4310 won't go, engine and hydr OK.

ChrisNJ · May 30, 2006

4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

'02-4310 ehydro. engine runs and hydraulics work fine. initially got a 'both peddles pressed' code and get this alot, so normally just let them go back to normal and it resets itself and off i go. this time i go the code, but it won't reset and no go forward or reverse. turn tractor off, back on, and if i just hit forward it goes, as soon as i touch reverse same problem, no go. i think, maybe peddles are somehow thinking one's on and therefore won;t reset, have the tech. manual, did the calabration routine, which recalibrates peddles, throttle, and something called forward and reverse valves. i can go through whole routine fine untill i get to the last step whcih is reverse valve and whole system goes into error. now tractor won't go either way, i'm assuming cause i can't complete the re-cal? dealer said he has 2 week backup. any help?

ChrisNJ · May 30, 2006

4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

'02-4310 ehydro. engine runs and hydraulics work fine. initially got a 'both peddles pressed' code and get this alot, so normally just let them go back to normal and it resets itself and off i go. this time i go the code, but it won't reset and no go forward or reverse. turn tractor off, back on, and if i just hit forward it goes, as soon as i touch reverse same problem, no go. i think, maybe peddles are somehow thinking one's on and therefore won;t reset, have the tech. manual, did the calabration routine, which recalibrates peddles, throttle, and something called forward and reverse valves. i can go through whole routine fine untill i get to the last step whcih is reverse valve and whole system goes into error. now tractor won't go either way, i'm assuming cause i can't complete the re-cal? dealer said he has 2 week backup. any help?

beenthere · May 30, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

I'd try to discuss the calibration with the Deere mechanic. Seems unfortunate that it will be two weeks to get a fix. My dealer's mechanics are great to talk to, and helpful if I show willingness to learn what is needed and to give it a try. Go over the final steps with them, and you may find out their is a slightly different interpretation of the procedure.
You may find out, that there is a computer upgrade or re-programming needed. My mechanic said the e-hydros have been rock solid after some early model re-programming was done.
Wish you luck, and solution soon.

beenthere · May 30, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

I'd try to discuss the calibration with the Deere mechanic. Seems unfortunate that it will be two weeks to get a fix. My dealer's mechanics are great to talk to, and helpful if I show willingness to learn what is needed and to give it a try. Go over the final steps with them, and you may find out their is a slightly different interpretation of the procedure.
You may find out, that there is a computer upgrade or re-programming needed. My mechanic said the e-hydros have been rock solid after some early model re-programming was done.
Wish you luck, and solution soon.

ChrisNJ · May 30, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

thanks a ton. my unit got a new computer very early on, and has been perfect since.
I just was able to complete, or so i think, the calibration procedure, and the last step which is rear valve cal. actually did what the book said it would which is 'the tire moves'. so i was optomistic that i finally got it, BUT the valve code that tells me to do the step just keeps blinking with no instruction after that. so i didn't know what to do, just turned it off and on again, and still nothing. so for the lack of knowing how the procedure ends i'm still sol. and after turning it off and on again, it's blinking 'pedels pressed together' again, but won't reset, so no movement. odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am!

ChrisNJ · May 30, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

thanks a ton. my unit got a new computer very early on, and has been perfect since.
I just was able to complete, or so i think, the calibration procedure, and the last step which is rear valve cal. actually did what the book said it would which is 'the tire moves'. so i was optomistic that i finally got it, BUT the valve code that tells me to do the step just keeps blinking with no instruction after that. so i didn't know what to do, just turned it off and on again, and still nothing. so for the lack of knowing how the procedure ends i'm still sol. and after turning it off and on again, it's blinking 'pedels pressed together' again, but won't reset, so no movement. odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am!

plowrup · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

Here you go-

Complaint or Symptom:
The e-HST calibration procedure in the Technical Manual is hard to follow.

Problem or Situation:
Follow the procedure below.

