3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability

   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #11  
When making a decision between 3/8 and .325, for me it aint about speed at all. Its about lonjevity of the chain. 3/8" chains have bigger teeth, less likely to break if you hit something, and last longer, (more sharpening) before there is no tooth left. To me, that is the reason to choose 3/8 over .325. Not for speed
You STOLE my answer!! lol

I HATE .325 chain! That is why, when I bought my new Husqvarna 550xp I switched it over to 3/8 chain, right away!

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I went from a 20" bar/.325 to a 16"/3/8" chain and it made a REAL saw out of it! lol

ooooooh, did I mention that I HATE .325 chain!!?

SR
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #12  
Another advantage is there is less bar pinching with 3/8 chain. IMO the 3/8 is easier to sharpen especially free handed.
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #13  
We seem to have several differient opinions here from commenters with many variables. It might help if to know the chain size, saw size, bar length, tooth configuration (full tooth or skip tooth and how many skips), and whether the chains are used strictly for cross cutting or milling lumber. I'm thinking of getting a big saw for milling and am really interested in this topic.
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #14  
No one has mentioned this yet, so I'll say that the larger the pitch of the chain (which corresponds to larger cutters) the longer it stays sharp, all other things being equal.

Personally, I prefer 3/8 full compliment semi-chisel chain for most stuff, but for some reason I'm not using much of it. It's sort of stupid, but I've got 3/8 low profile on my new Dolmar 421- it really cuts fast and stays sharp better than expected. Not as hard to sharpen as I thought either.

.325 narrow kerf on my Shindaiwa 488-it was a crime of opportunity. Seems to cut just fine, but it's low quality Oregon chain.

3/8 full comp full chisel on my 036 Stihl- I've got enough saws that this pretty much only gets used for bucking clean wood, mostly softwood. Dulls fast but very fun when sharp.

3/8 full comp semi chisel on my ms460 Stihl- like I said, it's my favorite. Might be a tad slower than if I put full chisel on it, but stays sharp longer and is much more forgiving to sharpen by hand.

What saw and bar size are you considering?
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #15  
Motownbrown,
Thanks for the details. I like the price on the Ecko CS800P (80.7cc) with the shortest bar available 24". I'm also interested in a Husqvarna 395 (93.6cm). For the sake of comparison I guess I'd want around a 24" bar on it too. My understanding is that a shorter bar will be easier on the saw so I'd want an additional 16" or 18" bar for either saw if I could find one.
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thank You all for your input to my original question, I went with the 3/8" on my new 562XP with 20" bar. Other option I was looking at was the 550XP with the .325
Bob
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #17  
Thank You all for your input to my original question, I went with the 3/8" on my new 562XP with 20" bar. Other option I was looking at was the 550XP with the .325
Bob

I wouldn't have even considered .325 on a 562xp, I have the same saw in Jonsered color and it "easily" runs a 3/8-20" bar... I also (as I posted above) a 550xp and it "easily" runs 3/8-16" bar...

To the guy looking at a 395, have you ever run a 395?? For a 24" bar you certainly don't need a 395... You will be on the "rev limiter" a lot with that short of a bar! A 372 runs a 24" bar nicely and it's lighter, uses less fuel and cost less.

SR
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #18  
I'm thinking of getting a big saw for milling and am really interested in this topic
For milling with a chainsaw, you need to go to a "chainsaw milling" specific forum, that's where you will get info from plenty of guys that have LOT'S of chainsaw milling experience, and have it all figured out!

SR
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #19  
I like 3/8 over 325. I like 3/8LP PS PS3 over 325 too. Only time I have used 325 over the others is on a underpowered 50cc saw that couldnt pull full 3/8.

I also switched my 346 550 545 over to 3/8 when new.

Learn more http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php

Only 325 advantage I found was when it comes to limbing as it is smoother limbing. Plus the bars were lighter in same lengths.

Otherwise 3/8 beats 325 all day for bucking and cutting speed.
 
   / 3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability #20  
To the guy looking at a 395, have you ever run a 395?? For a 24" bar you certainly don't need a 395... You will be on the "rev limiter" a lot with that short of a bar! A 372 runs a 24" bar nicely and it's lighter, uses less fuel and cost less.
SR

Rob,
Not only have I never run a 395, I've never seen one in person. To make matters worse, my Stihl dealer has recently become the local Husky dealer and one of his salesmen told me he'd never seen a 395 either. I don't think I've known of a chainsaw miller to complain that his saw had too much power though.
 

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