Last fall I got my first tractor, a B7500 with FEL, box scraper, and bush hog. It is a terrific piece of equipment and has saved a lot of wear and tear on this aging body. I only have one problem. I have a hell of a time changing attachments on the 3ph. Some of the backache that the tractor saves me is being paid back on these changes. My dealer "showed me how" when I first got the tractor but he did it like I am, just wrestling with it until I get it. I hate to surrender and get one of those quick change devices. Any tips for this struggling amateur?
3ph
- Thread starter Haldawson
- Start date
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I agree with you to some extent, Hal - it is more work than I had thought it would be too. I've really gotten to the point where I don't mind it too much though. It seems to me that it's all in the setup - I try to always make sure I'm working on a hard flat surface, and I plan to build platforms or casters for anything that doesn't have it's own wheels (like my tiller), which makes it easier to jockey around. Then, for the "fine" adjustments I have a small pry bar and a rubber mallet. It seems to get quite a bit easier to hitch and unhitch the 3-pt attachments the more I do it.
Now for a side vent: What I really don't like is the type of PTO shaft that has the collar-style release for the locking pin. Maybe its just me but I have a miserable time with that thing every time, fighting with the plastic shield and trying to pull back on the collar while pushing the shaft onto the spline. I think the pin-style release is much easier.
Rob (another struggling amateur)
Now for a side vent: What I really don't like is the type of PTO shaft that has the collar-style release for the locking pin. Maybe its just me but I have a miserable time with that thing every time, fighting with the plastic shield and trying to pull back on the collar while pushing the shaft onto the spline. I think the pin-style release is much easier.
Rob (another struggling amateur)
Bill_in_MI
Silver Member
Hal,
I have seen two suggestions that seem really good, though I have not yet put them to work for me.
One is to use a large pry bar to nudge the implement one way or the other into alignment. The second is the use of home made dollies (wood frame with heavy duty casters) onto which the implement is parked when it is removed. The later assumes a good flat surface is available, however. I'm going to try this one when my pole barn is completed later this summer. I am sure the authors of the above ideas can give a better testimony to the merits of both ideas.
Worth giving a try to save the back!
I have seen two suggestions that seem really good, though I have not yet put them to work for me.
One is to use a large pry bar to nudge the implement one way or the other into alignment. The second is the use of home made dollies (wood frame with heavy duty casters) onto which the implement is parked when it is removed. The later assumes a good flat surface is available, however. I'm going to try this one when my pole barn is completed later this summer. I am sure the authors of the above ideas can give a better testimony to the merits of both ideas.
Worth giving a try to save the back!
looch
Veteran Member
There's also a "twist on" shaft. It's easy to get on and off - as long as the PTO is in gear, otherwise it just turns. I think the company is Bondioli & Pavesi.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
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<font color=blue>...I have a small pry bar and a rubber mallet. ...</font color=blue>
/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
On my Massey 135, I have a BIG steel bar and a sledge hammer...
P.S. What size is that rubber mallet for whacking flys.../w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
On my Massey 135, I have a BIG steel bar and a sledge hammer...
P.S. What size is that rubber mallet for whacking flys.../w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Hal, changing implements is a pain sometimes, I know when machines come in that I have to remove and install implements to do other work, I always think "why did'nt the customer remove this, would have saved a couple bucks in labor"? But after I'm done I think, I would have paid me to do it too. Some are worse than others, but some of the suggestions I've seen here sound pretty good to me.
woodstock
Gold Member
I've giveb this some thought and action.
The action consists of starting the process of poring a level smooth pad for the Bozilla's Pad.
But I thing the real solution is my invention of the custom pins.
To briefly describe them is simplicity in design a tapered pin that you hammer in which aligns everything as long as the hole are at least 1/4 inch in line with each other.
Do I have any buyers?
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Winnipeg, Manitoba
2001 BX2200 (15 hrs) All Kubota FEL,Tiller, box blade, blower w/elec shute, 60 mid mt deck, Ag tires.
Grey market B7000 w/Tiller (120 hrs)
1984 JD 316 after 687 hrs.
The action consists of starting the process of poring a level smooth pad for the Bozilla's Pad.
But I thing the real solution is my invention of the custom pins.
To briefly describe them is simplicity in design a tapered pin that you hammer in which aligns everything as long as the hole are at least 1/4 inch in line with each other.
Do I have any buyers?
Winnipeg, Manitoba
2001 BX2200 (15 hrs) All Kubota FEL,Tiller, box blade, blower w/elec shute, 60 mid mt deck, Ag tires.
Grey market B7000 w/Tiller (120 hrs)
1984 JD 316 after 687 hrs.
GlueGuy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,654
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
You know, it's funny. The spacing on my boxblade and my mower are exactly the same, yet I have to spread the lower arms on the 3PH every time I switch. Why? The boxblade has removable pins (easy), but the mower has fixed pins. So to hook/unhook the mower, I have to spread the lower arms to the max, then slide them on the fixed pins.
One thing that I've done to make it easier is to attach (one end of a) a large rubber bungy to the "hooks" on the outer portion of each lower arm, and the other end to a bolt on the ROPS. This "pulls" the lower arms out & up. This way all I have to do is line up one side, and the other is "almost" exactly where I need it. I then use a 4' crow-bar on the other side and give it a good shove with my foot to get it to slide on.
The GlueGuy
One thing that I've done to make it easier is to attach (one end of a) a large rubber bungy to the "hooks" on the outer portion of each lower arm, and the other end to a bolt on the ROPS. This "pulls" the lower arms out & up. This way all I have to do is line up one side, and the other is "almost" exactly where I need it. I then use a 4' crow-bar on the other side and give it a good shove with my foot to get it to slide on.
The GlueGuy
jyoutz
Super Member
I use a long steel digging bar to jocky things around. You'd be amazed how easily you can move a 500# implement with a 6 foot bar.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
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<font color=blue>...I use a long steel digging bar...a 6 foot bar...</font color=blue>
Now, that's talking...
Jim,
That's standard issue "tractor toolbox" stuff... don't believe they have any smaller, do they? /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
Now, that's talking...
Jim,
That's standard issue "tractor toolbox" stuff... don't believe they have any smaller, do they? /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif