A/C Leak stop... opinions and experience

[Dadnatron]

JD 5100e about 1300 hours out of warranty.

Last summer, I had to recharge the AC coolant and it seemed to work for the rest of the year. Of course, I didn't think about it until this weekend, when I was spraying and it was getting hot. Blower works, Compressor kicks in, but no cold air. I checked pressure and it was extremely low.

Off to the store, picked up some 'freon' and recharged it back to 'green'. It cooled off just fine, but within just a few minutes, it was right back to where it began.

So... I have a leak. I'd rather NOT take it all the way in to town and have to deal with the hassle if there is a likelihood that I can fix it.

I have never tried a STOP LEAK product on this tractor. I've used it on an old 4Runner I had, and as far as I can remember, it worked fine.

I've read many 'theories' on the net about how awful the A/C stop leak is... that it clogs up the system and basically ruins it all. But I understand the theory and why it 'might' work. However, I don't want to screw something up that will only cost me more money. If I have to have someone fix it, I will, but I don't want them saying I cost myself even MORE because of the stop leak attempt.

I'm not opposed to changing hoses/pipe/etc. I have NOT charged the system with a 'leak detector' and can certainly do so. Do you have any recommendations about a good version?

Basically... 1. does a leak stop hurt my tractor. I'd like experience here, not assumption. And 2. is a leak detector marker worth it? I've tried it on other vehicles at times, and never ONCE have I found the leak. 3. If JD 5100e's or other, have 'common A/C problems' that are owner fixable, where would you recommend I begin looking?

 

[RPW]

First thing is to find the leak. You can get the kit at many locations and consist of the dye, a blacklight and a pair of yellow glasses. Follow the instructions on the container and you'll also need a small amount of Freon if there's nothing in the system. Fix/replace broken part. Rent vacuum pump and gages. Pump down for 30 minutes. Shut gages off and pump. Wait 15 minutes. If gage that goes to the low side doesn't move (open that valve) then fill to correct amount of freon and continue to work. All in all the better way to half full time A/C and know that it's fixed right. Unless it's really old equipment it will have R134a which you can do.

 

[Dadnatron]

Thanks RPW...

After I thought about it... I understand about why I would pump it down.

 

[Wilco]

The only thing that belongs in your AC system is refrigerant....anything else is a contaminant. Spend the money and have it repaired by a professional. Why cant you have an AC guy come out and repair it onsite?

 

[YLee Kioti]

Stop leak as to have a higher viscosity in order to 'find' loss of pressure source and plug it up.
That difference of viscosity will interfere with the expansion orifice; thus restricting flow of gas and changing its flash point.

So the short summary posted above is spot on.

Or half and half. Get the leak detector kit find the leak and hire an A/C guy to fix it.

Either way hurry cause it be fixn to gets hot out there....yeah-ha....

oh wait I gots an open cab sigh.....

 

[JRobyn]

My old 87 Bronco II was converted to R-134. I changed ALL of the o-rings and a couple of the high pressure hoses when I converted. Now a few years later, it will hold most of a charge for a month or so, which has gotten leaky enough that I figured some of the UV dye would work great to find where the leak is. Compressor shaft seals is the logical problem. I can find ZERO evidence of the UV dye anywhere!!

I share your concern about using a "stop-leak" additive. Wouldn't do it.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

There are some really tight clearances in the AC compressors, like under 10 micron. I wouldn’t mess around with the leak stop. (I work at a large automotive AC compressor factory.)

 

[Tx Jim]

The only thing that belongs in your AC system is refrigerant....anything else is a contaminant. Spend the money and have it repaired by a professional. Why cant you have an AC guy come out and repair it onsite?

I agree AC stop leak is a big No-No but I've installed green dye in an ac system to locate a leak with no cooling problems.

 

[TractorGuy]

Another no on stop leak.

Last year I found an inexpensive electronic leak detector on ebay that works awesome. Fiddled around with dye and recharging for a couple of weeks prior. Was able to find the leaking hose down in a hole where I couldn't see with the electronic detector.

 

[Dadnatron]

I was at Harbor Freight last night, getting my favorite work gloves, and saw that they had a detector, and vacuum system for AC.

I understand the basis of the detector, but does it work better than the dye? I've never, personally, found a leak with dye, but I think I've only done it once or twice. I have never used a detector. I see the detectors on Amazon as well. Also, the 'same' appearing vacuum kit that HF stocks. The reviews on the HF kit were just like everything they sell. It was AWESOME or CRAP... depending on whether theirs leaked or not.