Adding electrical devices to tractor
- Thread starter i7win7
- Start date
ctgoldwing
Platinum Member
I believe that is incorrect. Would mean your house 'master circuit breaker' would = the sum of all your circuit breakers? I think not. One has 'almost' nothing to do with the other. Load and fuse size are different things.
WranglerX
Elite Member
We are talking dc power system not 120/240 volt AC power system, yes it's easy to assume the not all the devices will be on in house at one time and the "main" breaker can be less than sum total of all breakers...... But in this sort of system, if you have a work light and a back up camera and radio its really easy to have all devices on at same time and possibly exceed maximum draw of "master" fuse...
Besides fuses are there to protect the wiring not necessarily the device..... But if device fails (shorts) and current load (amperage) exceeds wire capacity (amperage rating), the fuse should operate to protect circuit....
Dale
OP
i7win7
Veteran Member
Thought this thread could use a wire ampacity chart for those who are DIYers
Marine Wire Size and Ampacity | West Marine
Marine Wire Size and Ampacity | West Marine
ning
Elite Member
You may want to measure directly how many amps your LED lights are pulling.
ctgoldwing
Platinum Member
lol, good exercise - mine were a tiny fraction of what they were advertised for.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Fuses and circuit breakers are not there to protect the equipment. (some equipment has its own internal protection)
They are to prevent the wire from melting and causing a fire!
They should be as close to the power source as physically possible.
If relays are used then 2 fuses are needed.
One on the control line* and the other on the circuit that the relay controls.
*control line is often already protected at source BUT be sure the control wire is equal or better than source wire size.
Note: there also exists automatic self re setting circuit breakers.
It is simple, circuit protection is 'weak link' that is inline where it won't create a fire hazard.
When it comes to fuses you also have 'slow blow' which simply means that they can handle a slight momentary surge. (like a motor start up.)
They are to prevent the wire from melting and causing a fire!
They should be as close to the power source as physically possible.
If relays are used then 2 fuses are needed.
One on the control line* and the other on the circuit that the relay controls.
*control line is often already protected at source BUT be sure the control wire is equal or better than source wire size.
Note: there also exists automatic self re setting circuit breakers.
It is simple, circuit protection is 'weak link' that is inline where it won't create a fire hazard.
When it comes to fuses you also have 'slow blow' which simply means that they can handle a slight momentary surge. (like a motor start up.)
senecak19
Silver Member
Lot's of great feedback here. I'm going to try my best to describe the configuration I'm intending to install. If you guys could let me know if I'm WAY OFF BASIS, I'd appreciate it.
- New Relay and Fuse Panel to be installed near the battery compartment.
- Looking at the amp chart someone posted, I believe I'll need something like 6 or 8ga wire running from the battery to a 40 amp fuse of some sort (never seen an inline one with wire that size... usually 12ga or less) to my relay. Then use the same 6 or 8ga wire from my relay to my fuse block.
- I'm going to reverse what the other gentleman did here and run a 12ga wire from the work light connector back to the battery compartment to turn the relay on. I hope 12ga is sufficient here. The work light connector itself is even less and I'm assuming the relay doesn't need a huge power wire to allow it to turn on and off.
- Once complete, I should be able to run all my lines to the battery compartment fuse panel for plug and play application. Simply install the appropriate fuse and connect to the block.
- New Relay and Fuse Panel to be installed near the battery compartment.
- Looking at the amp chart someone posted, I believe I'll need something like 6 or 8ga wire running from the battery to a 40 amp fuse of some sort (never seen an inline one with wire that size... usually 12ga or less) to my relay. Then use the same 6 or 8ga wire from my relay to my fuse block.
- I'm going to reverse what the other gentleman did here and run a 12ga wire from the work light connector back to the battery compartment to turn the relay on. I hope 12ga is sufficient here. The work light connector itself is even less and I'm assuming the relay doesn't need a huge power wire to allow it to turn on and off.
- Once complete, I should be able to run all my lines to the battery compartment fuse panel for plug and play application. Simply install the appropriate fuse and connect to the block.
LittleBill21
Veteran Member
something like this for the fuse
Amazon.com: 5?AMP 5?A DC 12V-24V Car Stereo Audio Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Inline Fuse Holder and Battery Cable Ends, Closed End Crimp Connectors (4 AWG to 3/8 AWG): Automotive
relays use very little power, 14-16 would be fine, i saw some confusing comments in here. you fuse the main wire at what the main WIRE is capable of carrying, not what the total load is, you size the panel and the wire and the fuse to what you need + some buffer, if you need 20 amps you design for 25 amps, so a 25 amp fuse a 25 amp rated wire, and a 25 amp rated fuse panel. if you need 40 you do the same thing etc.. you do need to calculate how much your going to use to design this.
oosik
Super Star Member
I can't speak to newer tractors. The Owner Manual for my new Taco Wagon( Ram 2500 Power Wagon) has a complete section speaking to adding electrical devices.
There are two basic cautions - improper electrical connection causing problems and extraneous RF causing problems.
The extraneous RF( radio frequency) situation has given me pause when considering adding a mobile Ham radio to the Taco Wagon.
There are two basic cautions - improper electrical connection causing problems and extraneous RF causing problems.
The extraneous RF( radio frequency) situation has given me pause when considering adding a mobile Ham radio to the Taco Wagon.