3 point hitch top link question

allthumbs23 · May 5, 2016

I am using my box blade and need to shorten up the top link a little bit more to get the right level on my box blade. I have it as tight as it will go, but there are a few more threads that I can't seem to use. See pics. Do the two screws in the side have anything to do with this? I cannot get them loose for the life of me to try it out anyway. Thanks

s219 · May 5, 2016

The screws don't have anything to do with it. You have likely reached the minimum length, and the two threaded rods are butting up to each other inside the tube.

Assuming some other adjustment isn't off, you might need to buy a shorter top link. I'd really like to see a picture of the whole arrangement to see the overall geometry though.

allthumbs23 · May 5, 2016

Thanks. What are the screws for?

s219 · May 5, 2016

The screws are just there to plug the two holes in the tube. The holes are used to install pins into the threaded rods so they can't unscrew all the way out.

shovelrider · May 5, 2016

What i have done in the past was shorten them myself. If you are careful you can grind, and taper the threads alittle. Just move the jam nut all the to the end, unscrew the rod. Then grind a little off both ends, not more than an 1/8" from both. Magic:drink:

Leejohn · May 5, 2016

As s219 said the next time you hookup the box blade post a picture. There maybe something else you can do.

gwdixon · May 5, 2016

shovelrider said:
What i have done in the past was shorten them myself. If you are careful you can grind, and taper the threads alittle. Just move the jam nut all the to the end, unscrew the rod. Then grind a little off both ends, not more than an 1/8" from both. Magic:drink:

The OP has a OEM Kubota top link. The ends won't screw all the way out because of the pins installed on the ends through the little bolt holes as S219 describes.

The best solution has already been mentioned...buy a shorter top link from Tractor Supply or similar.

The balls on the replacement top link may be a bit too wide to fit on the tractor-side mount. It is simple to just grind off the ball sides a bit until it fits.

allthumbs23 · May 5, 2016

I went to Fleet Farm and Tractor Supply and all the top links were too big. I got home and tried to unscrew the rods on the top link all the way to cut them shorter, but they got hung up on the ends and would not budge. So I tried to take the screws out and ended up putting the link in a vice and whacking the screws with a hammer and phillips screwdriver, which did loosen them up. I then tried to unscrew the rods and still no luck. So I screwed the pins just back in far enough to peer through the open screw hole and saw they peened the end of the threads to keep them from unscrewing too far. So as a stubborn ironworker, I decided that was surmountable. I unscrewed the rods as far as I could and lubed the crap out of them while turning them out with a long pry bar (piece of rebar) They did come out, and I promptly cut the ends shorter. Fixed! Thanks for the tips.

MX Dad · May 5, 2016

Be careful to make sure you dont accidently unscrew them all the way out now. I did that while the boxblade was on and luckily, I was standing in the perfect spot (except for a ripper that stabbed into my leg and left an ugly bruise and cut). But considering what could have happened, I consider myself lucky and learned a lesson. Actually, I just put hydraulic top link on so I dont think I will have to worry about it anymore. Just be aware and be safe.

allthumbs23 · May 5, 2016

I don't have any attachments at the moment that I extend the top link on, but I could easily pull the screws out and peen the threads again enough through the open holes - but thanks for the suggestion

PhysAssist · May 6, 2016

allthumbs23 said:
I am using my box blade and need to shorten up the top link a little bit more to get the right level on my box blade. I have it as tight as it will go, but there are a few more threads that I can't seem to use. See pics. Do the two screws in the side have anything to do with this? I cannot get them loose for the life of me to try it out anyway. Thanks

One our Kubota OEM toplink, the screws are also the weep holes for the grease which gets forced out when we screw the posts in.

bcp · May 6, 2016

You have a shorter top link now than was intended. Hook up, shorten it all the way, and check that nothing hits the tractor when the implement is fully raised. It will be closer.

