3 Point pick up problem ?

[Outbackfarm]

Hi everyone, I have a quick question, I looked over the past postings and did not see any thing that resembles this situation so here it goes:


I started my Jinma 284 this morning and it fired right up, picked the FEL up and it instantly responded and worked normally. I then went to raise the three point with a small box blade up off of the ground, and the box would not lift. Opened the throttle and tried to lift again still nothing happened, held the three point lever in “Raise” position for about 10 -15 seconds and finally very slowly the box blade came up off of the ground and went all the way into the fully raised position, lowered it back to the ground and tried to raise it again and did much better, by the third or forth time, it was responding pretty close to what I remember as normal. I loaded the three points down with 300 lbs of additional weight and it picked up with no problems. The temperature outside was about 40* and the hydraulic oil in the tractor is the same oil that it was shipped with. (The tractor has only 4 hrs on it) . I am going to switch out the hydro fluid in the next couple of weeks in case it is related to the old fluid.

This brings up yet another issue I noted with some surprise that at least one of the regular contributors to this page uses Automatic Transmission Fluid in the hydraulics’ in their Jinma ! Is this an acceptable fluid ? Advantages / Disadvantages ?.

Thanks everyone, The support offered on this web site was one of the main reasons that I bought a Jinma, It is a great tractor and I am very happy with it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif


Scott

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( at least one of the regular contributors to this page uses Automatic Transmission Fluid in the hydraulics’ in their Jinma ! Is this an acceptable fluid ? Advantages / Disadvantages ? )</font>

That's a new one on me. Sure you weren't reading about UTF? That's not the same as ATF. The problem you describe is reported at one time or another by many new Jinma owner who haven't drained out the crud that Jinma puts in the hydraulic system before shipping.

Once you flush that thick stuff out of there, I personally see no advantage to using ATF over a designated hydraulic fluid. AW32 is most often recommended for cool/cold climates. Besides that, it's generally easier - and maybe cheaper - to find AW32 in 5 gallon buckets, than it is to bring quality ATF home by the case.

//greg//

 

[MarkNHow]

Scott

I have a Jinma 284 and the 3 point won't lift for 4 or 5 minutes when it's around 10 to 20 degrees. Don't know what kind of loader you have but I have a Koyker 160 and it will work but slow until the tractor warms up. I have AW32 in mine. Other suggestions have been 303 universal tractor fluid. Don't know about automatic transmission fluid.

I changed fluids at 25 hours do to dealer suggestion but if I would've known the quality of fluids in the tractor that would have been the first thing I would have done.

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a Jinma 284 and the 3 point won't lift for 4 or 5 minutes when it's around 10 to 20 degrees.... I have AW32 in mine. Other suggestions have been 303 universal tractor fluid. )</font>

Mark, it sounds like you didn't flush the OE fluid (or clean the suction filter) before pouring in your AW32. There should be no "warm up" time for AW32 at those temps. You're likely circulating hydraulic soup made out of AW32 and the original Asian crud.

303 has about a 20W equivalent, as opposed to 10W for the AW32. The difference in thickness will become apparent in cool/cold weather.

//greg//

 

[Outbackfarm]

This is the old post were I read about the ATF fluid in the hydro


"Which is the preferable Hydraulic Fluid for a Jinma 224? I am going to change out the fluids next week and would like some thoughts.

Hey John,

I'm sure that you will have different opinions on this Subject, but I will tell you what I am doing so far. Keep in mind that I am down on the Gulf Coast and that it is much warmer down here than up in the Cold Country. This year, about the coldest that it got was about +20F, and not even sure if it got that cold, and that was only for a few nights.

I get all of my fluids at WalMart. I use Shell 15w/40 Rotella T for the Engine, and Shell 30w Non Detergent for the Fuel Pump, SuperTech Hydralic/Transmission Fluid for the Hydralics/Power Steering, 85w/140 for the Transmission and the Front Drive, but I may drop down to the 80w/90 for the Transmission and Front Drive, if I start getting a lot of foaming. I read on the Super Tech container and it said on both the 80w90 and 85w140, that it fights foaming, and resists corosion on Copper and Bronze, so I am thinking that it is compatible with the metals inside the Transaxle, Transmission and the Front Drive. I am giving the 85w140 a try, because it is thicker and may help to prevent leaks in the future.

Whichever oil that you choose to use, Be sure that oil is flowing into the Creeper Gear Housing.

Have a nice day,
Joe

The More I Learn, The Less I know "

 

[SPIKER]

the hyd system on the JINMAs are prettty tough and not all that finiacky: universal 303 , UTF, AW32 or ATF will all work fine. the atf is pretty easy to come by but so is the 303 or UTF the aw32 is a bit harder (none at wally world.) they do carry 5 gall of the UTF and 303 type oils though. I use 303 type in mine ever since abotu 5 hrs run time. it takes a min or two in REALLY cold temps (run mine in under -20 temps already and she worked but took 2~3 min of 1K rpm running to warm up a bit and circulate fluid. to raise a 450lb box blade.)


normally she is less than 30 sec for cold temps and right away in anything above 45 degrees no lag in raise time. it is the hard fluid flow getting going.

be sure to change the fluid flush out the hyd resiviour and clean the flimsy suction filter under the seat. 3 bolt flange after removing the big line... be carefull it is easly damaged. rinse it out and while the top is off spray some fuel in there with the drain open to flush out any fallen debris...

