Mike Dermott
New member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2011
- Messages
- 4
- Tractor
- Ford 8N
So it still won't run!
Please recer to my original post below for some detais. I think the serial number is 8N293318.
When I misted the carb with gas it sorta ran better so I figured it was the carb. I rebuilt it with all new nozzels, (3) and checked for proper oriface sizes. I had one problem and that was I had to drill out the main Jet. The I screwed this up by drilling the hole too big. I had to make a bushing out of 1/4" brass rod with a 1/4" NF trhread on the outside and 8-32 thread on the inside to accept the jet. It still didn''t run right. tweaked timing, idle scre, main screw etc but no go. When I pulled it apart again i noticed that my main Jet is slightly out of alignment, doesn't point squarley & directly into the noxzzel. Before I build another bushing can anyone tell me if the nozzel is supposed to come in contact with the Jet or is there supposed to be a specific distance between the two?? Currently I have about 1/8" space between the main Jet & Nozzel.
8n won't start
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Hi!
I'm a new member and live near Orangeville Ontario Canada. I'm a commercial air-conditioning mechanic/service manager by trade and I only say this to display that I do have a mechanical aptitude, (but I'm not an automotive or tractor mechanic).
The 8N came with the property, can't read the serial # but it has a front mount distributor and my guess would be circa 1951. I've managed to keep it working for the last 12 years, and had a mechanic convert it to 12 volt, but this year its got me seriously frustrated. It ran OK when I parked it late last fall and now it wont start.
First I had no spark- First installed new 12 volt can, rotor & cap, when I removed the distributor & installed new condenser, points seemed ok, (i didnt notice at the time that the points weren't opening properly - tries to start but no go.
Second installed new multi strand copper plug wires, & plugs- tried to start but no go intermittant & weak spark.
Third removed distributor again and found that the fiber lever on the movable contact was worn out and points hardly opened. This time I thought I pegged it! Installed & gapped new points to 15 thou., and setup opening timing point. Sorta started but couldn't keep it running, sputters, backfires & dies.
Fourth removed carb & cleaned, drained gas & added new "super grade". Again it sorta started but no go.
Fifth removed carb & rebuilt, (if you can call it that), kit only comes with needle & seat, float rod, and some gaskets.) Removed & cleaned jets, ( the one in the bottom doesn't seem removable so I didn;t try. I also installed new ignition switch. Still no go!! really starting to get p o at this point.
sixth try removed carb again removed all but the one jet and blew everything out with carb cleaner in both directions to ensure no blockages. Still no go!!! Lost my sense of humour.
The only thing I can think of now is that the carb is NFG as everything else has been replaced or tinkered with.
If memory serves I have 2.9 ohms from the ignition through the 1.2 ohm resister and 1.7 ohms through the new square can coil. somewhere I read it should be 4 ohms but with what I have should give me a stronger spark
I think I was getting 100 psi on #1, 2, & 3, and 80 psi on #4.
What do you guys think!!
Thanx, Mike
Please recer to my original post below for some detais. I think the serial number is 8N293318.
When I misted the carb with gas it sorta ran better so I figured it was the carb. I rebuilt it with all new nozzels, (3) and checked for proper oriface sizes. I had one problem and that was I had to drill out the main Jet. The I screwed this up by drilling the hole too big. I had to make a bushing out of 1/4" brass rod with a 1/4" NF trhread on the outside and 8-32 thread on the inside to accept the jet. It still didn''t run right. tweaked timing, idle scre, main screw etc but no go. When I pulled it apart again i noticed that my main Jet is slightly out of alignment, doesn't point squarley & directly into the noxzzel. Before I build another bushing can anyone tell me if the nozzel is supposed to come in contact with the Jet or is there supposed to be a specific distance between the two?? Currently I have about 1/8" space between the main Jet & Nozzel.
8n won't start
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi!
I'm a new member and live near Orangeville Ontario Canada. I'm a commercial air-conditioning mechanic/service manager by trade and I only say this to display that I do have a mechanical aptitude, (but I'm not an automotive or tractor mechanic).
The 8N came with the property, can't read the serial # but it has a front mount distributor and my guess would be circa 1951. I've managed to keep it working for the last 12 years, and had a mechanic convert it to 12 volt, but this year its got me seriously frustrated. It ran OK when I parked it late last fall and now it wont start.
First I had no spark- First installed new 12 volt can, rotor & cap, when I removed the distributor & installed new condenser, points seemed ok, (i didnt notice at the time that the points weren't opening properly - tries to start but no go.
Second installed new multi strand copper plug wires, & plugs- tried to start but no go intermittant & weak spark.
Third removed distributor again and found that the fiber lever on the movable contact was worn out and points hardly opened. This time I thought I pegged it! Installed & gapped new points to 15 thou., and setup opening timing point. Sorta started but couldn't keep it running, sputters, backfires & dies.
Fourth removed carb & cleaned, drained gas & added new "super grade". Again it sorta started but no go.
Fifth removed carb & rebuilt, (if you can call it that), kit only comes with needle & seat, float rod, and some gaskets.) Removed & cleaned jets, ( the one in the bottom doesn't seem removable so I didn;t try. I also installed new ignition switch. Still no go!! really starting to get p o at this point.
sixth try removed carb again removed all but the one jet and blew everything out with carb cleaner in both directions to ensure no blockages. Still no go!!! Lost my sense of humour.
The only thing I can think of now is that the carb is NFG as everything else has been replaced or tinkered with.
If memory serves I have 2.9 ohms from the ignition through the 1.2 ohm resister and 1.7 ohms through the new square can coil. somewhere I read it should be 4 ohms but with what I have should give me a stronger spark
I think I was getting 100 psi on #1, 2, & 3, and 80 psi on #4.
What do you guys think!!
Thanx, Mike
