5w-40 Mobil Syn in 790 JD

[RWEST]

sixdogs - Here's a VOA of J-D 0W-40 John Deere Supreme "Plus 50" 0W-40 - Bob Is The Oil Guy and a UOA after ~100 hrs in my X-595's Yanmar J-D 0W-40 Semi-Syn. (24 HP Yanmar Diesel) - Bob Is The Oil Guy . It's obviously a well-fortified oil, perfectly suited to members of the "high ZDDP" club. I've stocked up on it for our diesel stuff. As far as I've heard, J-D doesn't plan any changes in its composition, since there are tons of diesels out there that don't have particulate filters and smog stuff, and they don't market it to the OTR guys anyway.

The new CJ-4 oils supposedly have either additional anti-wear ingredients (boron?) or revised ratios of existing ingredients to make up for the reduction in zinc/phosphorous, but I dunno. Personally, I like those big ZDDP numbers for my older, expensive to repair equipment. The new stuff may end up being the best thing since sliced bread, and, if so, that's great; until the results are in, I'll keep using a proven product.

BTW - Based on UOA's at BITOG, Mobil 1 TDT 5-40 IS a high-ZDDP type, although the tests I've seen didn't say whether or not it was CI-4+ or CJ-4.

 

[DieselPower]

CJ-4 oils are far superior to any previous API spec's. Tens of millions of dollars have been spent by oil manufacturers in the formulation and testing and take my word for it (from someone in the lube industry) meeting the CJ-4 spec isn't easy. In addition to the API spec most oils that meet CJ-4 also meet additional even higher standards set by manufacturers like Cummins, Caterpillar, Detroit Diesel, Volvo, Mack and Mercedes Benz.

If you buy a oil that meets API CJ-4 with the addition of Caterpillar ECF-3, Cummins CES 20081, Detroit Diesel Power Guard 93K217, Mack EO-O Premium Plus 07, Volvo VDS-4 and meets ACEA spec's E7/E5/E3/B3/A3 your not going to have anything to worry about.

Many have also mentioned concerns about CJ-4 having a lower TBN (total base number [in english it's the oils reserve alkalinity or ability to neutralize acid]) level and using it in older engines with higher sulfur diesel fuels. It is true that the majority of oils that meet CJ-4 spec do have a lower starting TBN. The thing to remember is that the rate that the TBN decreases has been greatly improved in CJ-4 oils. The number may not be as big but it has greater staying power. I have several customers that run large trucking fleets that have switched over to running CJ-4 oil in all their trucks new and old. They have actually found that even in older engines they have been able to increase their drain intervals compared to when they were using CI-4 oils, using a UOA program.

 

[RalphVa]

Here are the numbers showing a 0w30 is HEAVIER than a 5w30 at operating temperatures above 212 F:

Grade cP@ Temp, C cS cS@212F cS@250F
0w30 3250 -30 3611 12.5 8.55
5w30 3500 -25 3933 12.5 8.37

The cylinder walls may be even hotter than 250F. I'm just guessing. The water jacket side is probably 190F. The 0w is lighter at 16.11 cS there vs. 16.38 cS for 5w. Anywhere else in the engine, the 0w will be lighter for better flowability, especially at startup.

Ralph

 

[jmfox]

Is the 5w30 designed with construction diesels in mind? I know there are specific additives for passenger vehicles that are not helpful to construction machinery.

jmf

 

[excelagator]

A little off topic. I ran Mobil 1 0-30wt in our Maxima, we normally run 5-30wt Mobil 1. I got alot of noise at start-up, more than 5-30wt. I ran this in 60 degree temps.

I changed back to 5-30wt and the noise is gone. I feel that I was either having cavitation at the pump at start up or the oil was "completely" wicking from the cylinder walls. I realize some have put alot of research and are quite knowledgeable on oils. But, Sometimes thinner is better and sometimes not. Sometimes just listening to an engine helps also! Just food for thought!

Dan

 

[WilliamBos]

A little off topic. I ran Mobil 1 0-30wt in our Maxima, we normally run 5-30wt Mobil 1. I got alot of noise at start-up, more than 5-30wt. I ran this in 60 degree temps.

I changed back to 5-30wt and the noise is gone. I feel that I was either having cavitation at the pump at start up or the oil was "completely" wicking from the cylinder walls. I realize some have put alot of research and are quite knowledgeable on oils. But, Sometimes thinner is better and sometimes not. Sometimes just listening to an engine helps also! Just food for thought!

Dan

Exactly!! The biggest advantage to synthetics is the lower pour points, so why the need or bother to use a lower grade oil? Our 1523 calls for 10w30 3 seasons, and 15w40 in hot summer months, so why would I ever even consider going to a lower weight? Instead, will be running synthetic on the next change, grade will remain the same.

JMHO.

 

[RalphVa]

ALL oil that you buy is good for -40 C/F pour point. The difference between 0w, 5w and 10/15w if a lower viscosity at startup, which USUALLY helps the oil pump to start pump the oil to the upper valve gear quicker.

In my JD 4010 owners manuals, 5w30 covers the entire temperature range. A 0w30 is even better yet but wasn't available at the time the manual was written. If 5w30 covers the range for JD, why doesn't it cover the range for all other engines, new and old? Some manufacturers may not have done sufficient research and/or are extremely conservative.

Manuals for many new gas engines are recommending 5w20 for all seasons. This is what I had Ford put into my Mom's Escort.

Ralph

 

[excelagator]

Auto makers are "nickel and diming" new engines to get better gas mileage. That made be why the reason for 5-20wt in an Escort. To me that just sounds thin. Does it require a higher second weight in warmer temps.

The Mobil 1 0-30wt I ran was the green jug on the rack stating, "better gas mileage". Now mind you it was on the shelf at wally world past summer. I tried it, no noticeable MPGs for me!

Most of our engines are between 1-10 years old. Nissan Maxima, Xterra, and Silverado. Those engines run with 5-30wt year round. Our (Opps Her's) Miata runs 10-30wt. I believe multi-grade weights oil depends on engine design and probably engine mass in some cases. Although I am not a oil expert, I just get alot of oil on my wrenches.

Dan