4310, Loaded tires or wheel weights?

[jhortonvt]

I am getting a 4310 and I'm not sure if I should get loaded tires (On my turfs) or should I get wheel weights?
What is the typical cost of each?
I want to stay away from a ballast box, as that's just one more implement to work around.


4310 eHydro
300x FEL
59" front snowblower
LX5 Rotary Cutter
(so far...) /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[ducati996]

I dont have a 4310 but I have heard they can be light in the rear especially with a full bucket. Loaded tires like CaCl in tubes are the most cost effective. But there are trade offs I guess. Wheel weights are expensive (probably the most expensive form of weight). I think the ballast box is the second to loaded tires as the most cost effective...
If it was me i would load the tires ( at least I have loaded tires on my machine) and some ballast or implement in the back..
Hope this helps...

Ducati

 

[JackIL]

When you look at the Loader Operators Manual section on Ballast Recommendations you will find that it takes BOTH weight on the rear axle (either liquid or cast iron) and weight on the 3 point hitch in the form of a weighted ballast box or heavy implement to get the proper balance for safe operation with the loader. This is not something you can afford to ignore. It takes a lot of rear ballast to keep the rear wheels on the ground when using the loader. The tables in the Operators Manual have it all worked out.

JackIL

 

[JDgreen227]

My 4210 does not have loaded tires (turfs) as I rarely use the loader for anything heavier than snow or brush, but if I load up the bucket with gravel or rocks the rear gets light enough to require engaging MFWD. When using the FEL for heavy loads I either attach the 300 pound RB or, if I need more weight I attach the ballast box I made. I personally prefer having weight on the rear of the tractor as it's more effective than loaded tires or wheel weights, and it's easier to remove.

The reason I didn't want loaded tires was because 90% of my operating hours are mowing time and I was concerned about having a flat tire (lots of old nails on my property). But if you don't have my situation, I'd go with the loaded tires and rear weight. As others have pointed out, wheel weights are the most expensive solution....but whatever you choose, don't compromise on safety !!!! ADD THE REQUIRED WEIGHT.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Your cutter or a heavy (600lb) Box blade should suffice.
Only in very tight quarters, and if you have to take off the FEL or BB(only using one or the other), would you need the tire weight.

 

[dmp437]

Loading the rear tires with RimGuard would be the most cost effective. I had my rears loaded before delivery and the loader hydraulics go into bypass before the rear comes off the ground. Loading the rear tires also gives the tractor a lower center of gravity (harder to flip) and less weight on the rear wheel bearings compared to wheel weights.
A good portion of my tractor use is mowing with the mid mount mower (another 410 pounds of ballast /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) and on soft ground the front tires cut into the lawn far worse than the loaded rears.