Canopy 5020 roll guard installation

[marcin]

Hi all,

I recently bought an original roll gard for my 5020. I have the row crop version fenders which are currently mounted on their proper brackets. The fenders do not have cut outs. I understand that the vertical bars of the roll gard is supposed to fit in these cut-outs but how are the fenders attached? There are no bolt holes in the vertical bars. I appreciate your input.

 

[Zebrafive]

What do you mean by "cut outs"? On the newer 50 series the lower vertical part of the ROPS has tabs on the front back edges to bolt the fenders to. The fenders are not different for them (with or with out ROPS). There is a piece (spacer) that goes between the ROPS and fender. This on the newer series. I am not sure how 5020s were. I would assume the fender mount just stacks on the ROPS base?

 

[marcin]

This is on the 1968 5020.

 

[jenkinsph]

Just guessing here but are the cut outs you speak of on the base plates for the fenders? You might have to notch the base plates to fit on the rops mountings. When I added a factory rops to my smaller 820 I moved the fenders and mounting plates outward and then bolted the rops mountings in place.

If it were me I would see if the fender base mounts had enough clearance around the rops up rights. I would be very careful not to cut out more than needed to fit. Don't want to weaken the fender mountings.

 

[Zebrafive]

Here is a drawing of how JD did it on the newer tractors. The ROPS has tabs an spacers go between the fenders and ROPS. I think you could fab something up, straps on the inside of the ROPS, spacer between the ROP and fender and some nuts, washers, and bolts

 

[marcin]

I finally got around to installing the roll gard and fenders on the 5020. I had to make some modifications to the fenders:

- I cut out holes (I used a template from another 5020 owner) that the vertical bars pass through
- I cut off the inner 2 brackets on each fender as these were not wide enough to allow the vertical bars to pass through
- I added another drill hole and clamped the fender to the vertical post with a metal bar - it is very solid

I think the fenders look good overall. They seem a little high, do not bother me enough to shorten them though. The nice thing about this set-up is that I can bring the wheel in closer as needed. I have to do some paint touch up and find a canopy next. Does anyone know if the 4020 canopy will fit or is it too narrow? Thank you for the info.

 

[beenthere]

Are these pics in triplicate or should we look for some subtle differences between each set of three?

Looks like a fine build.

 

[jenkinsph]

marcin,
That 5020 is really coming along. You have done a great job with it and put in a lot of time and money. :thumbsup:
Glad to see that you are getting past the engine/transmission/guts and moving on to simpler items. Can't wait to see pictures when you are done. I could use one of these myself.

 

[marcin]

Thanks. I have definitely spent much more time and money than I ever anticipated. I keep telling myself that it will payoff in the long-term - I guess we will see.

There are a few things left: some body work, rebuild of the steering valve and electrical.

That brings me to the question. My current electrical situation is very simple: alternator, battery, starter and ignition switch connections only. I would like to upgrade this to include: lights, engine oil pressure, alternator, horn. I found harnesses on the web but the set-up would cost me almost 1K. I would like to try and do this myself, but really have no electrical experience. Is it doable? Are there any helpful diagrams? Thanks again.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks. I have definitely spent much more time and money than I ever anticipated. I keep telling myself that it will payoff in the long-term - I guess we will see.

There are a few things left: some body work, rebuild of the steering valve and electrical.

That brings me to the question. My current electrical situation is very simple: alternator, battery, starter and ignition switch connections only. I would like to upgrade this to include: lights, engine oil pressure, alternator, horn. I found harnesses on the web but the set-up would cost me almost 1K. I would like to try and do this myself, but really have no electrical experience. Is it doable? Are there any helpful diagrams? Thanks again.

The wiring is simple enough that you should be able to build up a new harness easily. Not really much harness to it. I have rewired several older tractors 4020,3020, 820 andCase 1370. With simple remove and replace technique you should be able to do this. The last one I reworked was an 820 diesel and the new wiring was better than original. On the 820 I eliminated the crappy fuse panel and used inline fuses and that eliminated the chronic problems with poor connections. I bought the wire for the project from Bestboatwire.com and used their tinned copper wiring for everything. They have the terminals and connectors along with the heat shrink to make long lasting connections. The battery wiring is the more costly item but the tinned copper is well worth it to me. This just about eliminates wiring corrosion too.

Use some paper tags or tape you can write on to ID each lead and where it goes back. You would have to keep track of the leads whether you buy or build your own. Good luck with it.