
   / Advice on Fill
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Eddie
Thanks for the input/advice... I am actually in this predicament because I didn't do this when I first built my house... I had very little in writing, and nothing on the hardscaping... lesson learned
 
   / Advice on Fill
  • Thread Starter
#10  
/pine,

That is exactly what I have... glacial till... all located in the great state of Maine. I have done some of the sieving myself with my L3400 and a homemade screen made out of expanded steel on a wood frame... I have moved a lot of dirt, but this is really rough on my machine and in three years I have only made a small dent. Plus I am destroying the screen.
 

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