3/4 ton vs. 1 ton

[Diamondpilot]

9K seems like a high jump.

For me I detest Dually a Trucks. Had one and it was just horrible in snow and mud.

I now only buy 1 ton SRW trucks. They have about 1500# more capacity than a 3/4 ton but no dual rear wheels.

Chris

 

[rustyshakelford]

9K seems like a high jump.

For me I detest Dually a Trucks. Had one and it was just horrible in snow and mud.

I now only buy 1 ton SRW trucks. They have about 1500# more capacity than a 3/4 ton but no dual rear wheels.

Chris

When you pull heavy or something that catches a bunch of wind you can't beat a dually. Sometimes you just have to accept the trade off. I've honestly been stuck more in my current srw than I was in my duallys and they went worst places. I'd pull with the dually a few times a week. Help up fine, I wouldn't want to do that with my srw

Brett

I'll move this around a few times a week if needed when the grass is growing but you can hardly tell it's there. Besr weight I can figure is 15-16k. Need to run across the scales

This is my current truck. Pulls fine but don't do this very often. Trailer is about 22k

This is my old truck. Trailer was around 25-26k

 

[JJZ 109]

I'm thinking $9k to trade same year diesel to same year diesel to basically lose a pickup bed and gain a dually rear axle is pretty steep.

 

[woodchipper]

I do not understand here the real necessity for the dually upgrade. But at 9K extra for the second pair of wheels, I would go to a GM dealer and bargain on a new one ton C&C. Gas engines are just fine to me if you are not driving a zillion miles a year... I would sell the 3/4Ton private to put up as cash down, and finance the balance.
As said by previous poster, true to me as well, that with dually traction in mud and snow is totaly crap. Need good mudders... When talking stability, what a difference you'll get with that added rear set of wheels. The drive is soo better when compared with a 3/4Ton. I have owned a 97 Chevy 3/4T HD, reg. cab, long box, and currently have a 97 Chevy 1Ton dually,long box with standard cab,3.73 gear ratio. Get real good mileage, but towing is limited to 8K, due to the 5.7L Vortek engine. Would be happier with a 14K towing capacity, so I could pull my bigger tractor if needed.

 

[brown40]

It does sound like a lateral move--dual wheels are great for towing, but for well under 9k you could get a nice weight distribution set-up to improve stability and safety. Plus you know what you've got right now--regen systems seem to be less than trouble-free as well--another thing that can go wrong. If you are currently underpowered, the move won't be an upgrade, except for in the fuel bill and ability to get rolling. At 60-65 mph the 4.10 rear is less than ideal, but for country roads its okay. It adds a bunch of weight, its more laterally stable, but your psi applied to the road beneath the rear axle will drop when you double your surface area (unloaded). For wet, snowy or icy roads a narrower footprint is advantageous.
If you've had some pucker events in the SRW that you foresee reoccurring, and a dually would prevent it--safety alone is good enough reason to make a change. Regular high speed towing with heavy loads--a dually is the better tool for the job.

 

[square1]

This is what I found. Anything here jump out at you that I should be concerned about?

Speedo only goes to 120

 

[scaredychicken]

not sure why this thread caught my attention, as this equipment and your needs are way beyond what my experience is (we have a 1/2T, I always wanted a 3/4T truck), that said ... a few thoughts (I glanced at it but did not read all of the specs that were presented in the earlier post - so I've probably missed some detail)

- don't think I would be that eager to switch - what was your reason for buying the 3/4T originally ? has that changed ?
- I never read in the original post that the 1T was a dually (perhaps that is just a given, but I don't know enough about Dodge trucks) - I understand that it is a dually, that may or may not be an advantage for you
- if you want a flat deck / dually (rather than a box), do you also need or want the CrewCab (as offered)? perhaps a 4 dr cab (slightly smaller than Crew) may serve your purposes and possibly give you a longer flatbed ? I also imagine that Lawn Care businesses have many smaller mowers, rakes, shovels, wheelbarrows etc that are needing to be secured on the back of a truck... just an observation... hauling sand, dirt, bricks ???
- will you be wanting to tie everything down / lock up everything daily, with a flatdeck - perhaps insurance rates change (increase) when you go to a flatdeck ???
- out here in BC Canada, the truck boxes are cheaper, than a professionally fabricated flatdeck - so the $ difference may not be that bad actually
- is the flatdeck aluminum or heavy duty steel ? - that weight difference would influence the fuel economy
- is the deck surface wood ? or other (checkerplate ?)
- the difference of $9000 including taxes (with most saying that this is steep), is actually a difference of $8100 - $8650 before taxes, depending on the 4-11% tax rates that I looked up for Louisiana. if that is your starting point, and you are not yet sold on the switch - then my approach would be to lowball with $6 (before tax) - 7K (including tax) difference and see what they say. you can always walk away right ?
- if you are being reasonable and giving them your final offer (it's amazing how often the dealership will suddenly give more incentive (phone calls even days later) after you walk away
- how LONG has the 2012 1T been at the dealership ? if it is a recent inventory item, they may not negotiate as easily as if it was a lot ornament for the past few months
- don't forget that the 2016s will be out in the next few months, that is when they will want to deal (new and used)
- even if you decide that the $9K value (or ???) is worth it for the other truck, is that enough of a value shift to switch vehicles? you have a very nice truck now, will a switch make enough of a difference for that value ?

BOTTOM LINE - if this is the truck you need or want, make the best deal that you can, or walk and wait. Tough call. you need to determine the magic financial line of a deal / no deal. Keep emotions out of it... money on the table talks or walks (we are currently negotiating for a new car), but it's your hard earned money.

All the best as you consider options.

 

[JimRB]

The hay farmer down the road got a new Dodge C&C diesel dual rear wheels and I think 4wd for under $50k. I was thinking closer to $40k but I cannot remember. After seeing all the rediculous $50-60k price tags on 2500 series I was amazed a work truck was so much less than the luxury 2500. Have you priced out commercial trucks at a dealer that has 50-100 commercial trucks? If they do not have a big inventory of commerical trucks then they probably do not have the good pricing to go with a commercial vehicle.

 

[dodge man]

I personally think it would be a step up for you. The big difference being the Asisn transmission and the dally. Don't worry about the power difference. It's less but still more than enough. They detune them for long term durability. The urea is generally not considered a draw back since you get less regens and less fuel wasted so that offsets the Urea cost.

As others have pointed out, do the dollars work out for you? Is the dealer trying to sell a chassis cab that's harder to sell to get your truck? I can't answer those questions.

 

[Mikejeakins]

You have a really nice setup. Rusty