Advice on electric golf carts

[SPYDERLK]

Hi Steve. Ill have to discover how to do this since I am computer challenged. However, I know I could talk you thru it. Most important - you must have a digital voltmeter as a test and learning aid. HF sells a cheapie that is plenty good. It is # 90899-2JPB. The suffix designates the special catalog price of $4.99, good til May 1. I have one just like it - 2yrs no problems.
Larry

 

[StevenPaul]

Hello Larry,
Thanks for the reply and the offer to help. I'm a HF junkie at times so I do have a couple of voltmeters, not the swiftest on using them, in fact, I've blown a couple due to "hmmmm, I wonder if this is how its supposed to go...kapow!" melted tips and blown voltmeter circuit boards...but ain't HF return policy the greatest. I can pretty much understand what you've written in previous post yet I'd feel a lot better if I had a visual. I'm really concerned about the using 2 batteries and the overall effect it will have on them. I've checked out reducers and converters and they are a bit pricey for my budget on this project. I've noticed what I think to be a couple of circuit breakers on it and I'm not sure what their used for. Would it help if I took some pictures of them so you can see the set up?

thanks again,
Steve

 

[SPYDERLK]

Steve, sounds like youre sometimes using the R or I scale to check for volts. Volt scales are the only ones you can use with abandon. Yes, post a picture of what youve got and Ill see what I can decipher.
Larry

 

[StevenPaul]

Ok Larry, here it goes with the pictures, the first few are of the items themselves and what I'm guessing they are, the last one is where everything is positioned. If you need more or better pictures let me know and I'll re-take some better ones.

thanks,
Steve

 

[SPYDERLK]

Im not sure what all those components are. Id really have to know the specific cart or be there to see exactly where power comes and goes to figure it out. I imagine they are all overcurrent protection - fuses.
The last picture is most useful. I am having trouble seeing both ends of the string. One is at ~5:00 and is a neg, right? Where is the other end? Hidden?
Larry

 

[StevenPaul]

here are a couple more picture that hopefully help, the wire you spotted is actually the postive start of the string. I've taken a picture from the other side. The other picture is of the foot switch(labeled wrong in the picture), solenoid, and the possible overprotection thingamajig. As embarrassing as it is, it was wired up somehow when I got it but I "unwired" a bunch of it and can't remember where that particular thing was wired too as with the other two items. The cart is running great but I've got a feeling that these other items were used for some kind of accessories or something. No accessories were working or completely hooked up when I got it. All it basically had was broken tail light and horn, no front light. I'm trying to figure out why 3 of them and why the different sizes, etc. Let me know if you need more info.

thanks again

 

[StevenPaul]

oh yeah, the positive start is going to #2 position on the F/R switch and the negative is going to the solenoid if that helps any.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Weird. Black is positive - counter convention on Batt color code hookup.
As good as u are with a camera u gotta remember to take pictures before disconnecting. The item u have circled looks like a Temperature actuated switch. is it attached to something that might get hot? Typically, the way carts work in my experience is that the IGN enables the throttle, the throttle enables the solenloid and the controller. As u push the pedal, the solenoid switch closes, connecting to the motor. as u push further the controller is signaled to feed power thru the solenoid to the motor in proportion to the amt of pedal push. The controller is a solid state device and could warm or even get hot. It is usually attached to a finned heat sink to keep it from overheating as u climb a hill. See if u can find some evidence of this rationale in your setup. - - We dont need to fool with any of this circuitry for the accessories.
First, determine what voltage the accessories u want are meant to operate on. i imagine this will be 12,24, or 36. Im guessing it will say on them somewhere. - - - actually 1st I think u will want V gauges. I got mine from Marlin P Jones. 800-6526733, item#5332ME. They are 2-1/8W x 1-7/8H 15V meters at $7 ea. I got 3 and hooked them up such that each measured the output of 2 of the 6 batts in the string. This is much better that 1 gauge measuring all, but not quite as good as individually measuring each batt. A good compromise if you cant afford room for six gauges-who can? . I recommend this first - then on to accessories. Let me know how u want to proceed.
larry

