3520-Cab, Parking Brake Cable Jambed!

[tugboat-2]

Hi Gang, Been lurking for 3 years and finally jumped in. Have gained much from you-all over the years and now I have a problem for which I hope I can get some help,....please.
My JD-3520 Cab has never had much of a parking brake, even after the dealer adjusted it(?) Wonderful dealer actually, no complaints there. Today while launching my boat in my homemade "Lake",..I really needed to apply the parking brake and it just wouldn't hold,...so I actually stood up and bounced on the brakes while pulling the park button. It worked, held firmly but then it refused to release. I backed up a few feet onto level ground (with brakes dragging) and tried hard but could not get it to release. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
. . Mike

 

[B8FISH]

Try a quick search for jammed brakes--you'll find this thread--here is a part of the suggested fix:
Are the brakes jammed, or is the parking brake jammed? The linkage on the cabs (I have a 3720 cab too) is very sensitive to bending the little cable at the end of the parking brake. Mine got jammed and the parking brake wouldn't release. Basically when I pushed the red button the cable slipped through the end and wouldn't release the brake pawl even though the red 'release' button was hitting the dash.

Look under the hood, the end of the cable is just two 90 degree bends "__|--" and if the cable bends a little it'll slip right through and your brake will be stuck on. A pair of needle nose pliers and some elbow grease should help you.

I'm betting that's what it is. If the red parking brake release doesn't feel as if it's doing anything that's definitely it. A slightly poor design but in my case it came from pressing the red release while the brake pedal wasn't pushed hard enough (or at all) and bending the cable. (It's a solid core cable so it holds a bend). The pawl is spring loaded to engage so without the cable to push it out it doesn't matter how hard you press the brake pedal it won't release. The pawl's teeth and either a slight spring preload or just gravity prevent it from disengaging until the release cable pushes it away. A better design would release it (with a spring) as soon as you pressed on the brake pedal.

 

[DrainPondDesign]

Tugboat,

Try pressing on both brake pedals hard and then push in the brake release button.

As I understand the 33xx series cab brake button, it engages a pawl on a ratchet so the brake really isn't set unless you were pressing on the brake pedal while pulling the button.

My 3320 brake releases much more easily if I'm standing on the pedal hard.


I drop the bucket or weight box to the ground as a brake or anchor, just remember to raise it before driving off again.


The 4wd lever will disengage more easily if you back up a few feet first before moving it.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I drop the bucket or weight box to the ground as a brake or anchor, just remember to raise it before driving off again.

Same here...while my P-Brake works, I've never liked the "feel" of how it dis-engages, etc... not suprisingly I read posts here about em getting jammed.

Aint that the truth about remembering to raise your "anchor".. I once stopped for lunch...dropped the GB65 box blade & FEL down...a few hours later I hop in and take off...I say to myself "why is she pulling hard now"...turn around and see the box blade FULL of beautiful grass...yeah SWMBO wasnt too happy...

 

[tugboat-2]

OK Guys, I'm back. Sorry to leave you-all hangin' there. Finally located that little cable end down in behind the engine almost under the dash. It looked fine, but would not move. Wasn't bent or pushed through the hole or anything, but no matter what I did, could NOT make it disengage!

Last resort,....and I hate to resort to violence, but I had to do something, so grabbed a 3 ft crowbar and wedged it down in behind the paul and wiggled and worked it and finally gave it a good one and BINGO! It let go. Nothing "seems" to be harmed and the brakes are free, but there is still hardly any play in the red button and the brake light is still on.

However, I was able to drive it back to the house where there is light and tools. I'll keep working on it because I'm leary about using the brakes for the moment and I need to get that Park Brake light off.

Mainly,.....I wanted to express my sincere gratitude to those that jumped in.
Thanks B8FISH (Todd),..great advice, would not have found the part without your guidance. Did that originally come from Orlo? If so thanks Orlo.

DrainPondDesign:...my thanks to you and SpudlandDave as well. As for using an anchor instead of Park Brake,..yes I too generally do that, but had to get rid of all rear "length" in order to squeeze in to pick up the boat, (an alluminum pontoon pedal boat Aqua-Cycle,..not heavy) and did not miss my "anchor" till I was down the bank and had to disembarque the tractor wheelhouse to unchain the boat,...and desparately needed brakes!

And yes, most definitely, I too have left the anchor down and gathered up my lawn a couple times. Once should be enough,......no?

I'll keep working on it and let you know my findings asap.