Solution:
Do Not Calibrate the complete system if it is not needed. The only time the complete system needs to be calibrated is when the: Proportional Valve, Proportional Valve Coil, Drive Controller or complete Hydrostatic transmission has been changed Note: The system will not calibrate if the system has a problem.

Tractor Set-up

- Key in "off" position

- Tractor on jack stands.

- Range in A

- MFWD "off"

- Check that rear wheels can spin freely (no brake drag etc.)

- The Footdeck must be fully installed

- Verify engine idle is set at 950 (+or–) 25RPM

- Verify engine full throttle is 2810 (+or –) 25RPM

Procedure: Enter calibration mode

1. Move fuse from F9 to F10 54179_1.jpg position. (If the original position of the calibration fuse is in the F9 position) Move fuse from F11 to F12 54179_3.jpg position (If the original position of the calibration fuse is in the F11 position)

2. Start tractor and firmly adjust the throttle lever to the idle position with the operator on seat.

3. Fault light should be on solid.

• If on: Go to step 4

• If not on:

• Verify that the correct fuse has been moved per the steps above.

• Test the wiring circuit from the drive controller to the indicator light.

• Test the power and ground circuit to the drive controller.

4. Move fuse from F10 to F9 or F12 to F11 position (See links @ step 1).

Calibrate forward pedal potentiometer

5. Fault light will display (.-..) only, wait 5 seconds. If the light remains solid post moving the fuse test the following: • Test the frequency of the engine speed sensor per the technical manual. Refer to DTAC solution 61940 if the unit does not have an engine speed sensor and reference DTAC solution 57661.

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the engine speed sensor or alternator to the drive controller connector.

6. Fully depress forward pedal; hold for 5 seconds then release pedal.

7. Fault light should display (--..) only

• If so: Go to step 8

• If not test the following:

A. The forward pedal potentiometers voltage range is not within specifications (See DTAC solution 55289).

B. Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the forward pedal potentiometer to the drive controller connector.

Calibrate reverse pedal potentiometer

8. Fully depress reverse pedal; hold for 5 seconds then release pedal.

9. Fault light should display (…-) only

• If so: Go to step 10

• If not test the following:

A. The reverse pedal potentiometers voltage range is not within specifications (See DTAC solution 55289).

B. Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the reverse pedal potentiometer to the drive controller connector.

Calibrate throttle potentiometer

10. Move throttle lever to full throttle and wait 5 seconds. Leave lever at full throttle for the remainder of the procedure.

11. Fault light should display (. - - -) only

• If so: Go to step 12

• If not test the following:

A. The throttle lever potentiometers voltage range is not within specifications (See DTAC solution 55289).

B. Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the throttle lever potentiometer to the drive controller connector.

C. Review DTAC solution 59600.

Calibrate forward proportional valve threshold

12. Fully depress forward pedal until rear wheel moves slightly and stops.

A. If after 25 seconds there has been no wheel movement, check the following:

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the forward proportional valve to the drive controller connector.

• Verify 12 VDC at the X25 connecter wire number 539 white with the operator on the seat.

• Hydraulic charge pressure to hydro per the technical manual.

B. If after 25 seconds the wheels continue to rotate, check the following:

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the MFWD speed sensor to the drive controller connector.

• Replace the (LVU11184) MFWD speed sensor as required. See DTAC solution 57661.

13. Release pedal.

14. Fault light should display (. - - -) only.

Calibrate reverse proportional valve threshold

15. Fully depress reverse pedal until rear wheel moves slightly. If after 25 seconds there has been no wheel movement, check the following:

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the reverse proportional valve to the drive controller connector.

• Test the resistance of the reverse proportional valve coil per the technical manual.

16. Release pedal.

17. No fault light should be displayed.

• If so end of procedure.

