3 Point Log Splitter and Hydraulic Level

[walker450]

Good morning!

I purchased a 3 point log cylinder with a H U G E cylinder. It is roughly 40 years old and the person had no idea when the fluids were changed on any of their equipment. It was basically an estate sale situation.

I am going to drain it the best I can, hook it up, then top off the fluid on my tractor with new fluid.

Question... do I simply extend extend retract the cylinder a few times to purge air, then retract the cylicylinder then adjust fluid level? I am assuming that would be the equivalent of letting the implement down, like the loader where the cylinder is retracted.

Tractor is a 2008 Kubota M5040 50HP.

Pictures attached.

 

[ptsg]

Yes, just cycle the cylinder back and forth a couple times, check the level and you're good to go.

If you're using it with the M5040, chances are that you'll barely notice a difference on the oil level.

 

[walker450]

Yes, just cycle the cylinder back and forth a couple times, check the level and you're good to go.

If you're using it with the M5040, chances are that you'll barely notice a difference on the oil level.

Thanks!

I think you're right.... when I bought this tractor (had only owned the BX before) I noticed the hyd oil was a little low on the dipstick... went and bought ONE gallon of UDT fluid... nope didn't help.. another gallon... nope not enough... went back to the dealer a third time, quite embarrassed, and bought a 5 gal bucket. The guy working the counter knocked a little off the price which was the equivalent of the other two gallons being priced like they were bought in bulk in a 5 gallon bucket.

 

[walker450]

It works! I built a handle that goes on the back of the tractor, set engine to about 1600rpm and it takes 9 seconds to extend the length of a normal sized piece of wood, about 18", and about 7 seconds to retract to same position.

Full stroke is 32" and takes 14 seconds to extend and 12 to retract. Of course this is at 1600rpm and it is faster st higher revs but I see no reason to run higher ram and will even try slightly lower. 1300rpm seems like a sweet spot and it takes 11 seconds to extend 20 inches while splitting a piece of wood.

 

[ptsg]

It works! I built a handle that goes on the back of the tractor, set engine to about 1600rpm and it takes 9 seconds to extend the length of a normal sized piece of wood, about 18", and about 7 seconds to retract to same position.

Full stroke is 32" and takes 14 seconds to extend and 12 to retract. Of course this is at 1600rpm and it is faster st higher revs but I see no reason to run higher ram and will even try slightly lower. 1300rpm seems like a sweet spot and it takes 11 seconds to extend 20 inches while splitting a piece of wood.

Great news! I actually run more or less the same RPM as you. It's not too high that you'll just hear the engine screaming but it still gives a decent speed and you can actually still speak comfortably with someone around you.

While I do have an homemade standalone splitter which had several versions over the years (Electric, gas, running of the backhoe), I still run it off the tractor. Mine does have a dedicated valve, so I lock the remote lever on the tractor with a piece of wire and this allows me to operate the splitter closer to the action.

Also, those times you mentioned is for full stroke, which is reality, you don't really have to retract the splitter all the way back, unless you're splitting something really long.

 

[LD1]

How do you reach the valve while holding the wood? Most 3PH splitters have their own local valve, and designed to operate off a continuous remote (or a bungee holding remote open)

 

[walker450]

How do you reach the valve while holding the wood? Most 3PH splitters have their own local valve, and designed to operate off a continuous remote (or a bungee holding remote open)

I have to set the wood in place and walk to the back of the tractor tor, I can basically take 1 step and lean to reach the valve, it "sticks" in either direction so I just push it all the way and it stays there until it hits the end of the stroke and then pops to neutral automatically. I am going to make a rod that goes from the splitter to the back of the tractor so I don't have to step away. I'll post some pictures when it's done. This will keep me from having to buy a valve and more hoses etc. I don't split much wood so it's fine to me.

 

[Birdhunter1]

One thing you might consider is to put a valve on the splitter and then run a constant flow from the tractor to the valve on the splitter so you don't have to walk back and forth. That's what dad and I did on the one we have, we've used a bungee cord to lock the tractor hydraulic remote into a constant flow till we came up with a better lock.

 

[3Ts]

My 3pt splitter has a regular splitter valve on it and I run the power beyond hose from the loader to the splitter valve and the output from the splitter goes to the tank. Lot more convenient than messing with the bungee cord or sticks.

 

[LouNY]

What the OP has is working for him and he is considering adding a remote handle to make it easier.
He could add a valve to the splitter, as long as it's an open center valve he could just plug into his remotes and run similar to what he is doing now. Of course he could get fancy and add a splitter valve.
Prince Auto Cycle Log Splitter Valve RD523MMEE5A1A1 | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
quite a bit of money for a bit of convenience in my mind, but if doing several cord a year maybe worth it.