Bruce

dgraves49 · May 6, 2016

Another option would be to add the quick attach set up that attaches to just the lift arms which would move the bottom pins back 1 1/2 to 2 inches effectively giving you a little more adjustment on the top link while making it easier to hook up your implement.
Quick Hitch, Pat's Quick Hitch, 3 Point Quick Hitch | Agri Supply, 778, Easy

gwdixon · May 6, 2016

You likely don't have to re-peen the threads of the OEM top link. Aftermarket ones can be screwed out with ease. It is Kubota's lawyers with a CYA feature.

Another option, since you are mechanically inclined, is to buy an aftermarket top link and cut out a section of the body. Then weld it back together and you have a shorter top link. I had to do this to mine for a foreign-made flail mower.

Note how far the threads go in to full depth first, otherwise the ends will hit and limit the depth. But, as previously posted, the threads can be carefully ground off for an even shorter top link.

However, it appears you have the problem solved to your satisfaction. That is the real measure.

prs · May 6, 2016

My blade's top link attachment area has several pin holes from which to choose. So a longer top link would be placed in a higher set of holes and you are good to go ---- unless such limits the lift range too much. Glad you got to work your way!

prs

JWR · May 7, 2016

MX Dad said:
Be careful to make sure you dont accidently unscrew them all the way out now. I did that while the boxblade was on and luckily, I was standing in the perfect spot (except for a ripper that stabbed into my leg and left an ugly bruise and cut). But considering what could have happened, I consider myself lucky and learned a lesson. Actually, I just put hydraulic top link on so I dont think I will have to worry about it anymore. Just be aware and be safe.

We have probably beaten this one close to death. As we used to say in long meetings, no horse is too dead to beat. I found that I could not make much use of a box scraper at all without an hydraulic top link. It makes such a huge difference. It ain't cheap. I paid almost as much for the top link as I did for the box BUT it saves me getting on and off all the time to change angles and to raise and lower tines. Really became the difference between the box being of any use or not. Then I found the hyd top link great for other things too. If you try that route the killer probably is you have no hydraulic remote to run it (??) If you did, be very careful on length selection.

MX Dad · May 7, 2016

Yeah, I went ahead and had the dealer install the Hydraulic Top Link. They installed the remote in the back and a small lever on the right hand side. I havent tried it yet but I will have it back early next week. I didnt do the tilt yet and not sure I will. I dont think I will run across that need enough to justify the costs. But then again, the simpler, the better. My back did not like it when I had to manually adjust that top link. This will be my first experience with a hyd TL but based on other TBN's members, I am confident it is a winner. Sorry if I hijacked the thread there OP.

gwdixon · May 7, 2016

MX Dad said:
Yeah, I went ahead and had the dealer install the Hydraulic Top Link. They installed the remote in the back and a small lever on the right hand side. I havent tried it yet but I will have it back early next week. I didnt do the tilt yet and not sure I will. I dont think I will run across that need enough to justify the costs. But then again, the simpler, the better. My back did not like it when I had to manually adjust that top link. This will be my first experience with a hyd TL but based on other TBN's members, I am confident it is a winner. Sorry if I hijacked the thread there OP.

The hydraulic top link is an outstanding addition for many, or most, implements. It makes hooking up a top link soooo much easier, also.

The hydraulic tilt is especially useful for plows and blades. If you use those quite a bit then you'd appreciate a "tilt" function.

When I plow, setting the parameters is ridiculously easy from the seat with a "top & tilt".

When sloping land for drainage it is the same thing.

But it is quite expensive for the luxury.

s219 · May 7, 2016

If you have the skills to do your own top & tilt setup, it's not that bad. I spent about $300 for two cylinders, another $100 for hoses, and that was it. Now, if you want to count the valves, then it gets expensive, but they have other uses....

MX Dad · May 8, 2016

I have a feeling I will be getting the tilt in the near future. For what little work I do with the BB, I can do it manually now but I have been fighting back pain for a while now and dont expect it to get any better. I'm sure as soon as I start using it a little more frequent than I do now, I'll get tired of the turning by hand. Do you guys use the tilt for any 3 point lifting? Meaning, say there is a root/small stump. Is it a bad idea to lower the tilt and try to pull the root/stump straight up? Bad idea?