My sincere thanks to all!
. . . Mike, (tugboat-2)

 

[B8FISH]

Mike--no problem--but the credit goes to Orlo!
Todd

 

[orlo]

Tug:

To release it you must push very hard on the brake pedal. The pawls lock until you give it enough pressure to unmesh the teeth. That's kind of what can bend the cable, if you just push the brake button without pressing down on the brake pedal (hard) the cable just bends.

Kind of a poor design. Seems like the release should be spring loaded so just pressing hard on the pedal would let the pawl free up.

 

[tugboat-2]

Hi Orlo, . . . . Is it possible I've done some damage by pushing tooooooooo hard on the brake pedals? I unlocked the two and the left immediately came free. The right which, of course, is connected to the Parking Brake assembly, was hesitant to come free but finally did. The red button has hardly any play but down at the cable end,...it seems ok,..not bent or shoved through the hole etc. It "looks" ok,..but the dash light is still on.

Down under the tractor, all the park brake assembly linkage is free. The cam is against the light-switch and I "think" it should "not" be, (at least I believe the pressure against it keeps the light lit?) Is that correct? I am unable to back the cam away from the switch completely, or enough to turn off the light. (An assistant in the cab would be of value,...p'raps today?)

I'm 6' 5" @ 225 lbs and have jumped and bounced pretty hard on that brake pedal while pushing the red button to no avail. I'm hoping I haven't twisted some of the linkage somewhere? What seems "odd" to me, is the position of the pawl at the end of the cable. It is flush on the "side" of the brake Park-Lock arm, the part with the teeth on the half moon. That arm tends to move, BUT the pawl does not,..not even wiggle! It's "solid" against the side of the arm and the bottom part of the pawl that curves out and I "think" should engage the teeth when the button is pulled,....could not possibly contact the teeth,..as it may as well be welded to its tooth bar. (ALMOST makes me think its on the "WRONG" side of the toothbar?) I'm almost sure that cannot be as it should? ("If" I understand how it works?)

The tractor is driveable as is, even with the brake light on,...BUT I hate the fact that "sumpthin-jes-aint-right-here"!!!

Now Orlo,...if this takes you a tad past the comfort zone of your expertise, then "for-the-luva-mike", say so and "DON'T feel obligated to figure it out, as you have already helped me a lot and I am very grateful to you!

I have the expensive manual on my lap, and have been through it at least a dozen times and aside from a couple drawings that don't seem to jive,..I am not pleased with the lack of info on this particular topic. I've had it with me in the Cab, down under the tractor and have sat here studying it for hours,...and you know,..praps it's true, that men just get plumb stupid in our old age,..BUT, I am unable to find anything useful on this problem in this manual!!!!!??

So Orlo, don't feel bad if you are stumped also,(even if you aint "old" and stupid like me!)....my dealer is good folk and not far away. But I'll keep working on it before I give up and go there! But I thank you very much thus far!
. . . Tug (aka: Mike)

 

[orlo]

I'm not sure I can quite picture it and I'm away from my tractor but it sounds weird. The only other thing I can think of is if there was a bur in the pawl holding it so it wouldn't disengage.

I'm perplexed... :?)

 

[B8FISH]

Not sure if it would help...maybe check the diagram in JDParts and see if it is assembled correctly, with all the right pieces?? The diagrams are usually pretty good and would at least give you a place to start.

 

[tugboat-2]

B8Fish:...thanks for that suggestion, (good one) I have a very slow dial-up and JDParts was extremely frustratingly slow, but I do have the expensive manual with a diagram, . . . so,..I'll address this to ORLO,..(and anyone else who might be knowledgeable on this):

ORLO: re: your entry of 07-19-2008 @ 11:30AM: and your thumbnail of the Parking Brake Diagram. That is exactly as I have on page 723 of my manual. Geeeeeeeze ORLO, I hate to further bug you on this issue,...but you seem to have a grip on the topic so I'm hoping you'll stay with me a tad longer? (But, tell me to get lost if you like).

Is the diagram drawn correctly? OR, should item F (the pawl), be on the other side of item G? In other words should F be between G and H? Mine is EXACTLY as shown in the diagram, but TIGHT against G. So "IF", the bottom curved dog of F, is supposed to engage the teeth of G when red button is pulled, . . how is that possible IF the drawing is accurate?

