Ok guys listen up. Got a 2012 Mahindra 4wd 4025. 4 wheel drive not working. Raised front end turned tire and other one spun backwards. Pulled forward and backwards out put shaft on bottom of tranny to front drive shaft not spinning. Sometimes I think its engaging and others, I dont when I move manuel 4wd lever. Also adjusted turn buckle linkage. Any ideas?
Traction 4WD BROKE?
- Thread starter MutzFarm
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PILOON
Super Star Member
Turning one wheel in one direction making the opposite one turn the other way confirms the differential is OK.
Look elsewhere like U joints shear, pins and even perhaps 4wd shifting forks.
Good luck.
Look elsewhere like U joints shear, pins and even perhaps 4wd shifting forks.
Good luck.
SPYDERLK
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Are both ends of that drive shaft not spinning? ... The shaft should always turn as the front wheels roll. If the shaft is broken in the middle, or decoupled somehow, the rearward segment would not necessarily turn unless 4wd is engaged and the rears were rolling. -- I have broken that drive shaft on my 7520.
burzynsr
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It should be under warranty.
1stDeuce
Gold Member
Try your experiment again, but only jack up one front tire. If you can spin that tire by hand in 4wd, (it will try and turn the driveshaft) then you have issues... If you can't spin it in 2wd, issues as well. Could be linkage out of adjustment, or if it's been out of adjustment for a while, you may have rounded the engagement dog teeth or whatever is in there.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
dickfoster
Elite Member
One wheel up should spin the driveshaft and if it's in 2WD it should be free to spin since 4WD engagement is in the rear. However if both front tires are off the ground the opposite wheel should spin in the opposite direction though the differential. Or with the wheels off the ground you could spin the driveshaft by hand and one wheel should spin if you hold the other wheel still in 2WD.
That's a lot of trouble to find out if 4wd Is working... put the loader against a tree and put it in low 2... let off and if its in 4wd it will spin the front tires along with the back...
oh.... a large tree is recommended .. I use the loading dock since its on gravel
oh.... a large tree is recommended .. I use the loading dock since its on gravel
Gary Fowler
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Contact your dealer before you go messing with it. It should have at least 5 year warranty on powertrain.
Gary Fowler
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If you cant determine if the 4 WD is working, the best way is to lower the FEL till the front wheels are off the ground then back drag the FEL. If it is working, the front wheels will turn (one or both ) . You may have broken front drive shaft if it isn't working. I broke the one on my LS once when pulling a stump and the chain broke. I think the sudden release of pent up energy is what sheared the shaft.
DavesTractor
Elite Member
Another pretty easy way to check 4wd in most tractors is doing a brake test on gravel or dirt. In 2wd you will slide the rear tires and it is surprising how long it takes to stop from 10 mph. In 4wd it will nearly throw you over the steering wheel.
This doesn't work with true 4-wheel brakes like on a Deutz-Fahr, but I do not know of any Mahindra tractors with brakes on the front axle.
This doesn't work with true 4-wheel brakes like on a Deutz-Fahr, but I do not know of any Mahindra tractors with brakes on the front axle.
Sorry guys been busy.
Brought it home today. The rack and pinion in the front axle where the shaft part sticks out to couple to the drive shaft spun smooth and all other splines all the way back to the tranny was wore good. They say it was wearing like that for a while. They replaced everything from tranny to the rack and pinion in the axle including the rack and pinion. It was under warranty thank GOD!!! Doesnt make sense to me. There was never a Bang, Pop, Snap, or anything. Just quit working. Guy that wrote it up said he had never seen one do that as long as he been there. How long has he been there? A day? A month? I dunno. When I took it to the dealer it did start a bit of grinding. Also no the drive shaft did not spin when I was doing all these checks and a matter of fact I never noticed the out put shaft on the tranny ever spinning either when I had my wife move it for me. Frustrating, but happy to have it back as I was worried bout losing customers and not keeping up with our own farm chores was starting to be a pain. Yesterday was 2 weeks it was at the dealer. I guess ok turn around. I dropped it off on a Wednesday and they had it tore down and parts delivered by The following Monday, but still took over a week after parts. Oh well, but we are back in the saddle again.
