3 point or pull type rotary cutter

/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #1  

spd132

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2008
Messages
28
Been looking for a used rotary cutter for my 640 Ford and ran across a 5' pull type with a good price. I have been operating tractors since I was 10 years old but the only pull type cutter I have used is a 15' batwing. Any time I mowed on my grand parents farm, it was with a 3 point mounted cutter. What are the advantages and disadvantages of a pull type rotary cutter?
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #2  
Backing up would be an issue with the pull type for me while getting into square fence corners.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #3  
Having had both over the years, 3 pt, hands down. Won't regret it and I think they are a little cheaper too.

Mark
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #4  
Two most obvious differences are:
Hooking them up, without some form of quick hitch attaching 3PH implements can be a challenge Pull type drop in the draw pin, hook up the PTO shaft, If hydraulic lift connect the hose(s).

maneuvering would be the other difference.

Like you I was farm raised so backing implements is not an issue. If mowing in soft areas the extra weight of the 3PH could provide more traction or get you real stuck & 3PH implements are a real PITA to unhook when the implement is buried in mud.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #5  
I am currently using my 3pt rotaty cutter to clear a lot of brush and have found backing up over them works the best. Wouldn't work very well with a tow-behind.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #6  
much has to do with what you are mowing. I would be happy with either type for 1/2 of the mowing I do-open fields. I think my 3pt. cutter is much better for woods roads, small clearings, etc.

Will
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #7  
Pulled an 8' Mohawk behind a Ford 5000 for about 10 years in mostly open pastures. Backing it in under low tree branches was never an issue. Present ranch has heavily wooded pastures so our present 8ft. (On NH TL-100A) and 5 ft. (on Kubota B2710) 3-point cutters work better.

We cut the big open areas with the NH and 8 ft. cutter, then get closer to trees with Kubota and 5 ft. cutter, or the 72" MMM on the Kubota. Occasionally take the JD Z820A ZT to get under trees as required. We essentially have 4 cutters to work with.


image-2692249856.jpg

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #8  
I've used pull-type mowers a lot in the past, and I have a 3-point one now.

One big advantage of the pull-type is that it's easier to keep a consistent mowing height across undulating property than it is with a 3 point mounted mower. The 3 point mower moves up and down as the front of the tractor moves up and down. The pull-type's gauge wheels control the height and keep it consistent regardless of what the terrain is doing to the tractor.

Backing a pull-type mower is no different or more difficult than backing a trailer.

The big advantage of the 3 point mounted mower is mowing around trees and other obstacles.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #9  
I'd get a 3ph hands down.

More maneuverable
Easier to transport
Easier backing over brush
Easier crossing obsticals like creeks or whatnot
And you have the ability to raise quickly if you hit a log, rock, etc
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #10  
If your pull type gets hung up and you are on muddy ground it's a done deal. With a three point you can sometimes raise it and get yourself out of a tough spot.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #11  
I would like to have one of each. A big azz batwing for the open areas and 3 point for the tighter areas and trimming the edges.. Currently I only have two 3 points, a 5' and a 6'. Maybe some day I will have a big bat wing.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #12  
prefer 3pt. some areas i need to backup with deck raised, and then lower deck down. (taking out some nasty thorn bushes or like) and tail wheel would get hung up.
able to backup over edge of lake/pond edge some with 3pt.

bumper pull / ball pull. *grumbles* for me has been issue backing up. its the 2 wheels (one on each side of the back) and loves to jack knife on me suddenly when backing up.

i can get into some nasty wash outs all of a sudden or ditches, were a pull behind would be caught up. vs a 3pt that i could raise up to get me through the ditch.

if the pull behind has a hydrualic cylinder to raise/lower deck, errr rear wheels on it. it can make things nicer, but if you have to manually raise lower deck. it can get to be a pain.

=============
for 3pt hitch.... some turn buckles for top link and/or side link have been lost for ever in the pasture here. put a piece of wire around the turn buckles so if they do start to come un screwed on ya. the wire will hopefully catch the turn buckle and keep it on tractor. or prevent the turn buckle from unscrewing at all.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #13  
I've got both and for pasture mowing, I always prefer the pull type. Areas with a lot of trees or anything that requires a lot of maneuvering, the 3 point hitch type works better.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #14  
If the price is right on the pull type,then buy it. There is no "PERFECT" type of rotary mower. It is always a compromise.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #15  
The best compromise IMO is the ones with the chain that goes from the toplink part down to the tailwheel in lieu of the ridgid straps. They follow the ground a lot better.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #16  
The best compromise IMO is the ones with the chain that goes from the toplink part down to the tailwheel in lieu of the ridgid straps. They follow the ground a lot better.

Right. And if you have a hard link down the the tailwheel, you can use a chain as the top link to create the same flexibility.
 
/ 3 point or pull type rotary cutter #17  
If the price is right on the pull type,then buy it. There is no "PERFECT" type of rotary mower. It is always a compromise.

Good Advice.
 
 

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