422 engine

Beechwood · Sep 28, 2006

KMA said:
I believe what Bob999 was getting at (please correct me if I'm mistaken) is that the wheel motors/pumps used on the 180 may have a more impact on "power" than the engine output. In other words, additional HP is likely not the only thing that makes the 422 and the 425 more "powerful".

I have the specs. on the 180 wheel motors from WHITE. I can't remember what the max in/lbs of torque is compared to the 422 wheel motor max in/lbs. of torque. If I look at the torque curve chart for the 18HP engine and look at the continious power rating output,which is a more realistic use rating it is considerbly less ( 14.5 HP ). So maybe by adding a few more HP I will get the full potental out of the 180 pumps, wheel motors etc. without maxing them out. If the change out is feasable after I get the remaining info. ( max hp for the180 wheel motors, pumps , etc.) then the parts costs ( governor spring, carburetor, throttle shaft ) will be $274.12 plus shipping.
Am I getting the full usable torque and power out of my wheel motors, pumps, etc. now with the 18HP --- I don't know,--the continious rated output HP is only 14.5. Thats what I have to find out.

Phils · Sep 28, 2006

My 422 engine will bog down when I'm going up steeper hills, and bog down when I've got the brush hog going and trying to go uphill. For less than $300 it's $100/hp and I may be one that's gonna go for the change.

Phil

J_J · Sep 28, 2006

Bob999 said:
If I understand correctly the specs JJ lists are for the PTO pump. That still leaves the pump for the aux circuit and the variable displacement pump that powers the wheel motors. And of course there are the wheel motors that are probably different.

PTO pump data
8 gpm @2000 psi requires 10.9 hp--18 , 22 hp engines
8 gpm @2500 psi requires 13.69 hp-25 hp engines

Can you climb those hills with out using the PTO. That should tell you some thing about your wheel motors. Those other pumps are probably using up as much hp as needed, It then depends on torque generated by the wheel motors.

If you put to much load on a hydraulic motor, it will stall out the engine or slow that engine down.

JackRobin · Sep 29, 2006

Hey guys,

Long time no see... I don't really have the time to read the whole 5 pages of this thread so from reading some of the posts, I just want to let the cat out of the bag on the whole EH63/64/65 hp questions.

The only differences on all three of these models are the carburetor and the governor hole setting. If you guys have any additional questions shoot them my way in this thread, I'll try to answer as soon as I can.

Regards,

Jack Gawecki
Subaru Power Products
Technical Support Dept.
800-277-6246

KMA · Sep 29, 2006

J_J said:
PTO pump data
8 gpm @2000 psi requires 10.9 hp--18 , 22 hp engines
8 gpm @2500 psi requires 13.69 hp-25 hp engines

The Power Trac website shows the PT422 having the 8gpm/2500psi PTO.

JackRobin said:
If you guys have any additional questions shoot them my way in this thread, I'll try to answer as soon as I can.

I have one...

how can we increase the power of the EH65 without affecting reliability?

Thanks!

Beechwood · Sep 29, 2006

JackRobin said:
Hey guys,

Long time no see... I don't really have the time to read the whole 5 pages of this thread so from reading some of the posts, I just want to let the cat out of the bag on the whole EH63/64/65 hp questions.

The only differences on all three of these models are the carburetor and the governor hole setting. If you guys have any additional questions shoot them my way in this thread, I'll try to answer as soon as I can.

Regards,

Jack Gawecki
Subaru Power Products
Technical Support Dept.
800-277-6246

THANK YOU JACK!!- FOR COMFIRMING MY FINDINGS. I must have read the owners manual and parts manual, and engine specs. at least a dozen times and I could not find any difference other than the carb. and governor settings.

JackRobin · Sep 29, 2006

KMA said:
I have one... how can we increase the power of the EH65 without affecting reliability?

Thanks!

I suggest running NASA rocket fuel in the engine.

BobRip · Sep 29, 2006

I thought there was an oil cooler in the 25 HP engine. So we can just change the carb and spring and up the horse power? Sounds real easy.

JackRobin · Sep 29, 2006

BobRip said:
I thought there was an oil cooler in the 25 HP engine. So we can just change the carb and spring and up the horse power? Sounds real easy.

That is correct, I wasn't talking about upgrading from EH6X to EH72, the crankcase for EH72 25hp is diffrent than EH6X series.

Beechwood · Sep 29, 2006

BobRip said:
I thought there was an oil cooler in the 25 HP engine. So we can just change the carb and spring and up the horse power? Sounds real easy.

Bob;
The 3 engines are the 18HP, 20.5HP, & the 22Hp. The 25Hp (EH72 ) is a whole different beast.

