90w or even 140w in front axle to slow leak?

[wjsizemore77]

Like the title suggests, would it be ok to use 90w or 140w gear oil in the front axle/finals to slow down fluid leaking out? (To my credit, I did do a search before posting) I have a 1725 with 5800 hours and it leaks like a siv around the final drive pivot points. I am not wanting to spend the money having the seals redone, since it has so many hours on it. Would the gear oil be a safe alternative to the thin hydo oil spec'd for it? Also, I topped off the power steering resivior with a few ounces of automotive power steering fluid before I discovered that hyrdo oil is spec'd for everything on the tractor except the engine. Can that hurt the PS pump?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[SPYDERLK]

Like the title suggests, would it be ok to use 90w or 140w gear oil in the front axle/finals to slow down fluid leaking out? (To my credit, I did do a search before posting) I have a 1725 with 5800 hours and it leaks like a siv around the final drive pivot points. I am not wanting to spend the money having the seals redone, since it has so many hours on it. Would the gear oil be a safe alternative to the thin hydo oil spec'd for it? Also, I topped off the power steering resivior with a few ounces of automotive power steering fluid before I discovered that hyrdo oil is spec'd for everything on the tractor except the engine. Can that hurt the PS pump?
Thanks,
Bill

You might try a product with a seal softener in it. These can work well, but usually temporary. -- Another look angle tho..... If its leaking you know theres oil getting to that point. When seepage slows, add oil. You can reach a safe happy medium. Also, use 4wd only when needed, and when youre going to really need it for more than an emergency instant be sure to add oil.- other times, just spinning, it can safely run low for fairly long periods.
larry

 

[jinman]

I'm not sure how fast your oil leaks out, but certainly the gear oil is better than letting the front axle run dry. I'm guessing that your wheel drop boxes have oil since the pivot seal is above them. I would say that the characteristics of the heavier oil might not provide the thermal transfer that the thinner oil does nor provide the flow because of higher viscosity. If your drop boxes get oil from the main axle body, the heavier oil would be slower to replenish any lost oil from the drop boxes.

About how many hours a month do you use your 1725? If your chores are light, you may get away with this for a long time. It's anyone's guess.

 

[RickB]

Like the title suggests, would it be ok to use 90w or 140w gear oil in the front axle/finals to slow down fluid leaking out? (To my credit, I did do a search before posting) I have a 1725 with 5800 hours and it leaks like a siv around the final drive pivot points. I am not wanting to spend the money having the seals redone, since it has so many hours on it. Would the gear oil be a safe alternative to the thin hydo oil spec'd for it? Also, I topped off the power steering resivior with a few ounces of automotive power steering fluid before I discovered that hyrdo oil is spec'd for everything on the tractor except the engine. Can that hurt the PS pump?

Thanks,
Bill

Thicker oil may or may not leak slower, but trying it can't hurt. Swivel seals and axle seals aren't expensive or difficult to change, I routinely replace them on site with tools I normally carry on the service truck. As your front axle is unvented, one approach you could try is to vent the fill cap/dipstick. Preventing pressure buildup will drastically decrease the amount of leakage unless your seals are really, really bad. Vent the axle in a manner that keeps dirt and water out. Whatever you do, be sure to maintain the correct oil level in the axle and finals. If you are balking at the price of seals, you don't want to hear about the price of bearings, shafts, gears and housings. If the axle shaft seals are leaking, you really should jack up each front wheel and check for excessive bearing play, which really should be corrected before more expensive damage occurs.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a 1725 with 5800 hours and it leaks like a siv around the final drive pivot points. I am not wanting to spend the money having the seals redone, since it has so many hours on it.

Why don't you want to redo the seals? How much money are you talking about?

I don't know that model, but in my experience, seals don't cost very much money at all. Usually just a few bucks each, but even if you spent ten dollars each, it's still not that much.

Labor is the hard part, but like everything, just doing it and sticking with it is all that's usualy required. If you hit an area that you are unfamiliar with, take some pictures and post your questions. You'll find that there are allot of people here who know exactly what to do and are willing to share that information with you. It's what makes this site so great.

I rebuilt the diesel engine on my dozer without any experience on diesels at all because of the help I received from the guys here!!!!

Eddie

 

[RickB]

other times, just spinning, it can safely run low for fairly long periods.
larry

Incredibly poor advise. Allowing the front axle to run low on oil for "fairly long periods" is a recipe for a staggering repair bill relative to the value of the tractor. The first components to starve for oil will be the front differential and pinion shaft. The final drives and front axle center section are common sump.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Incredibly poor advise. Allowing the front axle to run low on oil for "fairly long periods" is a recipe for a staggering repair bill relative to the value of the tractor. The first components to starve for oil will be the front differential and pinion shaft. The final drives and front axle center section are common sump.

You misquoted my post by using an isolated phrase.
The gears pick the oil up and redistribute it. Unloaded bearings and gears dont need much and even without any renewal at all, oil wet slow spinning gears and bearings run a long time in an oil atmosphere before the oil is gone. I have some multikhr experience with this. You have to keep your eye on it and oil some regularly, and then well when you plan extensive front use.
larry

 

[RickB]

You misquoted my post by using an isolated phrase.
The gears pick the oil up and redistribute it. Unloaded bearings and gears dont need much and even without any renewal at all, oil wet slow spinning gears and bearings run a long time in an oil atmosphere before the oil is gone. I have some multikhr experience with this. You have to keep your eye on it and oil some regularly, and then well when you plan extensive front use.
larry

You are applying gereric experience to a specific application where it is not valid. When this front axle leaks oil from the swivel seals, the center section reservoir is depleted. There is no possibility that splash lubrication from oil remaining in the finals will reach the dry differential and upper bevel gearset. Pinion shaft bearings are the smallest diameter, and highest speed, so they will live shorter lives running dry. Much of anything less than an oil level in the 'safe zone' on the dipstick is flirting with ring gear, pinion shaft and bearing replacement. If that is a risk you feel comfortable encouraging the original poster to take, so be it.

 

[SPYDERLK]

You are applying gereric experience to a specific application where it is not valid. When this front axle leaks oil from the swivel seals, the center section reservoir is depleted. [There is no possibility that splash lubrication from oil remaining in the finals will reach the dry differential and upper bevel gearset.] Pinion shaft bearings are the smallest diameter, and highest speed, so they will live shorter lives running dry. Much of anything less than an oil level in the 'safe zone' on the dipstick is flirting with ring gear, pinion shaft and bearing replacement. If that is a risk you feel comfortable encouraging the original poster to take, so be it.

That is exactly the situation Im talking about. Oil runs back and forth thru the pumpkin as the axle pivots and bounces on uneven terrain. The ring gear picks it up. There is risk even with unloaded gears, but it doesnt take much attention to keep things healthy.

I did not encourage.​

larry

 

[JerryG]

If those seals leak to where no oil is at that level, your ring and pinion will be toast. The oil doesn't run back and forth once it is down to those seals like it does in a car or truck axle.