3 pt. drawbar hitch question

[Beervangelist]

I'm running a Ford 2N and would like to pull a hay wagon or other utility trailers around the farm.

I got a drawbar from TSC, but did not purchase the stay straps. It fits, but predictably, sways back and forth.

My question is this:

Do I move ahead with the stay straps which were a) out of stock and b) expensive and c) look like pain in the *** to put on and off

OR

Is this device 3 Point Drawbar Trailer Hitch CAT-1 -- 3 Point Rear Attachments that uses the top-link, worth finding, and do I have any chance of finding it locally?


Any other 2N towing advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mudfarmer]

The attachment you are looking at is good. I just got the other product that that outfit produces and sells on EBay(the three point receiver model). Heavy, wellmade, cheap and fits my JD perfectly on a Harbor Freight quick release.

Note - if you are pulling a trailer with a ball mount you will need something stable like this otherwise the bar twists and can twist off the trailer hook-up as you rase and lower the three point. If you are pulling with a pin through holes then the simple draw bar works better since it angles appropriately when the three point is raised. Either way you will have side to side sway unless you tighten down the side stabilizing turnbuckles on the three point lift arms. Not necessary if you are only going forward, but a ***** to back up if you don't.
Mf

 

[6011Artist]

That hitch will work good to move a trailer around but the reciever type hitch works so much better. It allows the ball to stick out behind your tractor and gives a better turning radius without binding. I think they are available for about 150.00.

You got a welder or a friend with one? I build them from old removed hitches from trucks or I can buy the reciever tube only and build them from scratch a lot cheaper than 150.00. Go to the "build it yourself" forum and look around. There is usually a lot of ideas and pics in there on these hitches.

To keep the side sway out of my hitch, I use 1 bar on 1 side on my TO35 Ferguson, works good for me.

 

[teg]

https://www.imcuniverse.com/store/ezmover.htm

As seen on TBN (click on the "store")

 

[Soundguy]

I would also use a stabilizer bar to keep the hitc from swaying side to side.

tisco makes an A frame kit to bolt to an 11 hole drawbar.. you then hook the toplink and side links to it, and install a ball on the drawbar.. cost 5ys ago was about 20$

soundguy

 

[clemsonfor]

I made this to move trailers around the yard. I found the bottom metal in the woods, bought the pins at my carquest for around $6 a peice, bought the top staps of 1/8'' from him for around $7 cut and welded it up. Had the receiver hitch that i bought from agrisupply for something else and did not use it. I should have made it heavier but intended to move trailors now im going to make a disk hiller to go on a toolbar , which is why i put the vertical metal angle to help support it. Wish i had made it heavier but i will use it and if i twist it up i will remake stronger i guess if not great.

 

[clemsonfor]

heres the pic did not work at first?:confused2:

 

[wolc123]

My 1951 8n came from the factory with a couple flat steel adjustable straps that connect between the pins on either end of the multi-holed drawbar and the top link. The adjustments allow you to set the height and lock it at the desired level. These work good for haywagons but not so good with ball hitches as they dont prevent the rotation problem mentioned above, but that has not been a problem for me as long as the ball is properly sized (a 1-1/2 dont work so good on a 2" like you can get away with on a rigid hitch). You will still get some side to side sway which can be eliminated with a stabilizer bar kit, which gives you a second set of straps and a set of brackets that mount near the rear axle on each side. With a 2n, I dont think you got position control on the hydraulics, so I think you would be better off with the factory style drawbar straps, and stabilizer bars vs the 3-point receiver rigs like a few guys have mentioned. Otherwise you wont have good control of the hitch height. Without a doubt, they should be available aftermarket as the Ford n-series are still the single most popular tractor model in existance today, and drawbar straps and stabilizer kit combined should cost less than the receiver hitch shown above. You will still get side to side sway with that receiver hitch if you dont get the stabilizer bar kit. The 2n dont have turnbuckles you can tighten up like on the modern CUT's that the other poster must be thinking of.

 

[Kaliburz]

I think Northern Tool sells something you can bolt to a multi-hole tow bar. I don't recall how much they are. I build one since I had some steel laying around. You can get 2" tube and file the seam inside it flat... or you can actually get trailer 2" tube. Or, as stated, cut one off an old hitch from the salvage yard.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

If you do not come up with something like the OEM stuff wolc123 was talking about if your tongue weight goes negative it can lift your arms to max height in a micro second and if going down a hill with a load it can get dicey fast.

You really need solid bars from the top link down to each ball hole at the end of each arm. The ball hitch as noted will not work if the draw bar can still rotate.