BobRip · Sep 29, 2006

Beechwood said:
Bob;
The 3 engines are the 18HP, 20.5HP, & the 22Hp. The 25Hp (EH72 ) is a whole different beast.

I want the different beast.

Charlie_Iliff · Sep 29, 2006

JackRobin said:
Hey guys,

Long time no see... I don't really have the time to read the whole 5 pages of this thread so from reading some of the posts, I just want to let the cat out of the bag on the whole EH63/64/65 hp questions.

The only differences on all three of these models are the carburetor and the governor hole setting. If you guys have any additional questions shoot them my way in this thread, I'll try to answer as soon as I can.

Regards,

Jack Gawecki
Subaru Power Products
Technical Support Dept.
800-277-6246

Boy, I wish I'd laid in a supply of 22 hp carburetors before the 180 guys found out about this!!

Barryh · Sep 29, 2006

Very interesting stuff, the little 180 has less weight, and for a couple hundred the hp can be upped to 22. Hmmmm seems the gap is closing somewhat.

Keen eye Beechwood. Nice catch.

Beechwood · Sep 29, 2006

AMEN TO THAT!
I'm cobbling up a couple of more engine tricks but I won't let the kitty out of the bag just yet!

J_J · Sep 29, 2006

KMA said:
The Power Trac website shows the PT422 having the 8gpm/2500psi PTO.

I have one... how can we increase the power of the EH65 without affecting reliability?

Thanks!

You are right. I put the right data on paper, but switch things around when posting. The 22hp and the 25hp must have the same PTO pump.

Beechwood · Oct 3, 2006

Beechwood said:
AMEN TO THAT!
I'm cobbling up a couple of more engine tricks but I won't let the kitty out of the bag just yet!

I received my mufflers today from UPS for my dual exhaust conversion.

Heres a list of things I'm hoping to accomplish by doing the carb and exhaust change outs.

1--Have some reserve horsepower for the wheel motors, pumps, etc.
2-- Add some performance.
3-- Have less restricted exhaust.
4-- Reduce or eliminate poping and backfiring when shuting the engine off ,by doing away with the OEM sq. tube manifold.
5-- Reduce the heat index in engine compartment.
6-- Reduce the noise levels.

I'll post more information as the project progresses.

Phils · Oct 3, 2006

Watch out Beechwood! There's a problem that can follow your modifications, which I learned when I made my 422 quieter (remember the Supertrap thread?).

The rattles from the engine cover become very obnoxious. Couldn't hear them over the original exhaust.

I've fixed the worst by installing some thick rubber pads on the brace that holds the tank, where the engine cover rattles against it.

Now there's just some residual rattle from the hinge end but I haven't figgered a way to sound-isolate them. The pin/socket is too small to put rubber bushings into. I might be able to put some more rubber on the box to where it'll get "pinched" when the cover is closed, but this is still in the "thought process" stage.

Just be ready to hear rattling noises you never heard before.

Phil

J_J · Oct 3, 2006

Phils said:
Watch out Beechwood! There's a problem that can follow your modifications, which I learned when I made my 422 quieter (remember the Supertrap thread?).

The rattles from the engine cover become very obnoxious. Couldn't hear them over the original exhaust.

I've fixed the worst by installing some thick rubber pads on the brace that holds the tank, where the engine cover rattles against it.

Now there's just some residual rattle from the hinge end but I haven't figgered a way to sound-isolate them. The pin/socket is too small to put rubber bushings into. I might be able to put some more rubber on the box to where it'll get "pinched" when the cover is closed, but this is still in the "thought process" stage.

Just be ready to hear rattling noises you never heard before.

Phil

Phil, When I needed to quite the rattle from the hood of my 1445, I cut several pieces of tire tread, and glued them to the deck. When you close the hood now, the hood sits on the tire tread, and hood noise is gone. If you put some thin tread back near the hinges, It will put some pressure on the hinges, and I believe that will quite the hinge rattle also. Can't hurt to try.

Barryh · Oct 3, 2006

J_J said:
Phil, When I needed to quite the rattle from the hood of my 1445, I cut several pieces of tire tread, and glued them to the deck. When you close the hood now, the hood sits on the tire tread, and hood noise is gone. If you put some thin tread back near the hinges, It will put some pressure on the hinges, and I believe that will quite the hinge rattle also. Can't hurt to try.

I did the same thing right after I bought the PT, with a couple of large thick rubber washers. Now no rattles.

MossRoad · Oct 3, 2006

My hood doesn't rattle. There were two rubber pads for the hood to rest on from the factory. Of course, it could be the silky smooth running Kohler...