3720 Feels Tippy

[Chris2520]

I would figure a cab tractor would be way more tippy than an
open station tractor. dont you agree. really top heavy.

Chris..

 

[RoyJackson]

Might sound silly, but are your tires properly inflated. If one or more is at a lower pressure, might give an unstable impression.

Not silly at all...a very good point

 

[nmu98]

Well , I haft to disagree with you on this whole statement. first off i have seen a 2520 and a 3720 side by side. and its not much wider at all . a little but not much. and a 3720 is higher off the ground. and the weight is not that substantial. so i would haft to disagree. i feel there is no way a 3720 is more stable on hills than a 2520.

Even so , if i bought another tractor. it still would most likely be a 3720
and a 448 hoe.....

I will have to dig up the pics, but when mine was on the dealership lot, it was next to a 2520, and it was at least 10 inches wider.... I guess it could be the style of tires? or how they were set?

According to Deeres site, a 2520 weighs 1865 pounds (ship weight) and the 3720 weighs 2900 less cab. 1035 pounds is alot of difference in weight. The engine and tranny sit low in the 3000 series. the muffler and turbo ar on the top and there is a a ton of room in the top of the hood. So the center of gravity is not as bad as it looks IMHO.

 

[Oleozz]

Have a friend who rolled the tractor with his two kids riding on the fenders. Kids were not hurt, they jumped off, but he was badly messed up. He said he had been over that spot at least 100 times before and never got the feeling that the tractor was going to roll, but that one time it did. I saw the spot and it looked steep but not that steep. Common sense will go a long way when traversing hills and grades.

 

[jcmseven]

As I stated in my previous post, the 2520 would be a more stable tractor on most hills. They are almost as wide as a 3720, unless one inverts the wheels or uses spacers, or both. I will say unequivocally that the 3720 is a stable tractor. It is not the most stable tractor among the JD compacts, but it will hold you on a hill. Before I did anything too major I would spend some more seat time (after loading the tires) and see. It might just be a feeling that improves once you have become more familiar with the tractor and its characteristics. I am not saying I am an expert, and I hope I never have a problem, but I live where it is very hilly and hillside/terrain stability is always on the minds of any tractor user here that I know. I would also like to use this moment to remind each of us to USE the safety features on our machines. My neighbor knows of a local man who recently died in a rollover accident on a tractor that had ROPS, but it was folded down. What ashame. I must admit, when I have been doing my driveway or other simple projects that I have done hundreds of times, I have been guilty of not deploying my ROPS (because my tractor will not go into the garage with it up). Such a poignant reminder has made me diligent about now doing it. These tractors have a lot of pulling power due to their powerful engines and MFWD, and they can pull themselves into big trouble--quickly. So, if you have the feeling I do not necessarily think that is bad, it might be causing you to maintain the necessary caution we all should.

John M

 

[orlo]

WayupNrth:

I considered the 4000 series. (I Would have loved to get a 4520) but the cab's were too high for my garage (By about only 1/2 an inch - I have 95 inches in entrance height).

The grinder so far works better than the video. The SC-25 is rated for 15-35 hp. I bought it with the intention of using it mostly on the 3720 but an occassional use on the 2305 but after using it I think it would be underpowered on the 2305 (Never mind that it would be just about maxing out the 3pt hitch if the 2305 could lift it at all...).

It positions easily and really does a fast job. Most stumps I took out (Some took 3 positions due to depth) took 5-10 minutes. A few took longer. The unit itself is built like a battleship. It digs in to about 10" below the surface.

The only think (Probably common with stump grinders) is that it would be easy to bend the drive shaft if you weren't careful and had the 3pt angle a little off. Not while using it, but if you have it all the way down and go to lift the 3pt hitch to move it you can easily push the grinder frame up against the shaft.

 

[tuolumne]

I would consider my 3520 to be extremely stable with loaded tires and a chipper on the back. I am clearing a hilly lot. With 45 hours on the machine now, my pucker factor has gone way down. With 12' logs in the bucket at max capacity I will drive anywhere on that lot now without worrying. When a rear tire goes over a stump the angle can change very quickly. This was disconcerting at first, but the tires nearly always stay on the ground. Part of the sensation is that the operators seat is much higher on the 3x20 series than similarly sized older tractors. This does a lot to improve visability, but does make the side to side motions feel larger.

