5310 tachometer is faulty

[lawrie]

G'day, I recently purchased this 5310 at a deceased estate auction.
Previously owned by one farmer, I just had to have it, regardless of any faults.
Niggling fault is the tachometer, which only 'comes alive' at full lever throttle, when it reads steady at 2500 rpm.
Occasionally it 'comes alive' at full foot throttle (when the throttle lever is set lower) and reads 1700rpm, but flickers a lot.
Any backing off either throttle causes the needle to swing back to zero.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Lawrie

 

[JD5210]

The problem is one of three things: The speed sensor, sometimes call magnetic-pick up, part number RE19144. It is located in front of the injection pump, go to JDparts.com, then go to parts catalog, you can see where it is located. The wiring, two wires come from the sensor a black and a green (325), the green wire runs into the back of the cluster. The last is the tach itself, note if the tach is bad, the whole cluster has to be replaced.

First I would make sure the sensor has not come loose, screw it in by hand, then only about 1/8 of a turn with the wrench. With an ohm meter you can test the wiring. When working on electrical things, I suggest you remove the negative cable from the battery, I normally remove were the negative cable attaches to the frame, a lot easier than taking it off the battery.

On the cluster, if you take the cluster out of the of plastic frame that it is in when putting back in make sure each screw has equal pressure to avoid breaking the glass. If you do replace the cluster, yours has a switch for 3 or 4 cyl (you might check to make sure the switch is in 3 cyl), the new ones need to be programmed for 3 cyl (they come from JD programmed for 4). So who ever you buy it from, see if they will program it for you, so you do not need to buy the kit for this.

Do not know how many hours on it, but check the free play on the clutch. If it is MFWD, with the clutch in and just a little roll makes it a lot easier to get in and note.

Here is the online manual if you did not get one.
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE71736_19/

Here is some URLs on the 5X10 that you may find informative.

Leaking Fuel Cap : Solve a leaky fuel cap on some older 5000 series tractors
Loose Muffler on Some 5000 Tractors : Quick fix for loose mufflers or exhaust leaks on certain 5000 series tractors.
Instrument Panel Fogs Up : Fog forms inside instrument panel on some 5000 series tractors, making it hard to read gauges
Tire Tips for 5000 Tractors : Answers to common questions regarding 5000 series tractor tires
Clutch Slip on 5000 Series Tractors : Learn the importance of checking and maintaining proper clutch alignment
Transmission Creep : Tractor ?creeps? forward with gear lever in neutral
Bucket Cylinders do not Extend Equally : Bucket cylinders and loader quick attach brackets are held in alignment by the timing rod.
Mechanical Front Wheel Drive tire recommendations for best performance
Model Year of 5000 Series Tractors : What year was my 5000 series tractor built?
Bent Cylinder Rods : Follow these simple steps to prevent bending hydraulic cylinder rods
Front End Noise : Gear backlash causes noise on 5000 series tractors

This is a John Deere manual on the engine.
http://www.visaevolution.com/dati_sito/manuali/officina/motori/john deere/ctm125-3029-ENG.pdf

John Deere parts
John Deere - Parts Catalog
If you sign up on this site, you can get prices and availability at a John Deere dealer https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned

 

[lawrie]

Thanks a lot JD5210. I've located the speed sensor with the two wires as you describe. It is not loose. I cannot do more checks until the weekend.
Not sure if its related at all, but the fuel gauge needle swings way over to the right when the ignition is turned on, to about one inch past the full mark, to slightly below horizontal. When turned off, it returns to about the half full mark.
I have replaced the alternator that was not working.
Cheers

 

[JD5210]

Most likely not the problem, but it would not hurt to remove the speed sensor and insure the bottom is clean.

Can you provide a picture of the instrument cluster. The original cluster when you turn the key just to run the fuel gauge moves to show how much fuel is in the tank, the tach does nothing and the engine temp gauge moves to the temp of the engine. The new ones when the key is just in the run/start position the fuel/tach/temp go all the way to the right, then show the amount of fuel, tach at zero and temp of engine. Here is a youtube video I found of how the new ones look and operate.

What I seen both versions of the cluster the fuel gauge goes to empty when the key is off.

Here is how to test the fuel gauge. Key off, move the seat forward all the way, put a towel down in case you drop the nuts. Remove the two wires; a black and orange wire, there should be 353 on the orange wire. Turn the key to run (no need to start) touch the two wires together, the gauge should go to full. If not the gauge or wiring is the problem. If the gauge goes to full the problem is the sender.

If you want to test the sending unit the ohm range is 4.5 to 97.5 ohms. Double check JDparts.com, the fuel sender is part number RE190977. Replace with less than a half tank of fuel. It also helps to put some sealer on the gasket to keep it from leaking.

new tractor john deere 5410 - YouTube

 

[rackmaster2]

good information, I have a 5410 that has been failing on the rpm part, but sometimes it will come on.
I had taken it apart, to look for lose connections, the whole circuit board is sealed in glue.
its a pain to take apart.
I replaced the stepper motor and it did not correct, so i sent to a ag tech,
he tested and the rpm worked good, if i were tech smart i should have done that.
Ill check the sender and see if that will fix it.