 

[StevenPaul]

I can't believe I just wrote a whole page of stuff, went to upload the diagram and it tells me I'm not logged in, sheeesh! Ok, so here we go again, condensed version of what I just wrote;

wires will be switched to right colors;
ordered the 3 gauges, thanks for the tip and website;
wiring diagram is attached to this post, this is how I wired everything;
the circuit breaker circled is what I tried with a new light switch and nothing happened;
the other two items aren't on the diagram, therefore I'm even more confused despite having it wired like the diagram;
I know very very little of 36V systems and I'm a little leary of blowin something up or destroying one or more of the batteries. I'd like to get it right the first time if at all possible.

I would like to start buying some accessories like a cheap set of front and rear lights, cheap radio/speakers, heater/fan, new horn, possibly a new wiring harness or build my own, etc. The cart is going to be used for just cartin' around our "bumpy" farm and hauling feed and stuff to the animals so I don't want to go all out on the accessories, just something the wife and I can enjoy with no worries. Any ideas on what kind or where I can find some of this things at a reasonable price?

I do have a charger also and it works fine too and I'm still kickin myself about not taking those pictures.

thanks,
Steve

 

[andrewj]

Eddie: I spent 2500 on a 04 PDS ez go cart. then someone gave me a 96 gas ez go, which I promptly repaired, and now runs like a champ.

get ez go. more replacement parts, more people have them, more aftermarket parts. steel frame so you can weld to it.

Get gas. I know you will scratchyour head at this - my wife loves her electric cart. no smell, quiet, smooth, powerful enough to tote her and all the kids around. But she forgets to charge it...forgets to make sure no acid is leaking out...she wants larger 22 inch tires but doesn't wantto shell out the money for a elec. motor capable of generating torque for large tires.

My gas cart pulls a utility trailor full of tools ALL THE TIME. NEVER been stuck in dry dirt. stuck in mud all the time, but with stock golf course tires, and no lift.

The lift makes sure you don't hang up on a stump or rock, or hit the side on a hill, just gets you good clearance.

these things can be modded easily to go WAY faster than you need to go...from 25 to 50 mph......I drive below 6 mph most of the time. I just creep along in the orchard, pulling the wagon.

So get Ez go, rethink the electric thing, and you will need a 6 inch lift for clearance and bigger tires for traction.

and visit buggiesunlimited.com and go to the forums to learn more than you want to know.

getting a golf cart cured my fever for a gator.

 

[grizer]

Eddie, I've kept up with your work and planning since the start, good job! You have overcome several things by logic and hard work.

NOW, Golf carts. For least problems, least money spent, most use and long life. There are good posts above with good advice.

1. EZGO, 36 volt. no big tires, no lift kit, plain jane, best bet in long run, will climb hills and pull carts very well.
2. Battery condition guage, to tell you when to turn around and start home.
3. Sun top or shade, windshield and vinyl cab if needed in winter.
4. As stated in posts, wash with soda and keep batteries filled with distilled water. Keep terminals clean and repaired, larger wire is good.
5. Now to what is best for batteries, The nearer full charge you can keep a battery will give the best life. A battery that is partly discharged, will sulphate more, the longer it sits, the harder and longer you have charge it to bring it back to full charge because of sulphation. This is true for deep cycle and regular. Keep automatic charger plugged in at night or when not in use. A good automatic charger will tell you when you need to replace batteries, it will come back on often and it will be hard to keep water in batteries. All batteries will need to be changed at one time, period.
6. A 36 volt EZGO with fresh fully charged batteries will go almost 20 miles.
7. Any added accesseries cost performance and run time.

 

[TOMMYHPX4X4]

can't you get a pully and mount it on the drive shaft and then go to a auto salvage yard and pickup a atlernator i seen some really small ones about the size of a soft ball . but anyway if you put a big pulley on the drive shaft and the smallest pulley you can find on the alternator it would probably turn fast enogh to charge the single battery just for the accessories. a pulley that would be good is one off the rear end of a riding mower it's about 10 inches o.d. maybe a little smaller but you could commit one battery to just the accssories and have a on board charger. and when you don't need your accessories just hook it to a isolator switch and have it running to your main battries .