Edit: I should have mentioned...I was clearing out for a while on Friday with the 448 hoe on instead of the chipper. This let me extract some very hard to reach logs where I had to ride one side up on a boulder or similar conditions. This would put the tractor at a very sharp angle, but with the hoe extended to the uphill side I could slowly get the log out without any tipping. For one extreme condition, I did such an extraction with a boulder in the backhoe bucket for additional counter-balance.

 

[wayupnth]

Thanks Orlo,

I'm glad to hear that the grinder works well. I thought that the video seemed pretty good so if it works better than that, it should be awesome. How did you justify buying a stump grinder and 2 tractors? Even though I have hundreds of stumps to get rid of, I'm having trouble swallowing the price. Even an excavator would have to create a big hole to get the stumps out and another to bury them so I'm thinking that grinding is better. I wonder if the trees will grow back out of the stumps if you grind them below the surface and bury them?

I am also thinking that a smaller second tractor, a 2305 or 2320 would be helpful since I have large fields and woods to work as well as very tight areas around the house and barn.

 

[orlo]

WayupNrth:

The grinder was a big chunk of change, but I had at least 20 stumps (maybe 30) between two properties (200 miles apart - One 6.2 acres (Finish mow maybe 5 acres), and one 2.6). Also, on one of the properties they filled over roots so over the years I'm sure I'm going to have a lot more trees dying and stumps to remove. It does a nice neat job and there is a much smaller hole to level and fill. The ones I've taken out with the BH take a lot of work to fill, level and replant grass.

I had initially got a BH6000 on the 2305 to remove stumps and it does a fairly
respectable job but it makes a big mess, a huge hole where each stump was, etc. Also, I found after I got it that one of the lot's was filled and the roots are over 6' deep so the BH let me dig around the stump, chainsaw (below ground level) the stumps, but couldn't reach deep enough to get rid of those stumps.

Initially I just had the 2305 on the big property and used a GT5000 for the smaller one. But I liked the 2305 so much I moved it to the 2.6 acres property (Used it here in the winter for snow removal anyway) and left it there. Got a 3320 for the bigger lot. But after having the 3320 I realized I should have got the cab... Due to the A/C compressor, bigger alternator, etc. I wouldn't get anything smaller than a 3520 in a Cab. I ended up going all the way (you only live once) to a 3720. The cab is nice in the summer and I'm going to use it for snow removal in the winter.

Last of all I'm not married so I didn't have a Boss I needed to run this stuff by... My Girlfriend of (8 years - Practically married I admit) never gives me crap about buying this stuff. In fact, when I bought the 3320 open she gave me crap about being 'cheap' and not going for the cab...

Also, one of the properties is 1/2 a rental so I can depreciate part of the tractors. (In my mind this completely justiifies it... In reality it just helps a little....

Oh, and I thought my 3320 felt tippy also, but not as Tippy as the 3720 cab. I think I could have flipped either one by going full out in high range and turning. I was bushhogging a snowmobile trail in the fall (LX5 cutter) and more than once when hitting soft ground with one of the tires I felt a little nervous.

 

[wayupnth]

Orlo,

As I have said, I have about 65 acres and about half of that is for a horse boarding business so I can depreciate my equipment as well. I'll bet I have 150 stumps to remove. Did you look at any other stump grinders? How did you settle on the one you bought?

wayupnth

 

[RoyJackson]

Where are you located, wayupnth? Besides "way up North?"

 

[orlo]

The only other thing I considered is a Backhoe, but as I said I have a BH6000 for the 2305 and based on the depth I mentioned, even if I got a 448 for the 3720 (or 3320 at the time) I thought it would be messy. I think they list for the mid 5K to 6K. I got it for 5 flat. Worse case, if I ever don't need it anymore I figure the resale can't be that bad.

I didn't do a ton of research, but the dealer had sold some of these. (Had an SC-50 on the lot) and liked them. I got the video and liked the features of it and was impressed by the demo.

I like the single direction grinding as having all those extra teeth really speed up the grinding. So reverse is just to swing back, not to grind. It also looks like the teeth (came with a few spares) are really easy to replace.

You can still 'overbite' if you try. I stalled the 3720 once while getting used to it and biting off way too much and going too fast.

I did consider portable grinders (Like a Dr, or a Husqvarna) but they seem like toys (By the tiny size of the wheels) compared to a tractor mounted one.

The wheel on the SC-25 is 24 inches in diameter, thick and heavy. Really cuts fast. The SC-50 isn't that much more $$$ but you need a bigger tractor to run it.

 

[wayupnth]

Thanks Orlo,

Roy, I am located in Maine

 

[Superduper]

He was backing up a 2-3 foot high embankment (not very steep) on solid lawn that leads to the driveway. When his back wheels were on the driveway and the front was still at the bottom of the small hill, he turned the steering wheel and one rear wheel came right off the ground. Thankfully, he didn't tip.

