3pt hitch stabilizer

[shaeff]

Hey everyone,

I've come to the realization that I should invest in a stabilizer bar or chain(s) for my 3pt hitch. I'm running an 8ft JD 25A flail mower on the back of my '64 Massy 35 Utility. With that big, offset beast hanging off the back, it rocks around a good bit which I'm sure can't be good for either machine. Does anyone have a suggestion on what bar to get? I've only seen them briefly, so I'm off to do some research on how they mount, etc... but any further insight would be appreciated! Thanks!

Edit:

Is it something like this I'm looking for? I expected it to be a bit more heavy duty looking, maybe something with heim joints?
Massey Ferguson 35 Stabilizer Kit, High Alloy - SK100-33XHD

Edit2:

I guess not something with heim joints, it looks like all of those I see are on Massey 135s and used with telescopic lower lift arms. So the above kit mounts to the same area as implement mounts. Will they be heavy enough to withstand backing up with a nearly 700lb flail mower and keep it straight?

Edit3:
or is something like this best? it's definitely much heavier duty, but it's just one side:
Massey Ferguson Stabilizer Kit Right Hand for Massey Ferguson 135,240 - M135-RH

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hi Shaeff, The first one appears correct, but ensure the centre-to-centre lower lift arm length, and that they are Category 1, which has 7/8 inch holes at both ends. Standard I think are 31&1/2 inches, but on your tractor they could have been changed at some stage. I just measured the stabiliser bars from our 35 (I have borrowed them because they fit the 3PL on the loader) :thumbsup: and they also measure 31.5 inch centres.
Our 135 has approx 33 inch arms (they are extremely worn) but, strangely, parts suppliers seem to offer only the shorter version. Its stabiliser arms have a 3rd hole at 31.5 inches - presumably they will suit both version lift arms.
All measurements are approximate - links were fitted to implements and I was measuring with only a tape - in millimetres, then calculating to inches :confused2:

If I were you, my preference would be the bar kit you first mentioned - in High-strength Alloy - as long as the arm length is correct.
Massey Ferguson 35 Stabilizer Kit, High Alloy - SK100-33XHD

This is my choice for two reasons. The links are preferable because they "help" each other (one is stretched and the other is compressed simultaneously) sharing the shock loads between both sets of lift arms, stabiliser arms and their related pins and mounts. This is especially advantageous when carrying heavier implements such as slashers (bush-hogs) and off-set discs. Additionally, I have seen only two broken - on separate occasions, due largely to wear and fatigue. They are, presuming they're of comparable quality material to the genuine item, incredibly strong 3/8" thick spring steel - very hard to bend and almost impossible to break. Our pair are genuine MF parts, 48 years old and still strong and reliable.

A couple years ago when I was using a huge and really heavy soil aerator - albeit well after dark - one linch-pin come out at the front mount of the LH stabiliser - the front end of it dropped off and was pointing straight down and cutting through the hard ground! :ashamed: It took me a good few seconds to ascertain why that heavy tractor suddenly seemed to be loaded up a bit more and was wanting to veer left a little - that bar had to be 18" into hard ground but did not break! I'm still amazed at that - I cannot believe it didn't instantly break across the hole at the implement end ... I guess even I can be lucky sometimes! :thumbsup:

Also offered are chain-type stabilisers: Massey Ferguson 35 Stabilizer Chains, Set - 49A93

While these are convenient and can be adjusted to remove all slack, they are effective only in tension, which adds to the load already on the lift arm mounting point. I've broken one of these and can say, from experience, it was a lot of work to remove the axle housing to renew it.

Send me a PM or an E-mail if you need further help or info.

 

[CCWKen]

I've got the adjustable chain type on my Ford tractor. I've heard the complaints about them but I've never had a problem and they're more precise for fine adjustments and less sway. Much better than a bunch of holes spaced out hoping to get aligned. As with any stabilizer, it's important to get the tractor side attachment in the same axial plane as the lift arm.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The square bar design looks a lot more heavy duty but it lacks an adjustable threaded link (not sure what you call that but like a mini top link)like the chain stabilizers have. I think if that is all that is available, I would go with the chain stabs since they do give some adjustment to fine tune the amount of give that you want the 3 PH to have. You don't want the stabs to be tight to the point that no sway is available at all.
My LS has the square bar with pins to adjust the distance but it also has the threaded coupling adjustment to allow fine adjustment between the pin holes. Also the slotted hole allows each side to give a bit.

