PILOON
Super Star Member
Good, sounds like you have it in hand. Even if a micron or 2 off it will be better than B4.
77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
- Thread starter HomesteadOC
- Start date
- Views: 69300
Good, sounds like you have it in hand. Even if a micron or 2 off it will be better than B4.
OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
Way better than before. Im also planning the remote hydraulic filter, that should be even finer. I know theres going to be a lot of junk in that system even after draining it so Ill probably do another oil change in 50hrs.
OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
I painted the hydraulic screen housing and then decided to paint the intake manifold, coolant inlet, and the head while its off. I need to get some painters tape for the cylinder head, but I already have 2 coats on everything else. It seems easier to do it while its on the bench than when its on the engine, I want to get underneath all the bolt heads and make it nice. Ill go back over any areas that need touch up as well after I give it a better powerwashing.
OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
Cylinder head has been painted and then I gave a second coat to the little bits that wont be easily sprayed once theyre installed. I didnt want to do a complete second coat because I knew I was getting my pistons back from the machine shop today. I just got them home and they look great, the owner did them himself as his son squashed the one last week. Im going to put the rings on and then line the rings up before compressing them and tapping them in. Im not sure how to get a decent video of the work, but ill do my best. Im hoping to have it running tonight.:cloud9:
OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
Ugh, I broke the oil ring using some cheap POS ring expanding pliers off amazon. I returned those and went and bought the standard ring pliers from a local auto parts store and installed the rest of the rings. I even installed the other 3 rings on the piston and will add the oil ring from the bottom when I get it. Piston 1 was installed in the block and torqued to 25ftlb. It seems that I will not get my oil ring until next week, but im hoping for saturday. Im also hoping I wont have to buy a whole ring set to replace the oil ring.
I reinstalled the valve springs with new valve seals and the old keepers. I installed the new rebuilt hydraulic screen but before I did I stuck my magnet on a stick in there and swiped it around and pulled out some goodies. I found gobs of metal shavings and a few broken geat teeth of minimal size. The back wheels spin freely so Im not too worried about the bigger metal pieces I pulled out of there. I did about 10 trips in there until I stopped getting many metal shavings and then put the screen in and tightened it down with a new o-ring. I looked at the drain plugs on either side and thought about how I could get a magnet in the plug end to help collect the leftover shavings for the next fluid change. That would require some strong glue and Im not sure the loctite 680 is up to the task yet. I could have them machined to fit a magnet in there or buy some replacement plugs with magnets already built in.
Heres the valve spring video.
I reinstalled the valve springs with new valve seals and the old keepers. I installed the new rebuilt hydraulic screen but before I did I stuck my magnet on a stick in there and swiped it around and pulled out some goodies. I found gobs of metal shavings and a few broken geat teeth of minimal size. The back wheels spin freely so Im not too worried about the bigger metal pieces I pulled out of there. I did about 10 trips in there until I stopped getting many metal shavings and then put the screen in and tightened it down with a new o-ring. I looked at the drain plugs on either side and thought about how I could get a magnet in the plug end to help collect the leftover shavings for the next fluid change. That would require some strong glue and Im not sure the loctite 680 is up to the task yet. I could have them machined to fit a magnet in there or buy some replacement plugs with magnets already built in.
Heres the valve spring video.
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thepumpguysc
Elite Member
Sux about the ring breaking.!!! I know THAT feeling..
Don't forget to STAGGER the ring gaps.. VERY IMPORTANT.. DONT line them up..
& are you SURE about the tightening torque?? 25 seems alittle light.. What gauge are you using.. FTlbs, NM.??
Are you using a shop manual??
Thanks for all the videos..
Don't forget to STAGGER the ring gaps.. VERY IMPORTANT.. DONT line them up..
& are you SURE about the tightening torque?? 25 seems alittle light.. What gauge are you using.. FTlbs, NM.??
Are you using a shop manual??
Thanks for all the videos..
OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
Manual says connecting rod cap nut is torqued to 23.1-25.3ftlbs, or 3.2-3.5kgm.
Rings were staggered according to manual.
If the front of engine is at 9 oclock then oil ring gap is 430, #1 is 730, #2 is 130, and #3 is 1030
Also the first time I put the #1 piston in I forgot to lube it and put in the bearing. I tried to put the bearing in from the bottom, but that was a fools errand and it was so easy to just take the piston out and do it right.
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OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
Heres a video of my strainer rebuild.
Ilikeurtractor
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2011
- Messages
- 1,070
- Tractor
- Iseki TX1300F/TX1500/ TX2160F/TS2220F/ Satoh S370D/S373D
Looks good, nice job! I broke one ring also. They tend not to open up evenly, but rather "kink" 180 degrees out from the tool. Although it's not recommended, I now only open them up enough to get them started on the piston and then "walk" them on to the ring lands to the best of my ability. Otherwise it just has to open up too much for my liking to drop them in the land without touching along the way.
OP
HomesteadOC
Silver Member
Does anyone know anything about the satoh beavers hydraulic system? My pump pulls fluid from the tank with a large hard pipe suction line, pumps it back to the same manifold it comes out of on the right side of the tractor through a smaller diameter hard line. Then on the left side of the tractor theres another manifold that sends pressurized fluid to my loader valve where it enters the port marked IN, from there it can operate the loader and then there are 2 ports where fluid could exit but my hose is plumbed from the PB port back to the manifold on the left of the tractor. The other option is labeled OUT, but is plugged. All these connections are not new and it seems that the tractor is meant to work this way with this loader. I want to add a filter and housing to the return to tank line but this filter and housing cant handle the pumps full 1920psi, it had a bypass at 25psi. My limited hydraulic knowledge tells me that the PB is power beyond and it is at full pressure. Im guessing out is a return to tank, but its not used so the PB has to be sending the fluid to the tank eventually.
My question is...Does that PB line have full pressure that it is sending to the 3PH lift and then the hydraulic valve internally is dumping that back to the tank internally? Or is the PB port used as a return to tank when there is nothing after it that would cause pressure to build past it?
Heres pictures of the valve.
View attachment 546750
The big hose on the left marked IN
View attachment 546751
Close up of the PB hose and the 90.
My question is...Does that PB line have full pressure that it is sending to the 3PH lift and then the hydraulic valve internally is dumping that back to the tank internally? Or is the PB port used as a return to tank when there is nothing after it that would cause pressure to build past it?
Heres pictures of the valve.
View attachment 546750
The big hose on the left marked IN
View attachment 546751
Close up of the PB hose and the 90.
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