Ballast Adding Front-End Weights to M-series

[Glowplug]

I was wondering if there is a way to add front-end weights to an m-series tractor that has a front-end loader. As you may know from my thread, "Orange Tractor, Green Grass" I had removed the front-end loader to have more maneuverability and better visualization while mowing. But now if I start really quickly I pop a wheelie!! And the mower is a pull type mower, it is not a 3ph lift type. I would love to eventually get a 7' rotary cutter 3ph type for more trim work. But I'm afraid if I did, and had the FEL removed, I'd be riding around with the front wheels in the air with the mower lifted. There is an option of front-end suitcase weights on the tractor but I've only seen it on models without a loader. On all models with the loader there is a grill guard in place. Any words of wisdom from the TBN communitiy would be appreciated.

 

[RoyJackson]

"But now if I start really quickly I pop a wheelie!!"

There's an old joke:

"Doctor, My arm hurts when I do this" (make a motion with his arm)..."can you help me?"
"Well, Mr.Smith...if you arm hurts when you do this" (makes the same motion as the patient, Mr Smith)...I suggest you don't do it..."

So don't start as quickly. Start a bit more smoothly by either feathering the clutch (if a manual) or a lighter foot on the hydro peddle.
If I'm starting up a hill (sans FEL), I'll lower the RPM to a fast idle to start, then move the hand throttle to PTO RPM smoothly as soon as I'm in motion. It'll take some practice. This is necessary since I do mow a rather steep embankment (Drive up and reverse down). I don't have any suitcase weights yet either. However, my 790 does have the grill guard and weight bracket installed.
I looked at the picture of your tractor (on the link you so thoughtfully provided). I reckon you'll have to call your dealer to see if a weight bracket is available for your tractor. Or, a local welding/fabrication shop can manufacture one for you (suggest you have at least one suitcase weight available for the fab shop). Be advised this bracket would be quite heavy in order to take the weght of the suitcase weights. It will be a bear to remove and reinstall (buy a cheap roll around engine hoist for this task).

However, the solution may end up being just a change (as described above) in your starting technique.

My cutter (60" unit), when raised, really does lighten the front end. To make matters worse, I have to drive up a mild slope (5°-10°) when I'm returning from the field. I tow the cutter (top link loose or disconnected...PTO off) when I go up this slope. I'll raise the 3PH to keep the forward end of the cutter from digging in and the tail wheel carries some of the weight. This method may help you as well.

 

[Glowplug]

"But now if I start really quickly I pop a wheelie!!"

There's an old joke:

"Doctor, My arm hurts when I do this" (make a motion with his arm)..."can you help me?"
"Well, Mr.Smith...if you arm hurts when you do this" (makes the same motion as the patient, Mr Smith)...I suggest you don't do it..."

So don't start as quickly. Start a bit more smoothly by either feathering the clutch. . . .

That's basically what I started doing. I just thought maybe there was another option. Maybe safer? Thanks for the advice about the grill guard. I'll ask my dealer about it tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[m7040]

for situations where the front is light I would just keep the bucket on. If you want that extra clearance without the bucket when you mowe around fences etc I would ask the dealer for a weight bracket to accomodate CI suitcase weights. Just attended an auction where about 10 Case suitcase weights were sold for about 50 dollars a piece.

 

[Glowplug]

for situations where the front is light I would just keep the bucket on. If you want that extra clearance without the bucket when you mowe around fences etc I would ask the dealer for a weight bracket to accomodate CI suitcase weights. Just attended an auction where about 10 Case suitcase weights were sold for about 50 dollars a piece.

I do like the manueverabillity, visualization, and clearance without the loader when mowing. But it's really not a major ordeal. I still have plenty of traction on the rears. I may ask the dealer about it for what it's worth. I guess if I got a 3ph cutter I could make sure to use the loader when mowing with it. Do you remove your loader when mowing with your batwing finish mower?

 

[m7040]

Yes I remove the bucket only when mowing to ease the load on the front wheels. I never remove the loader arms it does not bother me to have them during mowing. The bucket is easy to drop. Found that to make the hydraulics easier to disconnect and reconnect that when uncoupling make the grapple close all the way under power and then stop the engine and turn ignition to on in order to manipulate the buttons for the 3RD function valve to neutralize the pressure. Even doing this it still takes some effort to get the couplings reconnected. If I am not careful about this what can happen is that there may be some residual pressure in the grapple cylinder from gravity of the grapple.