Does your tractor already have the pins under the axles where the stabilizers attach? If not you will have to buy the bracket like the first link shows unless you can fab it up yourself.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Gary, a turnbuckle is what you're trying to recall, and yes, they will allow removal of all sway, which as you state is not a good habit, but with chains only one side takes load at a time. Rods with holes and pins aren't as strong as they look - they seem to bend at the drop of a hat.

Maybe I expect too much, but as I stated, they're tough!

Shaeff's tractor should have those mounts in place unless they've been removed for some reason. I can't remember seeing one without them. He's best advised to buy a kit if they aren't there.

 

[shaeff]

Thanks for all the great advice, everyone, I appreciate it!

My machine does not currently have the pins under the axles, maybe they were removed when the loader was installed many years ago? I'm not sure, but I do know that if I try to back up with my offset flail mower, it moves all over the place and I'm sure it's straining my lift arms a good bit.

The spring steel units (first I linked to) look like those that I've seen on tractors of my vintage. I like that they're more of a set/forget type piece, as often times if I have all that extra adjustment I feel like I'll be messing with that rather than mowing or pulling whatever behind me. I also like the way the steel bars distribute the load between push/pull on each side.

I'll snap a pic of my setup this weekend so we can remove all doubt as to what I'm working with here. In the meantime, here's a pic of the machine while I was mowing my field late yesterday, and an experiment with scalping 4'+ high brush down to 1/2"! (Slow moving but looks great!) I increased cut height to the max of 5" after the second pic was taken. In the first pic you can see it's much rougher in the foreground, that's 5" cut height and looks more like a brush hog/slasher style cut

 

[CCWKen]

Gary, a turnbuckle is what you're trying to recall, and yes, they will allow removal of all sway, which as you state is not a good habit, but with chains only one side takes load at a time.

That wouldn't matter if you have something attached. I have a quick hitch so basically my adjustment remains fixed for all implements and there's very little sway. It might be a problem for tractors parts that are stamped out of some flimsy sheet metal though.

 

[twosocks90]

I have the same problem shaeff. I run an 8ft Mott flail mower. Despite having chain stabilizers on the 3pt arms the entire mower can flop from side to side when turning on a hill.

Please post here when you decide what you're going to do. Pictures are always great too.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Here is what I have.
To show original equipment - our 135 is an agricultural spec tractor and thus equipped with swaybars ex factory.
Note the 3rd hole I mentioned earlier to suit 31.5" lift arms on earlier models.



Here is my set-up on the loader - currently a case of "Necessity is the mother of invention" :thumbsup: to an extent, because the lack of stabilisers and check-chains was directly the cause of my breaking the RH lift arm mount. I had temporarily fashioned check-chains - which attach to brackets on the studs around the PTO shaft - which I thought were sufficient, but overlooked that they are not as tight when the arms are at mid-height. I was unfortunate to not realise that, but won't forget it in a hurry! :ashamed:
After renewing that mount and repairing the brake on that side (co-incidentally the one that didn't work) I found the lift arms were the same length as our 35. The loader frame where it attaches to the rear axles has a series of 5/8" holes drilled in the inside edges, one of which lines up almost exactly with the lift arm mounts. A pair of strong 5/8" bolts, two pieces of 5/8" ID 7/8" OD steel tube about 7/16" long allowed me to bolt them as shown below. Bolts are tight against the tubing so holes don't elongate and works very nicely. Last pic shows proper bolt-in mounts with 5/8" shanks - yet to be fitted.



If your loader frame is similar, this may be your best solution. On my machine the factory mount brackets cannot be installed if the loader frame is fitted. Hope this helps. :drink:

 

[LD48750]

The first set you showed will work just fine & do EXACTLY what you want.

Cheap,easy, & efficient.


(Works on my 9N ford & MF50 for all implements.)