Jimmy Joe
Gold Member
If I was closer I would be there in a jiffy, you will get it figured out.
4310, Curtis Cab & Heater, Working Lights
- Thread starter FredSG
- Start date
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OP
FredSG
Silver Member
Jimmy Joe,
Maybe I've got it figured out . . . there are two red wires coming from the fuse box. One is "hot" the other is ?? dead ??. Using the "hot" wire and re-doing my crimps and connections I am able to get everything to work - the heater, the beacon light and the work lights. I got them to work SEPARATELY when connected to the "hot" wire. Can I hook the beacon and work lights to the "hot" wire going directly to the heater switch tab, letter B as shown on the back of the switch? Am I over-loading the fuse, 20 amp?
Any idea why the other red wire is "dead" coming from the fuse box? Originally, this "dead" red wire was attached somewhere, but I don't know where. Any thoughts?
Thanks for staying with me on this.
FredSG
Maybe I've got it figured out . . . there are two red wires coming from the fuse box. One is "hot" the other is ?? dead ??. Using the "hot" wire and re-doing my crimps and connections I am able to get everything to work - the heater, the beacon light and the work lights. I got them to work SEPARATELY when connected to the "hot" wire. Can I hook the beacon and work lights to the "hot" wire going directly to the heater switch tab, letter B as shown on the back of the switch? Am I over-loading the fuse, 20 amp?
Any idea why the other red wire is "dead" coming from the fuse box? Originally, this "dead" red wire was attached somewhere, but I don't know where. Any thoughts?
Thanks for staying with me on this.
FredSG
atsah
Elite Member
IMO you have to many things hooked to the heater prongs, it worked before but I like separating things, is it possible the prongs on the heater are the problem?
Jimmy Joe
Gold Member
If you have led lights I would not think you are overloading the circuit with everything on. If everything works now you should be good 20 amps is a good size but I have no way of knowing what total amp draw is when everything is when it is all turned on could you test using a multi meter Harbor Freight offers them free with a coupon and purchase. The dead red wire was probably the original light wire is it attached to a fuse and is the fuse good?
OP
FredSG
Silver Member
Hi Jimmy Joe,
This is a photo of the old heating switch with all the wires attached. The heater would turn on and off and worked just fine. But, one of the prongs on the back side apparently failed causing the lights to not work or so I think. Replacing the wires in their correct sequence has been the issue . . . and why do I have that dead red wire coming from the JD fuse box? While the second red wire is a hot one.
FredSG
This is a photo of the old heating switch with all the wires attached. The heater would turn on and off and worked just fine. But, one of the prongs on the back side apparently failed causing the lights to not work or so I think. Replacing the wires in their correct sequence has been the issue . . . and why do I have that dead red wire coming from the JD fuse box? While the second red wire is a hot one.
FredSG
Jimmy Joe
Gold Member
It is a little hard to tell exactly how it was wired I think the guy who wired it used way more splices than necessary. It looks like he used power from the heater switch to power the lights so why there is another red wire going to the fuse panel is beyond me. If it were mine I would hook them to terminal B I would use a 14 or 16 gauge wire from the power source to the heater switch with the 20 amp fuse it should be fine.