3-Point Hitch 3pt Hitch Side to Side Sway Tolerance?

[BrentP]

I just hooked up my first 3pt attachment (boxblade) to my new 2305, and I believe I attached everything correctly. I do have a question though...Should it sway so much from side to side? It has about 8" to 10" of travel. My neighbor has a Kubota, and his thread adjustments allow his to not sway at all. I turned mine all the way inboard and it still does nothing.

Is this normal for a JD 3pt hitch?
Am I missing something?

The manual doesn't say much.

I attached a couple of pictures...Thanks

 

[radman1]

I am not familar with that specific model. But in general, there should not be much sway. I usually allow just a couple of inches in movement. Is it possible that the adjustible antisway bar is mounted wrong. It would appear from your picture that it may be possible to reverse the mounting collars on the tractor from side to side. This would place the turnbuckle attachment more toward the center of the tractor by 1-2 inches and maybe all that you need. Just a suggestion. Hopefully others who have that tractor will also give advice.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'll snug driven implements tight. This is referring to cutters, mowers and such.
I only use my blade for snow removal and I do leave some sway in that to lessen shocks when I hit something.

 

[Maxfli]

I have a 2210 and do not have nearly that much sway in any of my attachments. I adjust my turnbuckles so they are tight, though they never are nearly touching as in your picture. Makes me wonder about the space between the Hitch pins on the box blade, I think it should be something like 26.5". I think if the turnbuckles are able to be cranked down tight to the width of the attachment your sway will diminish. Maybe spacers on the hitch pins.

 

[davkir]

I've attached a couple of pictures (Hopefully!!!) It shouldn't be able to sway side to side very much at all.

The pins on my BB are about 32.5 inches tip to tip.
I also had to shorten the top link to give it enough adjustment.

It appears that the adjustable links on yours are different. (One end appears to be quite a bit longer then mine.) If you can't tell in the photo, let me know and I will try to get some dimensions.

 

[VABlue]

Brent, you showed the left coupling, is the right coupling also turned that tight? I've never had any sway to speak of when snugging up those couplers with my ballast box. Unless that BB is a cat0, with a narrower width between the pins? Like Radman says, try reversing the collars and see what happens. I can look at mine when I get home and see if anything is different.

 

[kwolfe]

I have the same box blade you do. It looks exactly like my King Kutter XB box blade. They made it specifically for subcuts. The pin tips are more like 28" apart. This is why you are having the problem.

I would not try reversing the collars. If you look at how the ring is welded to the collar, reversing it would put lateral stress on that ring which might cause it to bend. You could cut off about an inch or so of the inside section of the collar and then slide it over to the outside. You could also try and see about getting different turnbuckles. If not, you may have to mod the draft pins on the box blade to make them wider.

I am surprised. This is the first time I have heard that the draft arms not being NARROW enough.

 

[VABlue]

Here's a pic of the collars on my 2305 - they are the reverse of how yours are situated. Which alignment is correct, I don't know. But I do know that I can snug up my 25.5" wide (between the pins) ballast box with plenty of play left in the turnbuckles. It's my understanding that a good weld should be stronger than the steel itself, but those who weld would be a better source of info for that.

 

[kwolfe]

Glad to see it worked out for you. You are right about the weld strength. Not to mention, it looks like the rings are grabbing right at the base of the weld which provides less leverage for any potential bending.

 

[BrentP]

Thanks for all your input. My wife went into labor so I couldn't get back with everyone right away (baby boy and healthy) Back to the tractor...At least I know now that it is NOT normal to sway that much. I really do not want to have to modify anything on my tractor unless something is installed wrong. From all of my observations and studies, it appears that the box blade may be category 0, and like Kwolfe said...the pins are to narrow at the end hook up's. Oh...it is not a KK, the brand is Farm Force. Very similar to the KK. I may just go up to TSC and measure the KK version, and if it is drastically wider, I will return the Farm Force. If I can't do that, then I will look into changing the pin lengths on the BB and adding spacers.

Back to the Hospital I go...

Thanks, Brent