99 F350 PS Diesel cold start problem

[wwalkersd]

...
Check out dieselstop.com and check out all the info on fixing the cold start issues.

Small correction: it's www.thedieselstop.com (you forgot the "the"). You'll find folks there who can fix problems with your truck that you don't even know you have, let alone the ones you do. Like this site, though, it can be a little hard on your wallet (example: my early '99 now has a John Wood transmission, 6.0 radiator/trans cooler, full gauges, Airdog fuel preporator, regulated return fuel system, Terminator twin high-pressure oil pumps, Donaldson air intake, and a performance chip by DP-Tuner).

Here's an interesting article posted there: Cold Weather Powerstroke Operation. It's got links in it to testing procedures for the glow plugs and glow plug relay.

I just replaced the the glow plug control module (fancy name for the glow plug relay variant used on early '99 California Power Strokes). On my truck, it was lighting the MIL (aka Check Engine Light), and had codes P1393 and P1395, indicating low glow plug current on both engine banks. But I think, as others have said, that non-Cali trucks won't throw a code on a failed relay.

It's easy to replace. Sits on top of the right valve cover, basically, and has two 10mm mounting nuts and a six non-metric (don't recall sizes) nuts holding wires on. Your truck may vary, since it's not a Cali truck (I assume).

 

[WALT]

I'll add to the numerous posters that mentioned replacing the glow plug relay first. I have a 99.5 F-250 PS Diesel (built in May 1999) that had the hard start in cold weather issue. I bought a relay from NAPA vs. Ford, 3X+ the price, and have not had an issue since. I do plug it in for a few hours when working the nite shift at the firehouse, when it gets to 20 degrees or below.

When at home, it sits in my 50 degree basement garage during the winter, and starts without a problem. I always let the "wait to start" light go out before turning the key. That is how that motor was designed, and works for me.

Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com, formerly www.forddiesel .com is a great site, like this one, for PS diesel information.

WALT

 

[roccon31]

agreed, CHECK the relay first. if bad of course replace it. while you are in there with your test light though, check all 8 plugs too. its quite simple to do.if you only have 1 or 2 out, leave it go. if you have a few or more out you should replace them.

ps- the plugs we got were autolite, at 12 bucks each. if you are going to take the time to pull a valve cover do yourself a favor and replace all the plugs under that cover. it takes longer to get the covers off than to replace the plugs. you do not need to pull a valve cover to replace the relay, and it only takes about 5 minutes to replace.

keep in mind-the relay could be on its way out and a test light can show its good. heres why- the relay is essentially the same as a ford starter solenoid. a good relay should show a bright light on the batt. terminal, and a bright light on the plug side (with the plugs energized). BUT this does not guarantee that it can provide the adequate amperage needed to power the plugs. most times though, if the relay is no good, the light will be bright on the batt side, and dim or out all together on the plug side. 99 of 100 times the test light test will work though.