Brought it home today. The rack and pinion in the front axle where the shaft part sticks out to couple to the drive shaft spun smooth and all other splines all the way back to the tranny was wore good. They say it was wearing like that for a while. They replaced everything from tranny to the rack and pinion in the axle including the rack and pinion. It was under warranty thank GOD!!! Doesnt make sense to me. There was never a Bang, Pop, Snap, or anything. Just quit working. Guy that wrote it up said he had never seen one do that as long as he been there. How long has he been there? A day? A month? I dunno. When I took it to the dealer it did start a bit of grinding. Also no the drive shaft did not spin when I was doing all these checks and a matter of fact I never noticed the out put shaft on the tranny ever spinning either when I had my wife move it for me. Frustrating, but happy to have it back as I was worried bout losing customers and not keeping up with our own farm chores was starting to be a pain. Yesterday was 2 weeks it was at the dealer. I guess ok turn around. I dropped it off on a Wednesday and they had it tore down and parts delivered by The following Monday, but still took over a week after parts. Oh well, but we are back in the saddle again.
DavesTractor
Elite Member
Just for clarity, when you say rack and pinion, I think you mean ring and pinion. They are always replaced as a set, so if the splines stripped off the pinion gear, the proper repair is to replace the ring gear also. 2 weeks isn't bad for that repair, I do not know of any dealer that would stock a ring/pinion set on their shelves. It's normal to have to order something like that.
dickfoster
Elite Member
Be sure to break in the new gear set properly then change the axle oil. Gear sets have to wear themselves together, called lapping in. Keep the loading low and no shock loads. They tend to run hotter than normal until they are broken in so stop and let them cool down occasionally. When it stops running hot, they are broken in so that is when you change the oil.
For cars and trucks they say so many miles then stop but that's hard to do with a tractor. I use temperature anyway because it's more accurate that miles. The thermocouple that comes with many DMMs is a handy tool for this kind of thing.
SPYDERLK
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Yes. We have to get the nomenclature issue straightened out. Too many opportunities to misinterpret what OP is trying to convey. ... Unfortunately, only the person that fixed it knows everything.
Qapla
Veteran Member
Just a thought ....
Do you use 4WD when you are on pavement? If you do, DON'T - it is a good way to strip the splines or even break the shaft (don't ask how we know this)
Make sure you only use 4WD wen you are on "soft" surfaces - not "hard" ones
Do you use 4WD when you are on pavement? If you do, DON'T - it is a good way to strip the splines or even break the shaft (don't ask how we know this)
Make sure you only use 4WD wen you are on "soft" surfaces - not "hard" ones
DavesTractor
Elite Member
Tell me about it! It can drive a guy nuts when people order parts over the phone. We often say "snap a picture of the part and send it to us". Because honestly, a lot of the parts are not so easy to put a name on. Ring gear and pinion is easy enough, but lots of tractor parts are not so simple to "name".
SPYDERLK
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Yes! -- And you with sophistication on the matter, Im sure have run into the problem ordering from someone less experienced - and you not knowing how its named in their parts book. ... "It should have a this on one side of it, and a that on the other-right before the washer/shim/spacer and the circlip/keeper." ...
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dickfoster
Elite Member
Whatcamacallit that's right next to the thingahmajig doesn't work?
PILOON
Super Star Member
Excellent advice!
Fronts always are 10-15% 'faster' than the rear so the front literally drags the whole (heavy) tractor around, and that being said the front is simply not really up to the job on its own.
Only when the front threads are well worn down do both front and rear pull equally.
Best is to only engage frt drive when you lose traction with rears, otherwise do not engage the front.
And in passing that also goes for 4 x 4 trucks, (busted a few axles over the years)
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