Perhaps I misunderstand the whole thing,...but I can't figure how it could possibly work as shown. Is it possible mine was assembled wrong at the factory? Any help on this is greatly appreciated!!!
. . . Tug

 

[tugboat-2]

OK Boys and Girls,...I'm back: I have answers finally! First of all, I have no idea how to post photos, so I must refer you to the above mentioned item of "ORLO", posted 07-19-2008 @ 11:30AM, under I believe: JAMBED BRAKES, it is a thumbnail of the 3X20-Cab series Parking Brake "PARTS" assembly. It is exactly as shown on page 723 of the big expensive Shop Manual issued for my 2006 JD-3520-Cab tractor.

As you'll recall in my above entry: I ask a really stupid question concerning the "accuracy" of the parts "placement" in that official diagram (of page 723). On page 725, the working "Theory" of those parts is explained. Geeeze I wish I could post the photo here to refer to, (but I can't, thro' ignorance) But I'll explain briefly so the interested can check it out, if desired.

BRIEFLY: it says: you step down on the brakes and pull out the red dash knob and the red knob cable will cause the "PAWL" (F) to ROTATE forward and engage the teeth of the "LOCK-LEVER"(G) which will hold the brakes in the "ON" position.

To Release the brakes: you step down on the brakes and push the red knob "IN" causing the "PAWL"(F) to disengage from the teeth of "LOCK-LEVER" (G).

OK so far? It all makes sense right? The Problem: my brake assembly is exactly as shown in the diagram. So in that position, the "Rotating PAWL" could NOT possibly engage the teeth of the Lock Lever! It's on the wrong side and the bottom dog of the PAWL can't engage the teeth! Agreed?? (But even if it could engage the teeth, it couldn't hold anything! Examine it, what could it possibly do??)

So I dropped by my friendly JD Dealer,..showed him the page and asked if the drawing was accurate? Not just 1, but 3 experts studied it, scratched their heads and suggested they send a mechanic over to examine it.

The lad came next morning, examined it, said the cable was bent, ordered a new one, came back next AM, put it on and it works better than NEW!!!

THE ANSWER: Yes the cable was bent, NOT at the "end" as we all suspected, but in the middle, the outer casing and all was bent. BUT, the IMPORTANT part is that my Diagram "suspicion" was "not" so stupid after all,...BECAUSE, it DOESN'T work exactly as the BOOK explains!!!

The "Rotating-PAWL",...in fact, does NOT "rotate"! It really seems to be an UNnecessary piece,..because it is bolted solid to the Lock-Lever(G) and is "ONLY" a place to loop the cable to. They could have just as easily looped the cable end through the hole at the top of the Lock-Lever(G),...BECAUSE the cable actually "pulls" the "LOCK-LEVER"(G) back (toward the operator) where it engages a stationary "DOG" (which is just out of the picture, down near the lower-right corner of the diagram). If you look at the diagram you'll see the pivot assembly at the bottom of the Lock-Lever(G).

So, actually the diagram is, in fact, accurate. BUT, the "Theory of Operation" on page 725,....."IS QUITE WRONG" !!!

I'm not going to argue the point, but I suspect my cable was bent at the factory as it has "never" worked properly. I can't believe just how beautifully and smoothly it operates now!!! Perfect!!!

I do, once again,..want to express my apologies AND gratitude to those who came to my assistance on this matter. It could have been simpler, had the Book (bible) been accurate in its explanation. I wonder if they changed this mid-stream AFTER the book had "gone" to press? "ALL" my wasted HOURS spent studying the diagram and re-reading the THEORY OF OPERATION,..climbing under with flashlight, checking the book,...trying, TRYING,...in vain to figure it out,...AND,..asking you guys to sacrifice "your" time and effort to assist me with something that in the end,... was very misleading and inaccurate! (OH, I dislike it when people SHIFT the blame, but in this case,.. it's JD's fault,...not ours!)

Thanks again and CHEERS!
. . . tug

 

[jya]

Thought I'd chime in on this older thread since, although it did not solve my issue, it was re-assurring to know that this problem was not unique to me. Reading it helped me understand how this thing is tied together with the peddles. The first thing I learned is that I have been setting the park break on my 3320 incorrectly. I was merely pulling up on the handle. I would expect the majority of the time I had the brake peddles depressed since I had just stopped, but I imagine some times they weren't. I too had this sluggishness and as soon as I clutched in to shift gears the tractor would come to a stop! It wouldn't free wheel. The John Deere service guys recommended checking the hydraulic fluid level but it was good. It turns out as I was trying to figure out the linkage described in the thread, I found a small rock lodged at the end of the linkage which was preventing the brake to release. I simple removed the rock and voila...when I clutched in to shift the tractor would coast into the next gear. Problem solved, thanks fellas!