• If not: verify Tractor Set-up and repeat the procedure once more

Hope this helps-

plowrup · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

Here you go-

Complaint or Symptom:
The e-HST calibration procedure in the Technical Manual is hard to follow.

Problem or Situation:
Follow the procedure below.

Solution:
Do Not Calibrate the complete system if it is not needed. The only time the complete system needs to be calibrated is when the: Proportional Valve, Proportional Valve Coil, Drive Controller or complete Hydrostatic transmission has been changed Note: The system will not calibrate if the system has a problem.

Tractor Set-up

- Key in "off" position

- Tractor on jack stands.

- Range in A

- MFWD "off"

- Check that rear wheels can spin freely (no brake drag etc.)

- The Footdeck must be fully installed

- Verify engine idle is set at 950 (+or–) 25RPM

- Verify engine full throttle is 2810 (+or –) 25RPM

Procedure: Enter calibration mode

1. Move fuse from F9 to F10 54179_1.jpg position. (If the original position of the calibration fuse is in the F9 position) Move fuse from F11 to F12 54179_3.jpg position (If the original position of the calibration fuse is in the F11 position)

2. Start tractor and firmly adjust the throttle lever to the idle position with the operator on seat.

3. Fault light should be on solid.

• If on: Go to step 4

• If not on:

• Verify that the correct fuse has been moved per the steps above.

• Test the wiring circuit from the drive controller to the indicator light.

• Test the power and ground circuit to the drive controller.

4. Move fuse from F10 to F9 or F12 to F11 position (See links @ step 1).

Calibrate forward pedal potentiometer

5. Fault light will display (.-..) only, wait 5 seconds. If the light remains solid post moving the fuse test the following: • Test the frequency of the engine speed sensor per the technical manual. Refer to DTAC solution 61940 if the unit does not have an engine speed sensor and reference DTAC solution 57661.

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the engine speed sensor or alternator to the drive controller connector.

6. Fully depress forward pedal; hold for 5 seconds then release pedal.

7. Fault light should display (--..) only

• If so: Go to step 8

• If not test the following:

A. The forward pedal potentiometers voltage range is not within specifications (See DTAC solution 55289).

B. Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the forward pedal potentiometer to the drive controller connector.

Calibrate reverse pedal potentiometer

8. Fully depress reverse pedal; hold for 5 seconds then release pedal.

9. Fault light should display (…-) only

• If so: Go to step 10

• If not test the following:

A. The reverse pedal potentiometers voltage range is not within specifications (See DTAC solution 55289).

B. Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the reverse pedal potentiometer to the drive controller connector.

Calibrate throttle potentiometer

10. Move throttle lever to full throttle and wait 5 seconds. Leave lever at full throttle for the remainder of the procedure.

11. Fault light should display (. - - -) only

• If so: Go to step 12

• If not test the following:

A. The throttle lever potentiometers voltage range is not within specifications (See DTAC solution 55289).

B. Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the throttle lever potentiometer to the drive controller connector.

C. Review DTAC solution 59600.

Calibrate forward proportional valve threshold

12. Fully depress forward pedal until rear wheel moves slightly and stops.

A. If after 25 seconds there has been no wheel movement, check the following:

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the forward proportional valve to the drive controller connector.

• Verify 12 VDC at the X25 connecter wire number 539 white with the operator on the seat.

• Hydraulic charge pressure to hydro per the technical manual.

B. If after 25 seconds the wheels continue to rotate, check the following:

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the MFWD speed sensor to the drive controller connector.

• Replace the (LVU11184) MFWD speed sensor as required. See DTAC solution 57661.

13. Release pedal.

14. Fault light should display (. - - -) only.

Calibrate reverse proportional valve threshold

15. Fully depress reverse pedal until rear wheel moves slightly. If after 25 seconds there has been no wheel movement, check the following:

• Isolate and test the wiring (ohms & continuity) from the reverse proportional valve to the drive controller connector.

• Test the resistance of the reverse proportional valve coil per the technical manual.

