Advanced framming

   / Advanced framming #1  

indebt

Bronze Member
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
74
Location
Clarksburg West Virginia
Has anybody used advanced framming technique and by this i mean 24inch on center for the floor ,wall,and roof truss. This is becomming popular but does it work in the real world?
Also has anybody used the blue foam board for external wall sheathing ? all coments appreciated. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Advanced framming #2  
Done both, works fine. When using 2X6 studs when doing on 24 inch centers. Have used the blue foam under t-11 siding and vinyl as well.
Ben
 
   / Advanced framming #3  
I didn't know "24-inch oc" was 'advanced' framing, but certainly it is done. More chance of wavy walls that way, IMO.

Also, with 24" stud space, blue board for sheathing, and vinyl for siding, it wouldn't take much (one sharp utility knife) for an intruder to quickly and quietly cut his way into a home (easier than breaking glass or risking alarmed doors and windows). Just cut the vinyl siding, the blue foam board, remove the insulation (that part I wouldn't like because it makes me itch), and the ½" drywall, and there one has a ready-made door. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
   / Advanced framming #4  
Just finished hanging sheetrock on phase II of my basement finishing project. The exterior walls were all studded and insulated by the builder (code) on 24 inch centers. All the interior walls I did myself on 16 inch centers. To do it over again I would have specified 16 inch centers on the exterior walls too. The inevitable kinks and bows in the studs are much more noticable with the wider spacing. Maybe if you use engineered studs it would be as good or better but I wouldn't do a house with it in standard lumber /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Advanced framming #5  
Walls is no problem 24" OC if they are 2x6 and properly blocked. Trusses too - if properly decked with clips, etc, provided they are designed for 24" OC.

Floors you gotta watch. I believe it requires very special flooring treatment (maybe double 3/4" ply glued) to avoid bounce.

Blue foam is ok for sheeting, as long as you like nail pops on the drywall. Round here, thats all they use on houses with brick veneer. The houses groan and creek under a strong wind.

Meeting code MINIMUM should not be confused with quality building. I believe in exterior sheathing with OSB or ply. Right now sheathing with OSB will add something like C $500 to the materials cost to a 1000 square foot house. Cheap, if you ask me.

I wouldn't be tempted to go 24" on a floor, just because 'twould be hard to get the bounce out.
 
   / Advanced framming #6  
I would agree that setting the floor joists or wall studs 24" instead of 16" is a minimal savings.
I am in the process of building now. I wish that I had set my roof trusses 16" oc instead of 24". Would have cost me about $600, the upside is a better roof to walk on, better roof load, better wind load and the drywall will hang better underneath.

-dave
 
   / Advanced framming #7  
....one other thing about the blue foam board sheathing. It will lose its R-Value over time, typically 10-15 years.

-dave
 
   / Advanced framming #8  
Blue foam board has NO shear strength. At a minium use plywood at the corners, OSB works but has less strength than plywood. I see this alot around here but I don't call it "advanced framing" just cheap. For the best in home construction use SIPS -structural insulated panels. Somewhat more expensive, goes up fast, tighter and better insulated house.

Vernon
 
   / Advanced framming #9  
The technical term for bounce as one poster mentioned is deflection. If you have too much deflection in a floor you run the risk of seeing reflection cracking show up in floor tile later. The cracks will mirror the joints in the underlayment. I had a house where the builder put the floor joists on 18" centers instead of 16". Given the size of the joists, that was enough to cause excessive deflection which destroyed several vinyl floors in the kitchen over the years. I'd be real leary of 24" joist spacing unless you use heavier joists and possibly thicker plywood underlayment to give you the rigidity you need to prevent future problems.
 
   / Advanced framming #10  
Anything is possible but there are adjustments you need to make with the system you want to use.

When we built last year we had 16" OC walls done 2x6. This allowed the builder to use 3/8" OSB outside for walls.

He also did 16" OC flooring and used 3/4" advantech flooring glued with liquid nails and nails.

We did 24" OC trusses but instead of using 1/2" plywood we again went with 5/8" plywood on the roof for strength. I thought we were going to go with 16" OC on the roof myself but it's not so important IMO with the roof as long as you go with a stronger plywood

If you can I would recommend you go with 16 OC studs and 3/8" OSB outside and use the Tyvek wrap for an outside underlayment under the siding.

I have no waving as is mentioned here as an concern but again I think you need to use 1/2" drywall.
 

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