Oil & Fuel 4110 oil pan stripped

[UncleBuck01]

Finally found time to do a engine oil change, after using it in the morning I parked it at the barn door to take advantage of the bright sunlight and removed the two oil plugs, when I went to put the plugs back in one of the plugs still had the treads from the oil pan still on the plug ( about 80% of the thread).
Talk about "murphy's law" , in a couple hours I needed those barn doors cleared to move horses to stalls, ran to local hardware store and picked up a expanding rubber plug. Plug in, oil back in, tractor moved 40 yards and parked....
Now comes the repair
Option 1 - Duct tape........ just kidding
Option 1A- rubber plug........ it should be that easy
Option 2 - drill & tap to a larger size (currently 12 mm x1.5) with pan still on machine, but what happens to the shavings...............
Option 3 - Remove driveshaft to front axle (4wd), remove oil pan, drill and tap on work bench, new plug, oil pan back on tractor, driveshaft back on front axle, sounds easy
Any other options or suggestions to make it easier. "WHAT WOULD YOU DO"
P. S. it looks like the broken treads are aluminum which means the pan is aluminum ????

 

[Sergei]

I'm guessing that this is not your first oil change....personally I would remove the pan to repair it right and why not go ahead and do the other one also. If one failed now who knows when the other might and with the pan removed you have more options on how to repair it.

 

[bindian]

Install a helicoil. They are easy to install and a permanent repair. We even use them in some instances on jet engines. The aluminum left near the drain hole is below your oil pump's sump pick up inlet. It will most probably drain out with your next oil change.
hugs, Brandi

 

[carpenter383]

Also use anti-seize with bolts that thread into aluminum

 

[rickard45]

Also use anti-seize with bolts that thread into aluminum

they make a over size drain plug for cars, not sure of thread size. it worth a look at auto parts store. just look at oreillys web sight one was 12 by 1.25 the other was 12 by 1.75

 

[DieselPower]

The "easiest" thing to do is just install a oversize drain plug. M12 x 1.5 is a very common size, just stop by any auto parts store and tell them you need a oversize M12 x 1.5 drain plug. You can often get them in single, double or tripple oversize depending on how bad the hole is. You might also inquire if they carry the kind with a drain plug in the center of the plug. With this type plug you install the oversize plug and never remove it, you drain from the smaller plug in the center.

 

[Scooby074]

Id go with #3.

Yes, you can pack the drill/tap with grease, and hope to catch the shavings(#2) but i couldnt do that in good conscience. Yeah im **** like that

 

[irwin]

The "easiest" thing to do is just install a oversize drain plug. M12 x 1.5 is a very common size, just stop by any auto parts store and tell them you need a oversize M12 x 1.5 drain plug. You can often get them in single, double or tripple oversize depending on how bad the hole is. You might also inquire if they carry the kind with a drain plug in the center of the plug. With this type plug you install the oversize plug and never remove it, you drain from the smaller plug in the center.

This what mechanics do whenever possible. As long as it's secure and doesn't leak.... Then get back to work.

 

[UncleBuck01]

All good suggestions, Today my kids finished their college finals and are home for the summer, which gives me time to visit auto parts stores in the
"big city"
I will print this thread and take it with me , will keep you guys up to date
thanks

 

[Sergei]

You might check out this company....better than a helicoil. They make them for oil pan repair.

http://www.timesert.com

http://www.timesert.com/html/drain-plug-repair.pdf

 

[UncleBuck01]

Went under the tractor with light this time to see if there was enough thread left in the hole to use an oversized plug, and yes, the old plug was catching but the plug would not tighten. Backed out the plug, looked in with the light and saw into the hole some good looking thread at the top got out the tape measure, original plug- 1/2, and depth of hole is close to 1" and threaded all the way . let the search begin - looking for a 12 x 1.25 (original guess of 1.5 thread was wrong) x 1/2" oversized plug, with or without piggyback, NO LUCK at three auto part stores, BUT, came home with a standard 12 x 1.25 x 1" inch long bolt. Back under the tractor, with a gob of grease on the bolt I gently tightened the bolt till it caught the good thread - snug to the pan and then backed it out - no thread or metal shavings on the grease, put original washer on bolt and tightened bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque, enough torque for an aluminum pan? Yes? Completed oil change, after 2 hrs use no leaks and bolt is tight.
Since then I have found a Canadian supplier on the internet of the oversized plug with piggyback, FOR NEXT YEARS oil change, until then inspection of the pan and bolt is advisable before each use. Thanks to all for the advice


P.S. Anybody take off the front drive shaft on a 4110, was not looking forward for this task

 

[skipmarcy]

Went under the tractor with light this time to see if there was enough thread left in the hole to use an oversized plug, and yes, the old plug was catching but the plug would not tighten. Backed out the plug, looked in with the light and saw into the hole some good looking thread at the top got out the tape measure, original plug- 1/2, and depth of hole is close to 1" and threaded all the way . let the search begin - looking for a 12 x 1.25 (original guess of 1.5 thread was wrong) x 1/2" oversized plug, with or without piggyback, NO LUCK at three auto part stores, BUT, came home with a standard 12 x 1.25 x 1" inch long bolt. Back under the tractor, with a gob of grease on the bolt I gently tightened the bolt till it caught the good thread - snug to the pan and then backed it out - no thread or metal shavings on the grease, put original washer on bolt and tightened bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque, enough torque for an aluminum pan? Yes? Completed oil change, after 2 hrs use no leaks and bolt is tight.
Since then I have found a Canadian supplier on the internet of the oversized plug with piggyback, FOR NEXT YEARS oil change, until then inspection of the pan and bolt is advisable before each use. Thanks to all for the advice


P.S. Anybody take off the front drive shaft on a 4110, was not looking forward for this task

I have, many times !! The driveshaft isn't difficult to remove. Loosen the bolt in the squeeze clamp with a 10mm wrench, tap on the metal tab hanging down on the rear half of the tube to slide the tube out of the transmission into the other half of the tube. The end that goes into the trans. has an "O" ring around it (not to hold the trans. oil in but to keep water out of the tube). Once the tube is slid in you'll see the driveshaft and coupler and the snap ring at this end. Take some snap ring pliers and move the ring back towards the front of the tractor to the smaller part of the driveshaft. The splined coupler will then slide forward also onto the driveshaft until it clears the output shaft of the trans. You then need to remove the bolt on the driveshaft tube that holds it to the front differential. This will allow the tube to slide back and reveal the same coupler/snap ring setup as at the rear. Do the same here and then the whole driveshaft and tube will drop straight down from under the tractor, hopefully not on your head. I usually move both snap rings first, leaving the couplers holding the shaft in place and then slide the couplers to let the shaft down at the same time. Same thing on reinstallation - get the couplers holding the shaft at both ends before putting the snap rings back into place - the groove on the shaft. I put a little moly spline grease on the shaft & couplers before reassembly too.

 

[UncleBuck01]

I have, many times !! The driveshaft isn't difficult to remove. Loosen the bolt in the squeeze clamp with a 10mm wrench, tap on the metal tab hanging down on the rear half of the tube to slide the tube out of the transmission into the other half of the tube. The end that goes into the trans. has an "O" ring around it (not to hold the trans. oil in but to keep water out of the tube). Once the tube is slid in you'll see the driveshaft and coupler and the snap ring at this end. Take some snap ring pliers and move the ring back towards the front of the tractor to the smaller part of the driveshaft. The splined coupler will then slide forward also onto the driveshaft until it clears the output shaft of the trans. You then need to remove the bolt on the driveshaft tube that holds it to the front differential. This will allow the tube to slide back and reveal the same coupler/snap ring setup as at the rear. Do the same here and then the whole driveshaft and tube will drop straight down from under the tractor, hopefully not on your head. I usually move both snap rings first, leaving the couplers holding the shaft in place and then slide the couplers to let the shaft down at the same time. Same thing on reinstallation - get the couplers holding the shaft at both ends before putting the snap rings back into place - the groove on the shaft. I put a little moly spline grease on the shaft & couplers before reassembly too.

Skipmarcy
I will print it and put your instructions in the 4110 manual I have, believe me your reply is better than the manual . I have one other question for you - did you find a solution to your axle problem, hope you did, thanks for the reply

 

[skipmarcy]

I'm not sure if I've solved my axle problem or not - my FWD has been out for almost 2 years now from the rearmost bearing on the internal driveshaft destroyed again and I haven't had the space in my garage to do the rear split necessary. I'm almost done with my shed, which will free my garage space up and I intend to do the repair this summer. I did this repair once already about 3 years ago and will have to scrutinize on disassembly to see if I can figure out why this is happening. I have a guess that maybe as the front axle pivot has worn-in and I've made a few small adjustments it has shortened the distance between the front differential and trans. and possibly that the front driveshaft might be too long now and could be slamming the shaft in the trans. and destroying this rear bearing. I can get the new bearing at my NAPA store for about $7 but good golly the labor & fluids involved are killer !!! If it is the front driveshaft, I can shorten it to solve this problem. As far as the front axles snapping, I hadn't broken one since I changed my rear tires to the new size but then this current problem occured and didn't get a good chance to see for sure. I have 2 spare axles on hand just in case. It's been tough getting by with just 2wd, working in reverse uphill is out of the question, can't wait to get it repaired.