16. Release pedal.

17. No fault light should be displayed.

• If so end of procedure.

• If not: verify Tractor Set-up and repeat the procedure once more

Hope this helps-

ChrisNJ · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

thanks plowrup. it is the same as in the book(yours is more descriptive though), except for me after #16, the .--- stays on and this is what i didn't understand, however your description says the light should go off which it doesn't. i have checked the rear proprotial valve wiring and coil resisitance and it appears all is correct. one of the rear proportianal valves wires appears to have been stretched from the brake arm. this may be something and I have an Electical engr. freind coming over tonight to help me. what's still weird is that when i'm NOT in the calibration mode i'm getting .--- which is 'both peddles pressed'. this may be why i can't calibrate cause it says you can't have any codes before you calibrate. but i have no idea how to clear this code first. i'm gonna try disconnecting battery and see what happens.???

ChrisNJ · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

thanks plowrup. it is the same as in the book(yours is more descriptive though), except for me after #16, the .--- stays on and this is what i didn't understand, however your description says the light should go off which it doesn't. i have checked the rear proprotial valve wiring and coil resisitance and it appears all is correct. one of the rear proportianal valves wires appears to have been stretched from the brake arm. this may be something and I have an Electical engr. freind coming over tonight to help me. what's still weird is that when i'm NOT in the calibration mode i'm getting .--- which is 'both peddles pressed'. this may be why i can't calibrate cause it says you can't have any codes before you calibrate. but i have no idea how to clear this code first. i'm gonna try disconnecting battery and see what happens.???

ChrisNJ · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

disconnected battery and it still won't clear the 'peddles pressed together' code. i'm lost

ChrisNJ · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

disconnected battery and it still won't clear the 'peddles pressed together' code. i'm lost

TMcD_in_MI · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

( odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am! )

Chris, I don't know that this will help you any, but according to the chart in my 4310 shop manual, the fault code (9) for both pedals pressed is long-short-short-short, the exact opposite of fault code 10: forward or reverse coil error. I get code 10 sometimes when I am using my loader, but it resets when I shut the tractor off, unlike yours. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Good luck and please keep us posted.

Tom

TMcD_in_MI · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

( odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am! )

Chris, I don't know that this will help you any, but according to the chart in my 4310 shop manual, the fault code (9) for both pedals pressed is long-short-short-short, the exact opposite of fault code 10: forward or reverse coil error. I get code 10 sometimes when I am using my loader, but it resets when I shut the tractor off, unlike yours. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Good luck and please keep us posted.

Tom

ChrisNJ · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

maybe i read it wrong! i hope so, cause after all the checking i've done, i'm leaning toward the f-r coil error as the culprit. the wires go into the trans area. i'm hoping i can get to them to complete the book test (have to actually touch them with a probe) by removing the trans cover?? they do check out doing the ohm test though. also, are the f-r coils connected to the 'f-r propertioning valves'? sounds like it doesn't it? looks like very complicated valves and again hoping i can get to them?

ChrisNJ · May 31, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

maybe i read it wrong! i hope so, cause after all the checking i've done, i'm leaning toward the f-r coil error as the culprit. the wires go into the trans area. i'm hoping i can get to them to complete the book test (have to actually touch them with a probe) by removing the trans cover?? they do check out doing the ohm test though. also, are the f-r coils connected to the 'f-r propertioning valves'? sounds like it doesn't it? looks like very complicated valves and again hoping i can get to them?

ChrisNJ · Jun 1, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

yes, it was code 10, *--- , i can get to the valve under the trans cover. i removed the coil easily and it checks out ok. haven't taken the valve out though. it is $550 for the valve and $200 for the coil so i don't want to buy it on a hunch. how does the computer know that there is a problem if the coil is OK? even if the valve is broken or stuck, i don't see how the coil can 'transmit' it's position back to the puter? i'm gonna have to wait (1-2 weeks) for the dealer to see it, maybe his diagnostic tools are they way to go. dealer said he's never seen a valve failure, thinks i could be pleasantly supirsed that their tools find somehting stupid/easy. in the meantime i might attempt to remove the valve to see if there is anything obvious. i wish there was an 'all reset' on the puter.

