7520 problems AGAIN...

[dnetherland]

Cuz
A post I placed on another forum and the answer follows. My tractor is a 1999 and I would have thought the newer tractors would already have the relay switch on them but I was shopping an used 7520 and it sounded like he had the same problem. Here's a link to the site

Mahindra Tractor Blog

I wired it in as he directed and problem seems to be solved. Not sure why but it seems you have to disconnect the relay or the battery cable to charge the battery. Found out the hard way.
Don

I have a 4005. I have replaced the safety switch that prevents start-up in gear on two occasions. It appears to have gone bad again. I can short the starter and start the tractor but cannot start with the key even when I move the transmission lever back and forth several times. Any suggestions? I really don't want to disable the safety feature but I am tired of replacing the same part repeatedly.

Don
Don.
On some of the older tractors you get too much resistance building up in all the switches and wire to get enough voltage down to the small terminal on the starter relay which kicks the starter in. Replace any of these and it may help for a while until the total resistance builds up too high again.
You can get a 12 volt starter relay which is a heavy duty switch and use the original small solenoid wire to trigger the new relay. This takes very little voltage to operate and will usually work with the resistance in your system.

I will put the 12 volt relay # 311006 on my parts site @ PARTS FOR MAHINDRA TRACTOR, BRANSON, ZETOR TRACTOR - BILL’S TRACTOR showing in the older Ford Parts section.

Mention how to wire it and I will try to include instructions.

This will put 12 volts straight to the starter without going through the safety switches but they will still be in effect since you are going through them to operate the new relay.

This is a trick that has been used on cars and tractors for years.
Bill 210-649-1715

 

[TyDog]

Yep, they replaced the PTO switch last week and re-crimped the ends on the connector that hooks up to the switch. I really think the gear shift lever being moved is the one that caused it to start this time although I am not 100% sure. It too has a safety switch on it. Could it be going bad as well?

CUZ, the neutral safety switch (underneath the shifter, just inside of the right rear wheel) went out on my 7520 after about 50 or so hours. They mailed me one. It is pretty easy to get at to replace.
Sorry to hear about all of your PIA issues with your machine.Kenny

 

[CuzPat62]

The Service Manager from my dealer came yesterday and back again today to work on tractor not starting. Today the shifter safety switch was replaced and the starter relay under the hood was replaced. The tractor is starting up now.

Now, back to a problem I have had since day one with the tractor. It won't lift anything remotely heavy!

I have a guy hired to push up some stumps on my land with a dozier, where I had some timber cut last year. I have the pallet forks on my tractor and have them slid all the way in, close together. As he pushes up the stumps I am picking them up and moving them so he does not have to push them so far. I have had several stumps today that the loader will not pick up. Will not pick up or roll back when you get forks under them. These are not huge stumps either. Loader is rated for a 3900 lb. lift capacity. These stumps are no where near that weight. Probably not even half that weight. The service manager observed my tractor NOT being able to lift these stumps this afternoon. He then turned the relief valve setting up one full round. Loader still will not pick up the stump. He told me a 20 H.P. tractor would be able to pick up the stump we were trying to lift.

He said this tractor should stand on its nose and lift the rear tires off the ground if the load was too heavy to lift. It does not do this. He seems to think that the loader control valve has fluid leaking by internally. He left today and is going to order a new valve to go on the tractor.

I've been trying to convince everyone since I've had this tractor that something was wrong with the loader. It won't lift and it is extremely slow. Finally, the Service Manager got to see it first-hand this afternoon. He said there is no reason for a tractor this size not to be able to lift a stump the size we were trying to lift.

I'm way past disgusted with this tractor! I'll give credit to the dealer though. They are trying awfully hard to get this piece of junk fixed.

 

[DavesTractor]

Now, back to a problem I have had since day one with the tractor. It won't lift anything remotely heavy!

......He told me a 20 H.P. tractor would be able to pick up the stump we were trying to lift.

......I've been trying to convince everyone since I've had this tractor that something was wrong with the loader. It won't lift and it is extremely slow.

Cuz, as I have mentioned a couple times before, hydraulics can be easily tested. Every dealer should have a pull scale and a stopwatch and a pressure guage. With those things it can be tested to work up to specs or not, simple as that. There is no reason to continue agonizing for months. It has been clear to you for a long time that your tractor is not lifting to specs, demand that some tests be done.

