Adding keyed circuit to 5210 ignition switch

[bitternut]

I have added a ANBO grapple to my John Deere 5210 front end loader using a Fasse diverter valve. I was advised to use a circuit that is only on when the tractor ignition is on. I pulled the switch and found two open spots that have power only with key on and one that had power on all the time. I tapped into one that functioned with the key on and the grapple works fine.

My problem is that I could not get a good solid connection that will be permanent. There is what appears to be a metal socket that should be crimped onto my wire but I could not get it to pull out. There is also the red plastic pieces that I think may be locks to retain the wire connection. They wiggle but did not pull out. I did not want to break anything so I did not pull hard. Has anyone ever had one of these ignition switches apart and know how you can tap into them?

Here is a picture of the back of the ignition switch and the mounted grapple.

 

[JD5210]

I would suggest you use the fuse box under the dash. Please see attachment.

The bottom right (seating on the tractor) slot should be empty. This fuse/slot is hot Only when the key is on. You can run a wire to it an you will find the bottom slot that the fuse goes into is empty and the top has a hot lead only active when the key is on. What I did (for additional lights) was run a wire in solder it to one tab of the fuse and plugged it in. This allows you to select the size of fuse to use based on the grappler. The connector is part number 57M7508.

If any of this does not make sense post back and I will give another shot at it.

 

[bitternut]

Thanks for the reply. I saw that fuse slot and thought about using it originally but the valve came with a wiring harness and an inline fuse. My local NAPA store had small connectors that slip right into the front side of the fuse slot that I picked up but decided to use the harness. Not sure why there are empty slots on the back of the ignition switch or which is the preferred way. For sure it will require the 10 amp fuse.
Which is the best source for power, the fuse block or the switch back.

 

[JD5210]

I had to replace the cluster on my 5210 tractor and I had to change a wire in the back of the ignition switch to make it work. So that is one use for the empty slots.

My suggestion is to use the fuse box, I see no problem with having more than 1 fuse on a circuit. The grapple could draw more amps, then the ignition switch can handle.

 

[bitternut]

I think your suggestion is the right way to go and actually would be the easiest to accomplish since I already have the tabs for connecting to the fuse slot. Your chart says that the slot is rated for 20 amp so it is wired in excess of the 10 amps needed. There is a good bolt located very close that will serve as a ground.

 

[JD5210]

Please consider letting us know how it works out. I would be interested in knowing where you place the diverter and the control switch. I have considered putting one on my tractor.

 

[bitternut]

Well I finally got the grapple install finished up and rubbed some of that green paint off in my woods. I ended up doing as JD5210 suggested and used the empty fuse slot for electric power. The Fasse valve that came with my grapple is supplied with a wiring harness for power and a switch that gets wire tied to the tractor loader control lever. The harness is supplied with an inline 10 amp automotive type fuse holder and a ground wire. I attached a connector from NAPA mentioned above to another 10 amp fuse and plugged it in. I used one of the two mountings bolts seen in the picture of the fuse block for my ground connection. The selector valve was mounted on the inside right loader upright frame by drilling and tapping two 5/16 holes in the frame. All the wiring was placed in split wire loom for protection and zip tied to the underside of tractor where it is protected. The hoses are all protected on the inner side of the right loader arm along side of the original hydraulic lines. Right now they are zip tied to the original lines but I plan on adding some hose clamps in the future and eliminate the zips. The 6 foot lines that came with the grapple kind of hang near danger so I am planning on adding hose guard sleeves. Not quite sure what I can do to keep them out of harms way as you need some lack in the lines for the grapple movement.

I can say that the grapple worked quite well for ripping out clumps of autumn olive, buckthorn, and multiflora rose. Never had to leave the tractor seat. I will post some final pictures of the install after my next trip to my woods.