ChrisNJ · Jun 1, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

yes, it was code 10, *--- , i can get to the valve under the trans cover. i removed the coil easily and it checks out ok. haven't taken the valve out though. it is $550 for the valve and $200 for the coil so i don't want to buy it on a hunch. how does the computer know that there is a problem if the coil is OK? even if the valve is broken or stuck, i don't see how the coil can 'transmit' it's position back to the puter? i'm gonna have to wait (1-2 weeks) for the dealer to see it, maybe his diagnostic tools are they way to go. dealer said he's never seen a valve failure, thinks i could be pleasantly supirsed that their tools find somehting stupid/easy. in the meantime i might attempt to remove the valve to see if there is anything obvious. i wish there was an 'all reset' on the puter.

ChrisNJ · Jun 1, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

Problem solved!!! friend came over and hooked up a fancy e-machine, said coil is testing good, still could be valve itself though, but doesn't make sense cause it can't 'talk' back to computer. said we should try re-calibrating again. he read procedure and asked me all the questions and when we came to 'motion match switch must be off' i said i don't know, cause my motion match switch is different than the book, i only have one that has a fast and slow, i don;t have the one upper left that has a lock symbol and max symbol. i assumed (the problem) that mine didn't have an off, so i had left it in the upper or decel faster position. he thought that the lower or slower decel postion might be off cuase it's not 'making' the tractor slow faster. we tried it in the lower position for the re-cal this time. this time it wnet through all as before but this time at the end THE CODE WENT AWAY after the last test. yahooooo. tractor now works properly. soooooo we are guessing on what cuased the problem in the first place and the ony thing we can come to is the rear proportional valve coil wire (purple) was stretched enough to break it momentarily but the first thing i did when i saw it was move it away from the suspect break arm and i may have re-completed the circuit. then when i tried to re-cal i had the motion switch in the wrong place and just could could complet the re-cal which then shut the whole system down. if it happens again, we will go right to the suspect wire. advice: we all should get under our tractor now and then and check that the wires are all out of harms way, my tractor has 200 hrs on it but maybe going over all the trees and brush that i do moved/stretched a wire enough to cause this whole saga.

ChrisNJ · Jun 1, 2006

Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.

Problem solved!!! friend came over and hooked up a fancy e-machine, said coil is testing good, still could be valve itself though, but doesn't make sense cause it can't 'talk' back to computer. said we should try re-calibrating again. he read procedure and asked me all the questions and when we came to 'motion match switch must be off' i said i don't know, cause my motion match switch is different than the book, i only have one that has a fast and slow, i don;t have the one upper left that has a lock symbol and max symbol. i assumed (the problem) that mine didn't have an off, so i had left it in the upper or decel faster position. he thought that the lower or slower decel postion might be off cuase it's not 'making' the tractor slow faster. we tried it in the lower position for the re-cal this time. this time it wnet through all as before but this time at the end THE CODE WENT AWAY after the last test. yahooooo. tractor now works properly. soooooo we are guessing on what cuased the problem in the first place and the ony thing we can come to is the rear proportional valve coil wire (purple) was stretched enough to break it momentarily but the first thing i did when i saw it was move it away from the suspect break arm and i may have re-completed the circuit. then when i tried to re-cal i had the motion switch in the wrong place and just could could complet the re-cal which then shut the whole system down. if it happens again, we will go right to the suspect wire. advice: we all should get under our tractor now and then and check that the wires are all out of harms way, my tractor has 200 hrs on it but maybe going over all the trees and brush that i do moved/stretched a wire enough to cause this whole saga.