Don't take this wrong, but I'm getting a little tired of the complaining about this situation. Let's get to the bottom of this. Have the dealer scale the lift capacity and speed before he changes the valve. We need a baseline. Have him put a pressure guage on the system and see what it reads. Probably he is planning on doing this already after seeing how poorly it lifts, but we really don't know. Just swapping parts is a slow and frustrating way to solve problems. How quick is the three-point and how strong? We need to make sure the pump is working correctly and isn't sucking air, then check pressure reliefs and do proper testing. There is a pressure relief in the rockshaft area also.

I had a 7520 customer in today and he told me about a 68 Chevy Impala he lifted and put on a trailer with his forks. I think it was just the back end and he rolled the front on the trailer, but it was a simple matter. This tractor is a brute!

As for the safety switches causing it to not start, we have replaced several and it is frustrating. It's about a 2 minute diagnosis and a 15 minute fix. We have yet to replace a "replacement" switch as far as I can recall. I suspect MUSA is listening and this is a $3 problem causing a very frustrating problem on an otherwise great tractor. There really is no excuse, they need a top quality switch from here forward.

 

[CuzPat62]

DavesTractor,
I will forward these idea's to the Service Manager on Monday. I'll send him a copy of your posting. He may have plans on doing some testing.

I have a set of forks for the 3 point hitch and I am going to put them on the tractor today and see if it will lift the stump with the 3 point hitch. He did ask me to do that yesterday while he was here. I will get that done today.

 

[SPYDERLK]

CuzPat, pls see post 131 in this thread. This shows where I ported in a gauge to always be aware of the pressure the Hyd pump was putting out

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra/100778-power-take-off-pump.html

larry

 

[Dougster]

Now, back to a problem I have had since day one with the tractor. It won't lift anything remotely heavy! {snip} I'm way past disgusted with this tractor! I'll give credit to the dealer though. They are trying awfully hard to get this piece of junk fixed.

I'm just sitting back here in Taxachusetts reading all these posts and waiting like a vulture for CuzPat to throw up his hands one last time and sell me that horrible, problematic "piece of junk" machine at an ultra-super-bargain price just so he can get rid of it and get something else!!!

Please don't anybody interfere with my plan. It may be the only way I will ever come to own my dream machine!

Thank you.

Dougster

 

[CuzPat62]

Dougster,
Ya wanna make me an offer? I'll send this sucker your way in a hurry.

Dave,
Been thinking about what you posted about "complaining". I have tried to make the dealer aware of these loader problems all along. They have checked a few things on it. After spending what I did on this tractor and having the problems I've had, that by the way, are still not corrected, I think I have a right to do some complaining. I didn't sell this tractor, I didn't build it, and I'm not the one that warranties it. I'm the customer. All I can do is make the dealer and Mahindra aware of the problems and it's up to them to do whatever they will and can to right them.

It doesn't bother me in the least to let anyone know that I am not a happy Mahindra customer and I am very dissatisfied with the quality of my personal Mahindra tractor. I never dreamed that I'd have all these problems out of a brand new 30K tractor. For a tractor to leave their facility and have the number of problems mine has had does not say much for their quality control and inspection.

Maybe somebody had one cold one too many the night my tractor was built??? By the way Dave, no hard feelings at all and no animosity meant by my reply here.

 

[DavesTractor]

CuzPat,

No hard feelings at all. You have had a number of valid issues, that is for sure. I just think it can't be that hard to make the tractor 100% correct, and I want to see it done.

Dave

 

[frenchie4x4]

cuzpat, I agree with Dave something is wrong in the hydraulics. Possibly low pressure problem or air sucking into system. I own a 50hp Kioti with cab loader and hoe and it is so strong it will pick up anything trucks jeeps you name it. If I get under something to heavy it will lift the back wheels 2 feet or more off the ground if im not carefull. Also your steering is pump related possibly air in there also .The wheels should react as soon as you turn the steering wheel running or not. At the local fair any tractor I sat on (and it was a lot my wife is very patient) JD, NH, Massy, Cub cadet when I turned the steering wheel the gerotor inside the orbitrol unit (steering controller) rotates to supply oil to the steering cylinder and the wheels turned. all this with out the engine running. Stop by any dealer and try it you must have air in your system or a bad valve or very poor quality hyd. fluid. I have also found in life that many problems have accured by an inexperinced mechanic (not intentional) wether it be automotive ,tractor,plumbing heating or what ever.
Your electical starting problem doesn't anyone trouble shoot the problem? Trace wires use a test light ,check voltage,contenuity? follow a wiring diagram? When my A/C was intermitent I found broken wires at the firewall caused buy a relay swinging from a broken mount. You could not see the broken wires they were broken in the insulation. Be patient it took me 2weekends to find the problem. Good luck frenchie