3 pt arms hitting BH 65 subframe

[tractchores]

I'm wondering if anyone using a B2x20 and the BH 65 backhoe might be able to send me some pics of how their 3 pt is setup, or give me some pointers. On mine I'm noticing that the linkage between the lift arms and lower arms hits the BH subframe as I raise and lower an implement. its just a glancing blow, not enough to bind anything, but its scratching up the metal. I'm using a Wallenstein chipper, so the implement is relatively wide and the arms are close to their maximum width. I think the problem goes away if I move the links further out to the second hole in the lower arms, but then the chipper can't lower all the way. I'm wondering if there's some adjustment I'm missing or if maybe there is an adjustment i could make. Any pics or descriptions of how yours is setup would be really helpful.

Thanks!

 

[tractchores]

Thought I would update this post for folks who find it via search and might have the same issue. I corrected this issue by moving the linkage between the lower arms and lift arms on the 3 point to the outer hole. This provides the clearance I need. I also am careful to make sure the check chains are tight to avoid swings side to side that could hit the sub frame. To deal with the issue of getting my chipper on the ground to put it on and take it off i built a dolly, which makes life MUCH easier and solves the problem nicely.

 

[SergioA]

I have a similar problem when I push snow with my box scraper, if I back up in a snow bank and raise the box scraper while pushing, it sometimes hits the subframe. I lowered the hight of the arms by the adjusting the threaded rod, but since there is no down pressure, it the implement is raised due to backing up into something like snow, it will hit the subframe.

 

[beckmurph]

SegioA
Would you have your lower ams on backwards?
In another post you made the comment "you had to take a
rear tire off to add/remove your backhoe". Something
isn't quite right in both situations.:confused3:

 

[tractchores]

I have a similar problem when I push snow with my box scraper, if I back up in a snow bank and raise the box scraper while pushing, it sometimes hits the subframe. I lowered the hight of the arms by the adjusting the threaded rod, but since there is no down pressure, it the implement is raised due to backing up into something like snow, it will hit the subframe.

My arms just barely touch the subframe when raised to the maximum position. I think of it as another check chain, which will ensure that the implement doesn't get pushed up too high (not sure if the tractor would have anything in place to prevent the arms from being pushed up all the way without the subframe).

 

[SergioA]

Beckmurph:
I will double check tomorrow, but I don't think so? How do you remove you 3pt hitch arms without removing the wheels? You have to punch that pin out to one side to remove one arm and then punch it to the other side to remove the other one, without forgetting to loossen the center bolt. I don't see any other way of doing it without removing the rear wheels? If there is an easier way, please let me know, as I find it a pain to switch from one to another.
Thanks.

 

[tractchores]

Beckmurph:
I will double check tomorrow, but I don't think so? How do you remove you 3pt hitch arms without removing the wheels? You have to punch that pin out to one side to remove one arm and then punch it to the other side to remove the other one, without forgetting to loossen the center bolt. I don't see any other way of doing it without removing the rear wheels? If there is an easier way, please let me know, as I find it a pain to switch from one to another.
Thanks.

Not sure on yours, but on mine you just slide it over enough to get the 3pt arm on then do it on the otjer side. Theres plenty of clearance to do so with wheels on and the subframe has holes to allow the pin to slide over far enough.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Beckmurph:
I will double check tomorrow, but I don't think so? How do you remove you 3pt hitch arms without removing the wheels? You have to punch that pin out to one side to remove one arm and then punch it to the other side to remove the other one, without forgetting to loossen the center bolt. I don't see any other way of doing it without removing the rear wheels? If there is an easier way, please let me know, as I find it a pain to switch from one to another.
Thanks.

The wheels do not have to be removed if the "pin" is maintained regularly.
The pin has a retaining bolt/lock nut assembly in the middle just above the fixed hitch. Remember to loosen this up.

If the pin is kept well greased (not rusted) it can be slide left with a small pry bar and slight pressure then you remove right arm. Slide back right and remove left arm. To help I have a small bolt I put in the pins holes for the pry bar to rest against.

taking tires of and mashing this pin strongarm is only needed it the lock bolt/nut is not backed off and if the pin is not greased and kept rust free.

I take my BH65 backhoe off my B2620 weekly as I swap the BH65 with the post hole auger, snow blower in winter, cultivator, etc.... and never have to remove my tires. (2012 B2620 w/ FEL, BH65 backhoe, Buhler snowblower, Speeco post hole auger, cultivator, TSC landplane, etc...)

 

[tractchores]

The wheels do not have to be removed if the "pin" is maintained regularly.
The pin has a retaining bolt/lock nut assembly in the middle just above the fixed hitch. Remember to loosen this up.

If the pin is kept well greased (not rusted) it can be slide left with a small pry bar and slight pressure then you remove right arm. Slide back right and remove left arm. To help I have a small bolt I put in the pins holes for the pry bar to rest against.

taking tires of and mashing this pin strongarm is only needed it the lock bolt/nut is not backed off and if the pin is not greased and kept rust free.

I take my BH65 backhoe off my B2620 weekly as I swap the BH65 with the post hole auger, snow blower in winter, cultivator, etc.... and never have to remove my tires. (2012 B2620 w/ FEL, BH65 backhoe, Buhler snowblower, Speeco post hole auger, cultivator, TSC landplane, etc...)

I find that some wd 40 and a metal bar through the hole on the end will free it up. I greased mine and now it moves easily with light pressure.

 

[Renob]

Sergio ,

When new the 3pt pin on my B2620 would not slide freely. Dealer mechanic ended up using a die grinder to remove a small amount of metal that was binding the pin. Now it slides smooth as silk. No pry bar needed. This may be your problem.