Quick Hitches A Couple Quick Hitch Questions

   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #1  

lostcause

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Mar 29, 2010
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Maine
Just used a quick hitch for the first time and it does seem to be a lot easier so I’m going to convert everything I can whether it was intended to work with that hitch or not.

I got this from a family member who got it on a 2R Deere but went to a cab tractor and that NH tractor has telescoping arms which he liked better. It came with one set of lower bushings which matched my tiller’s lower ears and thru pins and it seems that as long as the implement is relatively level it hooks up good. The hitch was painted black but green is bleeding through when it gets scratched so I’m pretty sure it was an iMatch originally.

First question: there is no location for the top hook where the top pin sits snugly in the hook. Since the top link doesn’t carry a load is it safe to assume it only needs to be deep enough not to tip out?

Second question: is there any creative way to hook a rotary mower to one of these? With that pivoting yoke on the top mount I see no way to make it work without the fear of bouncing out.

Last question: what’s the best (read: cheapest) way to get bushings? For cat1 pins the cheapest I found was around $120 for 5 sets that have the flared out ends on them. I think I saw cat2 ones for about half that? Anyone try making them? I thought about DOM tubing or even solid rod but between turning to 1-7/16” diameter and/or drilling it hardly seems cost effective. Any other suggestions? I have a rake, chipper, mortar mixer, trailer hitch adapter, wood splitter, rotary cutter, and the already mounted tiller. Still need to cast or build a ballast too, so several sets are needed. About half of my implements are homemade or modified so I don’t mind altering anything to help it work.
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #2  
Just a word of caution, I purchased a set of cheap bushings, the holes weren't drilled out completely making it a pain to get the pin drove in. I spent a just a little more money on the next two sets of bushings and they were drilled properly and the pins went in perfectly.

So far all my implements have fit in the hook just fine. Does your top link have a bushing on it? The box blade we have needed a bushing to fill up the gap in the hook.

I have not had my mower bounce out, but this is only the second season of using it.

Here is an adapter my dad has on his mower:
Speeco quick hitch adapter for use with Category I Hitch Attachments
 
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   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #3  
Would need a photo to answer your first question.

They make an adapter to connect mowers. You don't use the hook on those.

Easiest, cheapest way to bush the pins is regular cat 1 to 2 bushings topped with cat 2 to 3 bushings. Stick a standard 7/16" hitch pin in and you are good to go.
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #4  
The flex link on my LandPride rotary cutter wasn't installed right & kept coming out of the top hook when mowing. It worked fine with the top unhooked so I never bothered reconfiguring the mower correctly. I'd just flip the flex link into the hook at the end of the job so I could lift things if I needed it. It ran fine on the tail wheel & lift hooks mowing or traveling. Some people use chain instead of a toplink just fine on a rotary cutter. Just about anything strong enough to keep it connected will work, or nothing at all if you can deal with the tail wheel never coming off the ground.

I picked up some tube & pipe to make my own bushings after spending some time with the counter guy at the local steel shop. The kits from Northern took were $20 per set of bushings a couple years ago.

Making the impliments match the QH is the only way to get good value out of the QH. I have a King Kutter tiller that doesn't have enough clearance between the lift pins & the tiller frame if bushings are on. I just run it without bushings & it's been fine for years. A bit sloppy obviously, but nothing is wearing horribly. I have bushings on most other impliments though. If you are short on bushings, put them on things that move the least (like a ballast box) last.

I have had a box blade come loose from the top hook, pivot & jam hard against the tires once. It was barely in the top hook though. I wouldn't worry if it wasn't touching the bottom of the top hook. But I do worry now if it's close to the point it could bounce out due to sloppy bushings & lift hook locks.
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #5  
I have an 'older style' iMatch with the non-adjustable top hook. As BRMyers & TractorGuy say, there are adaptors available to extend the top of an implement so that fits in the 'hook' so that it won't bounce out.

I went one further, to ensure that the adaptor didn't 'pop out', and fashioned a "curb chain". I used a fence-gate chain with a drop/slot attachment (I hope I'm describing it properly). They're readily available, here in Australia. Should be in the US.
 

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   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #6  
Land Pride has a floating top link designed for this application,
it is quit simple just 2 plates with 2 holes each.
One set of holes in the plates will pin thru where your top link fastens to the quick hitch,
the other two holes will attach to your implement top link hookup.
When your implement is lifted the plates swing into a straight pull position,
when your implement is floating the plates are sized so that the link pin can drop down into the hooks open area.
Land Pride Manual No. 320-014M
https://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/320-014m.pdf

If you open the attached file from Land Pride it will make more sense then my explanation.
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #7  
I would check agri supply for bushings they were the cheapest i found.
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #8  
Just make you some out of good grade steel pipe, I did! Have lasted for many yrs!
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions #9  
I make all my own bushings on the lathe. Use whatever material is available (within reason) but always make them to the same diameter specifications. I simply reverse engineered a set of JD bushings and they work for everything.

Question #1, I don't fret if the top pin doesn't sit all the way in the bend of the hook. The lower pins carry all the weight so I just make sure that the top hook can't become disengaged when the quick hitch latches are resting on the tops of the implement pins.

Question #2 you probably need the "special" u-shaped link for to hook up the flex link of your rotary cutter.
 
   / A Couple Quick Hitch Questions
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Land Pride has a floating top link designed for this application,
it is quit simple just 2 plates with 2 holes each.
One set of holes in the plates will pin thru where your top link fastens to the quick hitch,
the other two holes will attach to your implement top link hookup.
When your implement is lifted the plates swing into a straight pull position,
when your implement is floating the plates are sized so that the link pin can drop down into the hooks open area.
Land Pride Manual No. 320-014M
https://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/320-014m.pdf

If you open the attached file from Land Pride it will make more sense then my explanation.

Thanks! Without the pictures in the manual I couldn't wrap my head around what was happening. Now it makes sense. I can make a couple plates up that will do that just fine.
 
 

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