 

[StevenPaul]

TOMMYHPX4X4,

Despite my very little knowledge of "how things work" on the side of watts, amps, voltage, solenoids, circuit breakers, and batteries in general, I was also thinkin or rather dreaming of the same kind of idea and I was wondering why the manufacturers don't come up with a system that has a constant recharge going to the batteries. My simple way of thinkin was to hook up a small inverter, get a small charger, hook it up like the regular charger and wa-la! constant charge and no worries with the accessories. But again, don't know the "how things work" and if would be feasible to do or if I'd blow something up that wasn't supposed to be blown up.

Steve

 

[SPYDERLK]

TOMMYHPX4X4,

Despite my very little knowledge of "how things work" on the side of watts, amps, voltage, solenoids, circuit breakers, and batteries in general, I was also thinkin or rather dreaming of the same kind of idea and I was wondering why the manufacturers don't come up with a system that has a constant recharge going to the batteries. My simple way of thinkin was to hook up a small inverter, get a small charger, hook it up like the regular charger and wa-la! constant charge and no worries with the accessories. But again, don't know the "how things work" and if would be feasible to do or if I'd blow something up that wasn't supposed to be blown up.

Steve

Not sure, but are you guys talking about charging your batteries using the electric motor run from your batterys to drive a generator? If so, think about it in terms of efficiencies and youll see the fallacy. At 100% you would use power from the batteries to generate the same amount of power to put back in. Greater than 100% would be wonderful, but doesnt exist. Same problem running an inverter from the batts to charge the batts.
Regenerative braking can be used if an electric vehicle is set up for it. This essentially turns you motor into a generator and charges batts when you push the brake pedal. That way you can get some of the energy back that is normally wasted by brakes. The battery charge lasts longer - so do the regular brakes. Its an expensive option, on only the best carts, I think.
Larry

 

[TOMMYHPX4X4]

no i'm talkin about puttin a pulley on the axle of the rear wheels and running a car alternator off of it to charge a battery to run lights or to put back some juice into the batteries that you are useing.if you use the right gear reduction you can spin the alternator fast enough to get a charge out of it . i have one on my hpx and it's chargeing two batteries .and just use the regular batteries for running the cart and what every is left over after the battery is charged you can switch it over to send the charge to your other main batteries.to me any finda charge going to them is better than no charge goin to them.it might give you an extra hour of ridin time???

 

[SPYDERLK]

TOMMY, rear wheels are driven by the motor which is driven by the battery. You are actually shortening your batt depletion time due to the losses in the charging system. You put more power into the charging system than you get out.

 

[darkday]

Yeah that wouldn't work unless you could find a way to have it disengage when the electric motor was running. Or if you used the regenerative braking like you mentioned and is used on some hybrid cars.

 

[js5020]

The power "created" by regen braking is minimal, not sufficent enough to matter, if it were manufacturers of electric equipment would have exploited, and perfected that, producing a unit that would not need charging. If memory serves me regen braking is more to do with counter emf in the motor than charging.

 

[grizer]

Takes about 4 or 5 horsepower to run a alternator, bad idea.

 

[TOMMYHPX4X4]

so you mean there is no solid rear axle on a cart? i was thinkin about the axle on the cart and charging the accessory barrery mainly.i know it wouldn't charge the main batteries but i think if the cart had a solid rear axle that you could mount a pulley on and you was to get the right gear reduction to spin the alternator to get the curent flow you could infact charge a battery(one battery) atleast.where theres a will theres a way.unless the cart doesn't have a solid rear axle then it would be a challenge. we have rigged up paddle wheels on barges so they would turn alternators to charge batteries. when the curent is flowing fast in the bayou and you have the paddle wheel down in the water it spins the alternator and charges the battery and runs a power inverter and gives us a/c voltage.it all has to do with the right gear reduction.