Advice needed on Spool End Float leak.

Luke'sScreenName · Jul 30, 2016

I have a Wood Equipment BH90-X with a slow leak from this part of the valve stack with the blue rag under it (the longest cylindrical part).

The drip is coming from the end of the cylinder closest to the ground. The end has no obvious adjustment point but has a clearly non-air-tight cover.

The parts diagram indicates this as "Repair Kit, Spool End Float" #1020080.

Messick's lists this as a $150 part! Before I spend that much I was hoping someone could explain was this part does. Maybe then I'd have some idea if this rebuild kit might fix the leak.

Why is it cylinder shaped? I assume by the name and location that it has to do with the down pressure float on the boom?

Luke'sScreenName · Jul 31, 2016

Anyone?

Leejohn · Jul 31, 2016

I think the kit you are looking at is the float repair. Look and see if a seal or o ring to seal the spool. It well go inside the valve body. Maybe this well help or get someone else to post.

oldnslo · Jul 31, 2016

Agree, looks like the extra length is for the flaot detent assembly. Only seal should be around the spool. The seal may be captive in a machined groove inside the end of the casting or sandwiched between the cover and end of the casting. Curious what $150 parts include.

Luke'sScreenName · Jul 31, 2016

oldnslo said:
Agree, looks like the extra length is for the flaot detent assembly. Only seal should be around the spool. The seal may be captive in a machined groove inside the end of the casting or sandwiched between the cover and end of the casting. Curious what $150 parts include.

The cover you're referring to is the cylindrical cover correct? The seal should be where that cylinder meets the valve block? Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

oldnslo · Jul 31, 2016

Luke'sScreenName said:
The cover you're referring to is the cylindrical cover correct? The seal should be where that cylinder meets the valve block? Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

Yes, I was referring to the cylindrical cover that bolts onto the valve body. Carefully loosen the screws that hold this cover on. It is possible that there could be some spring load on it. The attachment is an example of how the springs and seals are retained on this Husco valve. You can see how they are sandwiched between the cover and valve body.

Luke'sScreenName · Jul 31, 2016

oldnslo said:
Yes, I was referring to the cylindrical cover that bolts onto the valve body. Carefully loosen the screws that hold this cover on. It is possible that there could be some spring load on it. The attachment is an example of how the springs and seals are retained on this Husco valve. You can see how they are sandwiched between the cover and valve body.

That makes good sense. Thank you very much. I could not find a cutaway example like that. I'll take a picture of what I find.

LD1 · Aug 4, 2016

Usually the caps (or cans) are not sealed. Most times they even have a hole in the bottom to let the oil drip out.

There should be a seal that seals the spool shaft itself to the casting. The spool (which you can see on top where the controls hook to it), also extends out the bottom side in the same manner. Only on the bottom side, instead of having the control hooked to it, it has the return springs. In the case of the longer can, not only does it have spring returns, but also that float detent.

I would assume that the $150 kit includes new springs and detent balls. But that isnt your problem. None of that is your problem. The problem is the seals that seal the spool to the bore. When they leak, they just happen to leak inside the can.

In that pic that oldnslo posted, see the one that says combination o-ring/wiper spool seals? You got the same thing on the bottom. Just have to remove the can, and detent assembly/springs to be able to get to it.

Luke'sScreenName · Aug 4, 2016

Y'all are exactly right. I took the can off...

The o-ring sits up next to the valve casting when the cover is on.

The end of the spool has a center column and three smaller hole. This is what fell out...

?

The spring and larger ball bearing fit up inside the spool shaft. The three smaller balls fit in the three side holes. I assume the spring goes in first then the larger ball. The three smaller balls when pressed from the outside by a sliding collet hold compression on the spring upward. (collet may not be the correct term or spelling). This is the detent for the float?

The collet is pressed down in the can and I can't get it out. I does wiggle a little side to side so I think there is an o-ring seal on the bottom side I can't see. I think perhaps it is this seal that it leaking. What do y'all think?

Also, is there a trick to reassemble the ball/spring thing?

Regardless, I ordered the rebuild kit from my local dealer for $180. I chose to pay the premium in case I can't get it back together and need their help.

Luke'sScreenName · Aug 4, 2016

Luke'sScreenName said:
Y'all are exactly right. I took the can off...

View attachment 476553

The o-ring sits up next to the valve casting when the cover is on.

The end of the spool has a center column and three smaller hole. This is what fell out...

View attachment 476554?

The spring and larger ball bearing fit up inside the spool shaft. The three smaller balls fit in the three side holes. I assume the spring goes in first then the larger ball. The three smaller balls when pressed from the outside by a sliding collet hold compression on the spring upward. (collet may not be the correct term or spelling). This is the detent for the float?

The collet is pressed down in the can and I can't get it out. I does wiggle a little side to side so I think there is an o-ring seal on the bottom side I can't see. I think perhaps it is this seal that it leaking. What do y'all think?

Also, is there a trick to reassemble the ball/spring thing?

Regardless, I ordered the rebuild kit from my local dealer for $180. I chose to pay the premium in case I can't get it back together and need their help.

I hope I don't have to take the swing cylinder off just below to have enough access. That would stink.

LD1 · Aug 4, 2016

Gravity and limited access below suck when trying g to work on that. Just had to take the can and return spring off the bottom of the curl on my Ford 5500. Impossible to do without unbolting the valve and prying it a little. But didn't want to go through the 2 hour process of removing all the hoses and hard lines. There are about 10 of them and no room to work. I got it to flex just enoigh to get it done

Luke'sScreenName · Aug 4, 2016

LD1 said:
Gravity and limited access below suck when trying g to work on that. Just had to take the can and return spring off the bottom of the curl on my Ford 5500. Impossible to do without unbolting the valve and prying it a little. But didn't want to go through the 2 hour process of removing all the hoses and hard lines. There are about 10 of them and no room to work. I got it to flex just enoigh to get it done

Uggh.
Is collet the right word and does it make sense to have a seal that low?

oldnslo · Aug 4, 2016

Luke'sScreenName said:
Uggh.
Is collet the right word and does it make sense to have a seal that low?

Not sure about the terminology of "collet" but I would be surprised if there was seal in that area. Possible but not likely. Springs and balls are the detent items and can be a challenge to hold in place during assembly. I find that a little grease will help hold the balls in place.

Did the O-ring seem hard or damaged?

Luke'sScreenName · Aug 4, 2016

The o-ring feels ok to me but I can't see one side and the entire spool has to be pulled out the bottom to get it off. Hopefully the Woods Rebuild kit has some directions.

oldnslo · Aug 4, 2016

I suspect you have to remove the centering spring from the end of the spool Vs pulling the entire spool to change that O-ring. Instructions Real Men don't read instructions:laughing:

At least I am accused of that on a regular basis...

Luke'sScreenName · Aug 5, 2016

So this is what I got for $180...

No instructions and NO seals. Now that I know how to take it apart I'll take it off and try to find a replacement. Ugh.

Leejohn · Aug 5, 2016

There is not a seal in the float. As said before the seal has to seal spool.The spool has to come out to put a new one in. When you said you ordered a new float assy. I thought you didn't need to at that time. For no more then I use float for a $180.00 I could just hold it in float by hand.