4720H not starting

[rasorbackq]

Morning Guys and Gals. Was doing some back hoe work in the field yesterday. Very low on fuel. Needed to move tractor back to barn to move food for animals this morning.
Started it up drove the km back to barn. Moved a couple bins around . Shifted from 1st to second and the tractor died. Was sitting on a little angle to the right side . Thought I may be sucking air from tank. Dumped in 5 gallons of fuel Just cranks over and over and over. Dropped the white fuel bowl full of fuel. Filter looks clean . Did find a washer type disk on top of the filter . Not sure whys it was there?
Dumped the fuel out reattached the bowl and still didn't start. Dropped bowl again. Full of fuel. On the fuel bowl area there is a looks like a fuel shut off. Where should the lever be? When I found it it was down.
What do I do Next??

 

[rasorbackq]

Found my owners manual. . Says to move the lever up throttle on full and crank for 10 secs. Still no luck.
My neighbor says it could be air locked from bowl to motor.
Not sure how to remove air from the injectors. Pouring outside my so not happening now.

 

[LouNY]

Crack loose the nuts on the line and crank till air is gone and fuel squirts out.
There may also be a bleeder on the fuel injection pump.
Does your tractor gravity flow to the injection pump,
or do you have a primer pump (hand) inline.

 

[Roadworthy]

Your owner's manual should give instructions how to bleed air from the system and where the bleed points are located. Many small tractors are gravity fed to the fuel pump and will not suck fuel on their own. They can't pull the air out to put it through the injectors.

 

[rasorbackq]

So the dealer wasn't sure which way the valve should be to run . After removing the fuel line from filter it needs to be down to run. . Now I have a fuel leak at the clamp. Need to buy a new clamp tomorrow.
Here is the write up from book.

 

[rasorbackq]

Crack loose the nuts on the line and crank till air is gone and fuel squirts out.
There may also be a bleeder on the fuel injection pump.
Does your tractor gravity flow to the injection pump,
or do you have a primer pump (hand) inline.

It must pump to the filter as I had the filter off and fuel didn't run all over the place. Didn't see a primer

 

[Cougsfan]

I have a 4720CH which has a smaller 9 gallon fuel tank than the 4720, and it sometimes runs out of fuel on a side hill when there is still 3 or 4 gallons of fuel in the tank. (it only does this when I am as far away as can be from the shop where I keep my fuel.) I have also just flat ran it out of fuel a couple of times. Anyhow, mine always re-primes itself when I dump fuel in the tank and starts right up after cranking it about 10 seconds, so I am not sure what to tell you what is different between your tractor and mine. But I'd follow Lou's suggestion for bleeding the injectors. I have to do that on my old Ferguson when it runs out of diesel. Another thing that works well on the Ferguson is to tow it to start it after it runs out of fuel. Sometimes that is easier than re-priming.

 

[rasorbackq]

Crack loose the nuts on the line and crank till air is gone and fuel squirts out.
There may also be a bleeder on the fuel injection pump.
Does your tractor gravity flow to the injection pump,
or do you have a primer pump (hand) inline.

Dealer told me not to open the fuel lines at the injectors as that works on older tractor but is not required on these new tractors. Before I was told that I craCKED THEM OPEN BUT NO FUEL was sent to the injectors.

 

[rasorbackq]

I have a 4720CH which has a smaller 9 gallon fuel tank than the 4720, and it sometimes runs out of fuel on a side hill when there is still 3 or 4 gallons of fuel in the tank. (it only does this when I am as far away as can be from the shop where I keep my fuel.) I have also just flat ran it out of fuel a couple of times. Anyhow, mine always re-primes itself when I dump fuel in the tank and starts right up after cranking it about 10 seconds, so I am not sure what to tell you what is different between your tractor and mine. But I'd follow Lou's suggestion for bleeding the injectors. I have to do that on my old Ferguson when it runs out of diesel. Another thing that works well on the Ferguson is to tow it to start it after it runs out of fuel. Sometimes that is easier than re-priming.

I did the same thing before in a ditch with low fuel. Just topped it up and off I went.

 

[LouNY]

From the service manual;

Air bleeding: The fuel system runs from the fuel
tank through the fuel filter, fuel injection pump
and high pressure piping, to the injector. Fuel
is not injected if there is air in the fuel system.
Bleed the air according to the following steps.
1) Loosen the air bleeding screw at top of the fuel
filter until foamy. And then put the clothes near
the air bleeding screw for prevent overflow fuel.
2) If fuel doesn’t include bubbles, tighten the air
bleeding screw.

When you loosen the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter do you get fuel flow from it?
Attached is a section of the 20 series manual, it talks about the procedure to bleed the system under various conditions.

 

[rasorbackq]

Screwed around some today on this thing.
Neighbor came over . Verified we had fuel at the input to pump Cracked one nut on injector key on no fuel . Then he read the post from LouNY and he seen the electrical shut off. He said from the first look it does seem like the pump is coming on. . Checked the fused and the fuel shut off was blown. Replaced with cruise control fuse 10 Amp fired right up. Lots of smoke but all ok after about 20 seconds. Now just have to get a good clamp to stop a fuel leak off the bowl.
Thanks louNY for the input and writeup.

 

[LouNY]

Welcome;
good to hear shes up and running

 

[rasorbackq]

Drove in 25 ft and blew the fuse again.
. Nice and sunny this morning so will look into the wire or replace it.

 

[LouNY]

Some times it seems to never end

 

[rasorbackq]

So to close this file. I removed the nut from the electrical shut off pulled the end back towards the fuel filter . There was copper wire showing . It had worn through the wire housing. So I taped it up and inserted in a split tubing for trailer lights wiring Then the fun started ..... There was very little room to get the terminal nut back on with just 2 fingers and no site line I few misses and nut was gone a couple times . Did manage to find it each time .. So the electrical was taken care of.

Now the fuel leak. Must say louNY the diagrams you posted the fuel injection system was the same but the fuel filter assembly was not even close. I didn't have a drain in the bottom and the top didn't have a hand primer. So for others if your is like mine the fuel output elbow is not threaded. Its just pushed in the hole and glued with a looked like epoxy. Since I had a hard time with screw driver and hammer to remove the hose after clamp was off I broke the seal on the elbow I sealed it again with SEAL ALL product . Great around fuels and oils in the tube says.
I applied let it sit for 2 hrs I found the fuel line was not tight on the elbow . and had a possible leak there. I wound some teflon tape on it say maybe 10 turns and then the hose was tight . Applied clamp. Let ur ripe. No leaks . Cross my fingers.

One more note:
The washer in the first pic seemed to fit inside the fuel filter cap . Not sure if it was supposed to be glued Buts it back in there also.