CraigM
Silver Member
Need some pointers on setting up the governor on an 8-N. After a long battle with this machine, we finally got it to start reliably. Many thanks to all who helped with that. The problem now is the governor.
There was an extension spring hooked between the carb throttle ball link and the gov arm that connects to the throttle handle. It reminded me of a briggs engine setup. It doesn't show up in any parts list (at newholland.com) I can find for the tractor. Anyone have a guess about that?
When we finally got the tractor running, it had 2 speeds, idle and way too fast. It took about 2 clicks on the throttle handle to go from idle to too fast. I thought the gov wasn't working, so we pulled it off and looked inside. Nothing looked abnormal. Everything was clean and free, no filings. There was a squared off wire loop connected to the yoke in the back of the gov housing. It wasn't in any parts list either. We left it alone.
We bench tested it by spinning the drive gear with the air hose. When it was spinning, it would fight like crazy to pull the carburetor arm in the direction to close the throttle. Back on the tractor and running, but not connected to the hand throttle or carb, it seemed like the carburetor arm was about 1/8" too far rearward for the connecting rod from the carb to reach. If we hooked the connecting rod up we had to open the throttle to do it and that made the engine run too fast. The gov was out of stroke and would not respond by compensating, which would have allowed the rod to connect and still have the engine at idle. Another observation was that if we pulled the throttle arm (the one connected to the hand throttle) back to simulate advancing the throttle, and then opened the carb to rev the engine, the gov would try to compensate. It was like gov only worked with the throttle advanced, but not anywhere near what would be an idle position. We removed 3 shims to allow the cone to move farther and this let the rod hook up, but it still didn't govern. After a few experiments, we found that making the gov-carb rod shorter would make the gov work. Advancing the throttle would rev the engine and at some point, it would not go any faster. Loading the engine would make the gov respond.
The short rod we are using is a piece of 12 Ga bare copper wire with loops on the end. Not a permanent solution. What do we adjust to convince the gov to work with the 'real' rod? Unfortunately, this rod is not adjustable. The parts list shows it having adjustable ends, but this one doesn't.
Is it typical for 8-N to use only a quarter of the throttle travel to go from idle to full at no load. I've never seen another engine where it worked that way.
What is the max speed that the gov should allow, and is that as simple as setting the stop screw at the gov?
What engine speed is supposed to give 540 PTO speed?
There was an extension spring hooked between the carb throttle ball link and the gov arm that connects to the throttle handle. It reminded me of a briggs engine setup. It doesn't show up in any parts list (at newholland.com) I can find for the tractor. Anyone have a guess about that?
When we finally got the tractor running, it had 2 speeds, idle and way too fast. It took about 2 clicks on the throttle handle to go from idle to too fast. I thought the gov wasn't working, so we pulled it off and looked inside. Nothing looked abnormal. Everything was clean and free, no filings. There was a squared off wire loop connected to the yoke in the back of the gov housing. It wasn't in any parts list either. We left it alone.
We bench tested it by spinning the drive gear with the air hose. When it was spinning, it would fight like crazy to pull the carburetor arm in the direction to close the throttle. Back on the tractor and running, but not connected to the hand throttle or carb, it seemed like the carburetor arm was about 1/8" too far rearward for the connecting rod from the carb to reach. If we hooked the connecting rod up we had to open the throttle to do it and that made the engine run too fast. The gov was out of stroke and would not respond by compensating, which would have allowed the rod to connect and still have the engine at idle. Another observation was that if we pulled the throttle arm (the one connected to the hand throttle) back to simulate advancing the throttle, and then opened the carb to rev the engine, the gov would try to compensate. It was like gov only worked with the throttle advanced, but not anywhere near what would be an idle position. We removed 3 shims to allow the cone to move farther and this let the rod hook up, but it still didn't govern. After a few experiments, we found that making the gov-carb rod shorter would make the gov work. Advancing the throttle would rev the engine and at some point, it would not go any faster. Loading the engine would make the gov respond.
The short rod we are using is a piece of 12 Ga bare copper wire with loops on the end. Not a permanent solution. What do we adjust to convince the gov to work with the 'real' rod? Unfortunately, this rod is not adjustable. The parts list shows it having adjustable ends, but this one doesn't.
Is it typical for 8-N to use only a quarter of the throttle travel to go from idle to full at no load. I've never seen another engine where it worked that way.
What is the max speed that the gov should allow, and is that as simple as setting the stop screw at the gov?
What engine speed is supposed to give 540 PTO speed?