MakrM

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( SuperTech Hydralic/Transmission Fluid for the Hydralics/Power Steering, )</font>
As I suspected, that's not ATF. It's WallyWorld UTF (universal tractor fluid). I'm pretty sure the label will list it as a 303 equivalent.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( aw32 is a bit harder )</font>

It's very easy to find. Besides area POL distributors, every auto parts store and every farm supply store I've ever been in sells AW32 - or will get it for you quickly. 5 gal buckets are most common, although I've seen it in 2.5g jugs too.

//greg//

 

[Outbackfarm]

Thanks everyone, I going camping this weekend but next week the old fluid is out of here !!!

You guys are the best, Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.

I will let everyone know if this solves the situation. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( next week the old fluid is out of here !!!)</font>

Don't forget to clean/inspect/replace the suction filter as required.
Wouldn't hurt to have a spare in hand before you go to all the work of taking the old one out.
They've been known to collapse beyond practical repair.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It's very easy to find. Besides area POL distributors, every auto parts store and every farm supply store I've ever been in sells AW32 )</font>

I think it is a temperature thing.. but down here in mid florida.. aw46 is our common 'plain' hyd oil. TSC, napa, etc carries it... though are glad to order aw32 if you ask for it..

Soundguy

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> This brings up yet another issue I noted with some surprise that at least one of the regular contributors to this page uses Automatic Transmission Fluid in the hydraulics’ in their Jinma ! Is this an acceptable fluid ? </font>

<font color="blue"> SuperTech Hydralic/Transmission Fluid for the Hydralics/Power Steering, </font>

Hey Scott,

No, Scott, I don't use ATF, in my little 224's Hydralic's. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I should have said "OIL", and not "Fluid". Sorry Scott, I didn't mean to mislead you or anybody else. It never crossed my mind that someone would misinterpret to mean "ATF".

I'll try to find that post and make the correction.

Not all WalMart stores carry the Tractor Oils. But the Super Tech is available in either Straight Tractor Hydralic Oil or Hydralic/Transmission Oil. I use the Hydralic/Transmission Oil, because it is supposed to have better lubricating properties.

So far, my hydralics are working well. But I did have to tighten the intake filter plate, because the bolts were not very tight.

Have a nice day,
Joe

 

[MarkNHow]

Greg

At the time I got my tractor I didn't read about flushing. I changed fluid and cleaned the filter. Not to hijack the thread but why does the FEL respond immediately while the 3 point takes more time?

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( why does the FEL respond immediately while the 3 point takes more time? )</font>
Stronger cylinders for one, they're rated at - what - 2200 lbs ? - as opposed to your 725# TPH..... might also have something to do with the way the FEL is plumbed in. Perhaps it's using cold fluid already in the lines, that isn't inhibited by having to be cold-strained through the suction filter.

//greg//

 

[Outbackfarm]

Thanks for all of the good information! Also I did misread the whole ATF use as hydraulic oil, but I bet I was not the only one who did. OK I am now armed with all of the information I need to do the job, except the part about flushing the system. I searched the entire Chinese tractor forum looking for information on flushing the old hydraulic oil out of the tractor and I found a post that tells me to remove the strainer and the drain plug and use diesel fuel to washout the hydraulic reservoir. Before filling with the new oil. No problem, but what about the oil in the lines and the hydraulic cylinders? Do I need to clean these out as well? Or will the small amount in these items (With the FEL lowered all the way and the tilt all the way back) not matter when it is mixed with the much larger amount in the reservoir? I am sorry that I am asking so many questions but I cannot be the only person reading these pages that are at least thinking about these things. I am very careful to look for answers in previous posts and did not see a complete answer to this.

Thanks again everyone

Scott
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( what about the oil in the lines and the hydraulic cylinders? Do I need to clean these out as well? )</font>

The procedure is there, I've posted it several times. I will admit though, that the search engine on this site leaves a bit to be desired.

I strongly advise flushing the entire system; to include pumps/hoses/cylinders. Personal choice, but I prefer kerosene to diesel fuel. You simply drain the old crud, top up to the dipstick mark with kerosene, close up the system, start the tractor. Drive a few figure 8s to clean the steering, raise and lower the TPH and FEL respectively. Stop engine/drain, being careful to have a LARGE container. More comes out that you will have put in. Watch closely what comes out. I use a strainer to help determine if a 2nd flush is required, plus that way you can re-use the original kerosene.

Residual kerosene is volatile enough to evaporate over time, so I don't bother with this next step. Since the specific gravity of kerosene (~0.82) is different than AW32 (~0.86), there is a way to get more kerosene back out. This is another argument to use kerosene rather than diesel (SG ~0.84); it separates better. After your final fill let the TPH and FEL down so that all hydraulics are retracted. Give the kerosene and AW32 time to separate, the kerosene will go to the bottom of the reservior.

If you go the evaporation route, just remember to top up the AW32 level periodically.

//greg//

 

[Outbackfarm]

Thanks Greg, I did a search for "flush" "flushed" and other such terms and did not find this information.


Scott /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif