3pt hitch
- Thread starter stnickstoys
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And another view of the JD Green. These hitches are OK but the top link bracket has only one pin position & is only held by two bolts and the lift arm connectors on these designs have a fixed clevis where they attach to the lower lift bar, which I have found can bind. I have converted to a looser clevis & no longer get any binding when raising & lowering various implements.
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Towbar assembly which I have built into the 3-point hitch rig. Original tractor had only a flat drawplate with a hole in it. I can still use that but I was able to weld a piece of 2x2 box into the initial hitch setup so that I can also slide a towing bar into the rear end and use my choice of a ball, pintle or towing shackle. Sticks far enough out so I can hook up & tow things without having to remove things or make a lot of changes.
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Ym1401King
Bronze Member
Re: 3pt hitch (Specs)
I just built my 3-pt lift arms and used 23" as the inside width. I guess its back to the drawing board. I was told 23", not 26".
Also, where did you get that threaded bolt that has the cat. 1 lift arm pin for the top of your lift arm linkages? I just used a piece of 1/2" rod with a piece that is welded at a 90, and is inserted into the lift arm piece on the tractor, and has a clevis on the other end that connects to the lift arm itself.
Aric
YM1401/w3tcompact/icons/king.gif
I just built my 3-pt lift arms and used 23" as the inside width. I guess its back to the drawing board. I was told 23", not 26".
Also, where did you get that threaded bolt that has the cat. 1 lift arm pin for the top of your lift arm linkages? I just used a piece of 1/2" rod with a piece that is welded at a 90, and is inserted into the lift arm piece on the tractor, and has a clevis on the other end that connects to the lift arm itself.
Aric
YM1401/w3tcompact/icons/king.gif
Re: 3pt hitch (Specs)
26" pin spacing is the norm and that's with the ball joints tightened in place on the implement. On implements with the pins facing outward, you have to initially spread the lower lift arms maybe 32" apart to fit them on the pins, then move them inward to their working position. I use inward-facing pins on my mower so I have to push the lift arms together to maybe 20-22" spacing and then push them outward & pin them in place. I use a big rubber mallet when I hook up to help drive the arms into place on the pins. The lift arm connectors I used on my final version of my hitch were made from a couple of standard top link bars I bought at the local farm store. Look at the drawing I posted. I like to be able to adjust connector arm length on both sides of my hitch; that lets you accurately level implements & to adjust to different implements. I found a couple of all-steel Cat. "0" top link bars that adjusted from 10.5" to 16" long and they had 5/8" ID ball joints at both ends. They were based on 3/4" RH/LH threaded rods so they were plenty strong. They were not intended as connectors but they were ideal for converting to connectors. You could also use them to make good strong stabilizers. They were made in India. My all-time favorite place down here in SE U.S. is a franchise outfit called Agri-Supply Company. They have best selection/prices on farm supplies & tractor parts. They have a website (www.Agri-Supply.com) and a toll-free (1-800-345-0169) and I think you can order by mail. No, I do not work for them. I just give them my business because they are competent & fair. They sold these toplinks for $6.50 each. Their catalogue #33343. I have seen other farm stores asking $20+ apiece for the same bars. Rip off. I just cut the ball joint off one end of a bar and welded my clevis mechanism in place. I prefer the flexible clevis to one that is rigidly welded in place. Then you simply bolt everything in place: ball joint at top connects to hydraulic lift arm and allows smooth rotation; clevis at bottom bolts to lower lift arm and does not bind. Use good strong bolts & lock washers & cotter pins. As these arms work up & down, bolts/nuts can work loose unless you take precautions. Also use the lock nuts on the connectors to fix their length once you get them adjusted.
26" pin spacing is the norm and that's with the ball joints tightened in place on the implement. On implements with the pins facing outward, you have to initially spread the lower lift arms maybe 32" apart to fit them on the pins, then move them inward to their working position. I use inward-facing pins on my mower so I have to push the lift arms together to maybe 20-22" spacing and then push them outward & pin them in place. I use a big rubber mallet when I hook up to help drive the arms into place on the pins. The lift arm connectors I used on my final version of my hitch were made from a couple of standard top link bars I bought at the local farm store. Look at the drawing I posted. I like to be able to adjust connector arm length on both sides of my hitch; that lets you accurately level implements & to adjust to different implements. I found a couple of all-steel Cat. "0" top link bars that adjusted from 10.5" to 16" long and they had 5/8" ID ball joints at both ends. They were based on 3/4" RH/LH threaded rods so they were plenty strong. They were not intended as connectors but they were ideal for converting to connectors. You could also use them to make good strong stabilizers. They were made in India. My all-time favorite place down here in SE U.S. is a franchise outfit called Agri-Supply Company. They have best selection/prices on farm supplies & tractor parts. They have a website (www.Agri-Supply.com) and a toll-free (1-800-345-0169) and I think you can order by mail. No, I do not work for them. I just give them my business because they are competent & fair. They sold these toplinks for $6.50 each. Their catalogue #33343. I have seen other farm stores asking $20+ apiece for the same bars. Rip off. I just cut the ball joint off one end of a bar and welded my clevis mechanism in place. I prefer the flexible clevis to one that is rigidly welded in place. Then you simply bolt everything in place: ball joint at top connects to hydraulic lift arm and allows smooth rotation; clevis at bottom bolts to lower lift arm and does not bind. Use good strong bolts & lock washers & cotter pins. As these arms work up & down, bolts/nuts can work loose unless you take precautions. Also use the lock nuts on the connectors to fix their length once you get them adjusted.
