79' Ford 1300 4WD

[sasdakota]

So this thread will be an on going project.

I bought a 79' 1300 4WD with a Schwartz 1200 FEL.

It is lacking on power being 0.8L and rated for 16hp. SO I made the only logical decision and bought an RHF4 turbo for it. Data on the tractor and the turbo is almost non-existent on general google searches. My plan is to update this thread as I go with fitment and how I made it all work (or not work)..

If FedEx does not disappoint, turbo should arrive today and I will begin measuring with some photos. If anyone has worked on this injection pump I'd like to speak with you. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Looking forward to this project.

"The Fred" is a member here. He added a turbo to a non turbo Kubota. As you progress I'm sure he'll chime in.

Welcome to TBN.

 

[sasdakota]

ovrszd, Thanks for the welcoming post. I am excited to see the results from this project.

Turbo arrived, I promptly removed the exhaust and went to bolt on my new turbo... No go. We have clearance issues. See attached photos. I have a game plan for moving forward and will update as I gather more pieces to continue mockup. ENJOY


Here is the turbo. The exhaust flange is a perfect match to the head outlet BUT the 1300 hydraulic pump is in the way, see below.


Stock exhaust removed.


Hyd. pump/filter housing interference.


Spacing the turbine housing straight out away from the hyd. All photos following this are taken with turbo spaced out.


Intake filter will be reversed in the bracket to allow inlet to make a direct line to compressor. The stock rubber tubing will be cut up with other tubing to make the charge pipe and boost reference.


Looking down the side of the hood, turbine sticks out every so slightly but with far better clearance than stock muffler.


Flanges are being ordered to fab a custom outlet back into the factory muffler.

 

[showcattle]

looking forward to this!

 

[sasdakota]

looking forward to this!

Showcattle,

Do you still have your 1100? If so, would you mind snapping some photos of the hydraulic pump and exhaust outlet area of the engine? I am curious how much different it is to the 1300.

 

[The Fred]

You are going to have a fun time with your project just like I did.

Here's a pile of parts I just removed/replaced on my L3940. I installed a turbo and cranked the fuel, went from 39 to 60 hp.

Engine went bad in 400 hours of hard working. Not saying yours will but most of my work is blowing snow at 3000 RPM full tilt, boost was 6.5 pounds no more. Timing was stock 17 BTDC and I checked it twice all 4 cylinders.

I noticed a little uneven running at idle and when I split the machine to replace a bad HST input shaft seal I figured I would check the engine for leakdown and found out 3 of the 4 pistons were damaged.

Turbo is off now just getting the machine back together and until I finish the thing I guess my wife can plow the driveway with a hand shovel after the foot os snow we got this week.

Also 3 of the 4 intake valves didn't seal correctly and the valves were perfect, the seats had moved around or something I am not sure why. I cut the seats and lapped the valves and they seal just fine now.

Regards, Fred


Good luck, be careful not to go crazy with the fuel setting.

 

[showcattle]

Showcattle,

Do you still have your 1100? If so, would you mind snapping some photos of the hydraulic pump and exhaust outlet area of the engine? I am curious how much different it is to the 1300.

Yes we still have it. I'll try to get pics later today

 

[Agvg]

Any heat damage on the pistons?

 

[sasdakota]

The Fred, Thanks for taking the time to share that info! I've done quite a bit of diesel tuning (trucks and conversions) so fuel strategy is not lost on me. I read your thread, you went through **** over there.. Doing some crude math I figure you gained 53% output if you made your 60hp target. I am shooting for a bit more modest goal of 25-35% gain. Hopefully it lives, if not I had fun trying. Look forward to talking with you more.

Showcattle, That is great thanks for doing that.

Agvg, I have not completed the conversion to turbo yet so I am not sure I understand your question? Maybe that was geared towards The Fred but this isn't his thread. Try here, https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/311706-i-still-hate-my-tractor.html

 

[ovrszd]

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/311706-i-still-hate-my-tractor.html[/url]

I invited Fred over here thinking he might have some offerings. Sorry.

 

[The Fred]

I don't think there's much for me to offer Richard.

I think too much fuel killed the cat. It only boosted 6.5 pounds. If a guy ran the machine normal and not full tilt it would be ok. In my case pistons with steel ring lands would be the answer for longevity.

I would imagine all of these new tier 4 common rail tractor engines have steel ring lands. I'll check before doing a turbo on my Kioti.

I'll run it through the Winter and get a bigger machine in the Spring. It's not that big of a deal the turbo install, keep it neat and not too hot, maybe install a pyrometer?

I really don't think mine ran too hot but hindsight being 20/20 I should have sent out a few oil samples over the years and I would have known too much aluminum in the oil was certain death of the ring lands.

 

[sasdakota]

I invited Fred over here thinking he might have some offerings. Sorry.