Perhaps it's just me but a 3' high embankment is not a small hill if the 3' rise is a short run. These tractors only have a 68" wheelbase. The fact that the front wheels were still at the bottom of the hill when the rear tires already reached the 3' crest makes it a fairly steep angle. Don't know what that computes to but it's got to be greater than 23 degree angle. Perhaps you math wiz's out there can do the math of 36" rise vs 68" run. With a loader attached and insufficient rear ballast, I could see how the rear can get real light real fast. The 300cx loader weights 856 lbs and I don't know what bucket is attached but suffice it to say that 1,000+lbs is not out of the question. Some of this weight is already in front of the front axle and the higher you lift the rear, the greater the center of gravity shifts towards the front.

 

[Superduper]

Hi:

I have a 3720 cab and know the feeling. ;O) I'm getting loaded R3's swapped on but for now I have unloaded R4's that the dealer delivered it with waiting on the R3's. I had the pucker factor a few times when I was using the loader with a grapple with an 800lb stump grinder on the back. The loader is very strong and it's easy to lift one of the rear wheels off the ground if the loader is unbalanced (I was lifting tree trunks). More than once I downed the bucket as fast as I could, even having it very low to begin with.

I am getting 6" wheel extensions to bring the width out to 72" since I want it to feel as stable as it possibly can. Once you get used to it it's not as unstable as it feels. I wouldn't dare use my loader without a lot of ballast or my 1000-1100lb ballast block on the back. Even with loaded tires if you don't have ballast you can lift the rear easily.

When all else fails, follow manufacturers directions. Interestingly enough, hardly anyone seems to follow the manufacturer's operational manual instructions (for the loader) which calls for (3x20 tractor with 300cx loader) Filled rear tires, 75% with CACL solution, 3 rear wheel weights per side AND 1100 pounds of rear ballast. This was the MINIMUM ballast required for safe loader operation and according to manual, additional ballast may be necessary when operating heavy loads. Perhaps tippiness (front-back, side-side) will both be improved when operated as manufacturer suggests?

 

[orlo]

Agreed. I have to say most of the tippyness I don't like is side to side and not front to back. (I don't have Wheel weights, but always use the ballast block and generally have loaded tires (with 900lbs on the 3720). The dealer delivered with unloaded R4's just until I get my loaded R3's.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I have the larger R4's and had them filled with Rim Guard. The only time that I really feel tippy is when I bite off more than I can chew with the loader and it starts to lift a rear tire. This is with my 5' Harley rake (1000#) as ballast. It only tips until the front axle pivot limits ;-)

 

[wayupnth]

Well I now have had a chance to use a 4320 on the same terrain as my 3720 and in my opinion (and my wife as well) there is no comparison. The 4320 is about 20 inches wider and handles the ruts and slopes so much better. There is a different feel even though the center of gravity is higher. It doesn't feel all that much less maneuverable but you really notice the lack of that tippy feeling with every bump and rut. Now I need to decide what to do....

 

[orlo]

I say if you can fit the 4000 series go for it... I would have got a 4000 series (Probably a 4520) cab if it would have fit in my garage. With the non-cab units the ROPS fold so fitting shouldn't be an issue.

Will the extra weight be an issue with soil compaction or trailering?

 

[SuperDutyDave]

here's some thoughts

I went from a New Holland TN-75 (simlar to a 5000 series deere) to a new
3720 Cab...thinking that since I had larger tractor/loader on site a smaller tractor would give me more versatility. One year later I now own a new 4720 Cab...why several reasons...ability to handle a large turf-bat-wing mower mainly...but there are a few other reasons...

As much as I really liked the 3720 I can tell you there is a huge difference with it vs. my other tractors. Fit finish excellent cab great...power acceptable, loader capacity good...

Flaws...definitely too tippy...particularly side to side even with loaded tires etc. The reason...its too narrow and as such it become top heavy...too tall for too little width in my opinion...also the tires on the front (R4) are too small for loader work and too small for field ruts. Also do to the rather narrow/crowded rear tire/3pt hitch area...getting pto's attached and implments attached is somewhat difficult particularly if they are on the larger side.

I can tell you the difference in stablity and ride comfort from the 3000 series to the 4000 is night and day particuarlly if you are using in more Ag/rough terrain applications.

Good luck but spend the extra and get the 4720 it will be well worth the $$$ spent.

Dave