Rear Blade 7’ Back Blade on 47hp Kubota L4760

[fishpick]

Loader is 6’ for comparison. Thoughts on a 7’ blade on the back of this size of tractor.

 

[woody]

I have never had a scrape blade on my L45 but I believe it would not have a problem. My thought would be do you have loaded tires for traction? I use a 5 foot blade on my B26 just for reference.

 

[Cycledude]

I have nice John Deere 6 foot blade on 55 horse tractor , it works fine but I often wish it was 7 foot so it wood plow a little wider.
When I use the 6 foot blade on my 8N Ford I’m glad it’s not wider.

 

[LD1]

I'd say it depends on how you want to use the blade?

Is it for scraping virgin dirt, or grading loose piles? Spreading loose stone or regrading a packed drive? Snow removal?

But I'd say 7' is about right. I had a 7' 700# (fairly heavy) blade on an L3400 and thought it was a good match.

My MX5100, similar in weight and HP to your tractor, and I run a 8' hydraulic blade @1200 pounds.

IF doing virgin dirt work....it dont matter if you have a 4' blade or a 8' blade....if you take too agressive of a bite it has the ability to stall the tractor. But you need a HEAVY blade to do this. 100 pounds per foot is minimum IMO, and 150 is better. You can get a 7' blade that might weigh 400 pounds, and that would be fine spreading loose stone or doing snow removal. But trying to dig in and reshape land or refurbish an established drive, its gonna just chatter across the surface and do nothing as if you were dragging it down a paved road.

With a rear blade that angles.....you want to be a little wider than the tractor to cover your tracks (or at least pretty close) when its angled.

 

[IndyIan]

I have a lighter duty 7' rear blade, not near 100lbs per foot. Its my main snow tool and for that probably an 8' would be better. It will push around grade A gravel but its not eager to dig into packed gravel at all. I can kind of ditch with it, setup to make one corner dig in, but I've broken the pin holder for the angle position once and had it welded up.
Since I've a bought a true HD 7' box blade, that's probably 150lbs/foot, it moves all the dirt around here. Ditching, spreading gravel, made a pad on the side of a hill for a 30x60 hoop barn. It can stop the tractor pretty easily in virgin turf, but once below that in can curl our clay soil like cutting cheese. I'm also in the hills so most of the time I'm pulling downhill with it, and it will load up a half yard of dirt very quickly. 7' is also nice as it covers the tractor width plus a bit.
If you are using the tractor and have some mechanical sympathy, I would go to a HD blade that can strain the tractor and by smart about it. It will atleast dig into the turf and you won't break it!

 

[fishpick]

I'd say it depends on how you want to use the blade?

Is it for scraping virgin dirt, or grading loose piles? Spreading loose stone or regrading a packed drive? Snow removal?

But I'd say 7' is about right. I had a 7' 700# (fairly heavy) blade on an L3400 and thought it was a good match.

My MX5100, similar in weight and HP to your tractor, and I run a 8' hydraulic blade @1200 pounds.

IF doing virgin dirt work....it dont matter if you have a 4' blade or a 8' blade....if you take too agressive of a bite it has the ability to stall the tractor. But you need a HEAVY blade to do this. 100 pounds per foot is minimum IMO, and 150 is better. You can get a 7' blade that might weigh 400 pounds, and that would be fine spreading loose stone or doing snow removal. But trying to dig in and reshape land or refurbish an established drive, its gonna just chatter across the surface and do nothing as if you were dragging it down a paved road.

With a rear blade that angles.....you want to be a little wider than the tractor to cover your tracks (or at least pretty close) when its angled.

According to the spec-sheet on the website it's about 450#... (50 Series Rear Mounted Blades - Bush Hog) rated for 50 horsepower tractor... err... 40hp tractor if the tractor is 4WD. Being at 47 and knowing I'm not planning on pushing it - I figure it's probably ok... maybe I just stay in 2WD so the specification police don't hunt me down.

Really has me looking at used blades is primarily my driveway. Not the main grading / maintenance - I do that with a 6' land plane and love that thing. What happens is I end up with a little ridge of stones along the edges of the drive when done land planing. Now having used the plane for several years those little ridges have turned into maybe 2" high curbs along the edge of the drive. I'd like to have a tool to knock the shoulders off when needed and perhaps even pull the ridge of stone back after land planing to prevent them in the first place. The earth also consumes the driveway in the spring as the stones sink in some and push out towards the sides - and I think that could use a reshaping along the edges as well.

Other than that - I'd absloutely find use to have a blade on the rear during the winter to pull snow out fron structures that it's hard to get the front blower into. And to scrape the concrete pad infront of the garage as opposed to living with inches of packed snow and ice until it thaws.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I have an old TufLine GB1-84 blade. Medium duty at only a little over 400 lbs, But it offsets easily and is perfect for working on my road edges and beyond where I am often not using the entire blade width.

gg

 

[3gunr]

I use a 7 ft woods blade behind my 2810 mahindra , Works great for snow and ditch work , I used to grade our road all the time with it , now a neighbor does it with a skid steer, Your tractor will handle a 7 footer easy

 

[Thomas]

Gordon has cats @ss setup.

 

[Thomas]

If blade extends 6" out from rear tire at 45 digress you'll like lot better.