Nothing to apologize for! I was replying to a different member's question that seemed to be aimed towards The Fred. Just trying to keep people straight so they don't think the pistons and rebuild is me. Thats all. :thumbsup:

 

[sasdakota]

Fred, It looks to me like without adding timing with increased fuel duration you may have been wetting the walls *Chasing the piston ATDC*. The oil scrapers look clean and clear (you definitely kept up on oil changes) so oil contamination likely did not cause the rings to stick. But as you know, once that top ring was no longer free to move, it was all down hill from there..

Edit: Also, the reason I agree with Fred it was not heat related is that I don't see scorching in the crown, no major sign of melting, and the skirts look to be in good condition, if it got hot usually the piston swells and there will be a lot of skirt wear.

Side note for those who don't know: Flat piston designs are not very forgiving to increased injector on-time or emissions in general. The newer DI technology, combustion chamber is in the piston not the head. Creates a better swirl effect and cleaner oil (less fuel wetting the walls) and lower emissions.

 

[sasdakota]

Quick update, I am out of town Sunday-Thursday but I've ordered flanges online, hopefully they beat me home next week!

Turbo Flange & Gasket IHI RHF4 RHB5 RHF5 4JG2 VICC VI95

To make the extension joint I plan to reuse the factory muffler flange and a section of the tube then add this flange to the other end. The outlet I plan to use a section of plate and cut tubing along with the above flange to make a nice collector and route that back into the factory muffler piping with it still coming out above the hood like stock.

 

[ovrszd]

Nothing to apologize for! I was replying to a different member's question that seemed to be aimed towards The Fred. Just trying to keep people straight so they don't think the pistons and rebuild is me. Thats all. :thumbsup:

No worries. I think Fred might have something to offer in regards to the fabrication required. But if you've read his thread you've already saw that stuff.

 

[showcattle]

Sorry it took so long. Completely forgot until today. Looks very similar to your 1300.

Showcattle,

Do you still have your 1100? If so, would you mind snapping some photos of the hydraulic pump and exhaust outlet area of the engine? I am curious how much different it is to the 1300.

 

[sasdakota]

Sorry for the delay, I have a few other projects in the works right now. Main one next is finishing the lighting in my shop tomorrow. In the meantime, here are some measurements and turbo pics I promised early on.


This is the turbine inducer and exducer.


Exhaust inlet size.


Wastegate port and wastegate flapper.


Turbine Housing.


Compressor housing. I am not excited about the lack of seal between the back plate and the cover. Will likely do something here when reassembled.


Compressor inducer and exducer.


Does anyone have questions, want pics or measurements of another part of this turbo? Speak now before I put it all back together.

 

[sasdakota]

Sorry it took so long. Completely forgot until today. Looks very similar to your 1300.

Thank you for doing that! Looks very similar in the engine but yours has the horizontal muffler.


Side note, has anyone here done an exhaust to route down towards the ground like more modern 99-00 tractors on these older shibauras?

 

[sasdakota]

WOW, fell all the way back to page 19! This project was back burnered because we kept needing to use the tractor around the house and I was not that motivated. However I've ordered the last of AN fittings needed to make oil feed and drain lines. Updates to come between Christmas and New year.

On a different subject than turbos, I have a few questions for those that have done resto builds or just repairs in general. I want to replace all the loader pivot joints and while doing so add or repair the grease points. I'd like to pick your brain in regards to what material you used and where it was sourced. As well as who has found a blue paint that matches the original 79' Ford blue?

 

[sasdakota]

I can finally say with a 99.99% probability, that I have the only Ford 1300 that is turbocharged!!



But first, lets recap how it got there.

Here we can see the adapter I made, this extends as well as rotates the turbo upward. I did this to get away from the hyd pump and filter housing, then realized I needed to fit inside the loader frame channel. So the adapter was made (tacked) and the turbo was in place.


Enter, the downpipe. This again was 100% made from plate and exhaust pipe. The flange kit I ordered does not fit this turbo despite online seller claiming it fits. :confused2:



So the turbo is now mounted, adapter is fully burned in, downpipe is complete. Time for plumbing. But wait, this shibaura engine does not have provisions for an oil drain. Hmm where to add a hole? AH! the timing case governor cavity looks like a good spot. Disassembled and removed, filled the void with lint free paper towels to catch shavings. Add a vaccum and a 9/16 drill bit we have a hole big enough for a 3/8 npt tap to match my -10an drain. Finish this off with 5/8 pushlock to -10an fittings.



Now we need to feed this turbo OIL. Thats the easy part, install the -4an feed line kit I ordered with included metering adapter. Borrowing oil from filter housing/oil pressure sensor. Works like a champ, but stay away from the exposed +12vdc at the back of the alternator.



Alright, home stretch! We have oil, we have exhaust, I already cheated and have a full game plan for the inlet. Flipped the air filter housing 180*, and reused the original inlet tube. Cut in the middle to extend the length, I reused a chunk of the old exhaust pipe for the extension.



And finally, the charge piping was added. Turbo outlet is 1-1/2"ish (metric), and the engine inlet is 1-3/4". So I ran to the local parts store and bought two different sections of radiator hose from their stash. And used a 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" exhaust adapter in the middle. VOILA!



Next will be some pump work to try and target 6-8psi.

Thanks for reading!
-Derek