9n pto/lift

[toolmanbird]

hi yall,just bought a 9n.had a massey50(my ex sold the 50 for$50 the day of our divorce!! but thats another story)..it would appear i gotta lotta learning with my new baby..why do i have to cut the PTO on to lift my bushhog?!? its relly not much fun having stuff fly all over my barn when i have to lift the mower over my rain dam at the door(my NEW wife thinks it's a little funny tho..Assuming this is the way they all are,is there an aftermarket part to get around this problem?

 

[GPintheMitten]

The lift and the pto are engaged and disengaged together unfortunately.

When I had to lift the brush hog near the building or people, I would detach the pto shaft first. And keep people and animals far away from the brush hog.

Also, make sure you have an over-running clutch on your pto. Without it, the force of the brush hog spinning will drive your tractor forward, even with the drive clutch disengaged. It's very dangerous. The over-running clutch has a ratchet mechanism that lets it spin free.

You can get one from TSC or other farm/tractor suppliers and dealers. They cost about $75. Well worth it.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. the hydraulic pump is a belly pump in the rear center housing and is run via the pto shaft.

proper operation in the bar would be to unhook the mower pto shaft prior to starting tractor.. then engage hyds once started, to lift mower and go.. then when out of the barn, shut her down and connect up, and then go.

DO use an ORC... and make sure your shear bolt is the correct hardness ( softness? )

soundguy

 

[rankrank1]

Yep normal for a N.

Since you are learning, the 9N and 2N do not have positon control for the 3-point hitch either. In other words, the lift is either all the way up or all the way down with no ability to hold a postion inbetween.

You have 3 possible options to gain position control ability:
a) Add a "Zane thang". (What I would do if current hydraulic system in good shape).
b) Use limit chains.
c) Switch out hydraulic system parts from an 8N which does have position control ability.

And as already recommended by other posters: Always use an over-running clutch on PTO. It will allow you to actually stop when you push your clutch in when bushogging. Without the ORC the bushog blade will act as a big flywheel and keep pushing you forward even though you pushed the clutch in an attempt to stop.

 

[Soundguy]

. In other words, the lift is either all the way up or all the way down with no ability to hold a postion inbetween.

Not really. you CAN find locations between full-up/transport, and all the way down.. it's just that with varrying draft felt by the linkage, the lift might constantly need to be adjusted to hold a specific height.

. a) Add a "Zane thang". (What I would do if current hydraulic system in good shape).

which is EXACTLY why this lil gizmo works. it's a feedback scheme using levers and friction washers to continously reposition the 3pt control handle, in order to keep the lower draft links in place.

all in all a decent setup.. besides.. the 3pt positin control scheme is real easy to build too!

soundguy

 

[toolmanbird]

thanks guys!!! since the last time i posted ive had a chance to look around my new baby and found out that i allready have an ORC with a quick (ball bearing type clip)release and 1 3/8" spline (lifes good!) the hydrolics seem to hold up pretty well(cant seem to find any real leaks anywhere) so i guess im gonna check on the Zane thing and the limiter chains(probably go with the chains cause they sound cheaper) if anyone has any suggestions on what type of fluids(im in SC,so warm winters/HOT summers)i need your advice would be appreciated..looking for gas(additives to take the place of leaded?),oil,and hydrolic..thanks again

 

[Soundguy]

lead addatives?.. probably cheaper to just reach into your pocket, pull out a few small bills and toss them into the trash.. you will save money, and do about the same for the tractor.

your N left the factory with hardened valve seats... it doesn't need leaded gas. octane for fuel back then was at least 20 points lower than it is now.

if you really want to add something to your gas.. put some seafoam in it every 10 tank fulls, and grab a 3$ quart of type f atf fluid from walmart and add a few ounces per fill up.

oil for the rear sump? trans, diffy and hyds are common.. oem was 90wt gl1 or gl3.. or you can use 80w90 gl4/5 Mt1 yellow metal safe oil.. or UTF fluid meeting the m2C134 spec. ( walmart / napa.. etc.. )

engine oil? base it on climate and engine condition.

I use 15w40 in all my machines...

limit chains are way cheaper than a zane thang.. and you can make a set in about 10 minutes.. etc..

soundguy

 

[R Yow]

I had a Ferguson T30 and I used a blade with it to scrape my driveway. That was tough without the draft control. So I bought the Zane thing and it really worked great with the blade.

 

[Soundguy]

I had a Ferguson T30 and I used a blade with it to scrape my driveway. That was tough without the draft control. So I bought the Zane thing and it really worked great with the blade.

ya got it backwards.. early fergy and ford 9n/2n ONLY had draft control.. position control schemes like that zane thing were the upgrade.

8n+ had position control ont he fords.. etc.

soundguy

 

[R Yow]

Sorry soundguy I got it backwards, but the point that I was trying to make was that I have used the Zane thing and it really worked good. Though it is a little pricey I still think it's well worth the money.
R Yow