 

[Glowplug]

That's exactly the way I do it when dropping my grapple. It IS a little challenging to get it reconnected. But I have the hydraulic multi-coupler for the entire loader hydraulics so that hooking up the hydraulics to the loader arms is very easy. Just slide the plate on that contains all four hoses and lock it in place with a lever. On Saturday I did some mowing without the bucket but with the loader arms on. On Sunday (yesterday) I mowed without the entire loader. It is a very different experience. I have less tendency to knock things down with the loader removed! I've got a couple more acres to mow. Afterwards I will most likely put the loader back on.

 

[thunderworks]

Glowpulg and M7040:

I have had problems reattaching my grapple due to residual presure in the system but discovered a little trick that helps me . . . I keep a 3/8 dowel in the toolbox and give the protruding stud in the female coupler a little tap with the dowel to release some oil and pressure. I can also cover the bearing in the male half of the coupler with a rag and use a plastic mallet to release oil and relieve pressure on that hose . . . then the couplers can go together easily.

Didn't mean to hyjack this tread, but you both commented on difficulties reattaching your grapples.

 

[talltale]

I know the manual says not to, but I had the dealer fill my M5040 front wheels with Rimguard. My dealer said "Kubota just wants you to buy their weights" and "he has sold Kubotas for years with filled front tires and never had a problem." 40 hours of snow removal, grading, loader, and grapple work so far and the tractor is as steady as a rock.

 

[JeremyL]

After a few years of lousey front end control (and because I got some steeper land) and had the dealer spread the wheels, put fluid in the tires and added 200#s to the front. The dealer was surprised to find that there already was fluid in the front tires. I guess it was put there by my original dealer becase the MX5000 really needs the extra weight up front, especially since I am usually tooling around with a bushhog behind. I don't have a FEL so can't address the specifics of your case. This is my long-winded testimonial to the advantages of adding front weights. I was never in to wheelies.

 

[Stackwood]

Greetings MX5000 enthusiast. I too have one that I'm crazy about. I agree that taking the whole FEL off turns it into a different machine. We have several tiny paddocks and other tight places. Taking the FEL off makes an unbelievable difference in manuevorability. Plus, it's a lot less likely that my teenage girl's practice runs will turn into inadvertant search and destroy missions. Anyhow when I was shopping for a rotary cutter I heeded the manual's weight limit of 1000#, which put me in the light duty category if I wanted a 6' cutter. I ended up with a 6' King Kutter 3pt model and have been pleased with it. I've had no problems with a light front end, even on our challenging Tennessee hillside. I do have the rear tires filled and spread to max width. I also have 4wd, which makes all the difference on a slope.

Someone here once pointed out that sticking with a mower the same width as the tractor is a good bet. That has certainly worked for me.

How heavy is your cutter? That information could shed a lot of light on the subject.

Life is short and precious. Be safe and have a ball.

Stackwood

 

[Stackwood]

Just figured out that you've got an M7040. Well, I like ya anyway. That's a lot of tractor. I'd still like to know how your cutter's weight compares to the manual's max specs.

Cheers

Stackwood
MX5000, LA853 FEL

 

[Glowplug]

I have a Rhino Turbo 120. The specs and limitations in the manual for the M7040 refer to 3ph lift type cutters (ie Bush Hogs). I have a pull type cutter. It weighs about 2600#. If you strictly adhered to those specs for ANY mower you would obviously never be able to pull a batwing. I would LOVE to have a 7' lift type rotary cutter as well for more trimming. 84" would put it just as wide as the rears. I too have many small paddocks that create some tight turns. I am slowly trying to take all the intervening fencing out to make it all open pasture but it is very slow going.

 

[tydp]

We have Bush Hog brand grill gaurds on our M5400 and M9540. They are designed to work with Kubota brand suit case weights. They are heavier than the Kubota brand "fold down" type that came with the Kubota LA 1353 loader. We have a Bush Hog loader M446 on the M5400.

 

[Glowplug]

We have Bush Hog brand grill gaurds on our M5400 and M9540. They are designed to work with Kubota brand suit case weights. They are heavier than the Kubota brand "fold down" type that came with the Kubota LA 1353 loader. We have a Bush Hog loader M446 on the M5400.

Thanks. I'll have to look into it!