3/4" drive socket questions

/ 3/4" drive socket questions #1  

canoetrpr

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
2,399
Location
Ontario, Canada
Tractor
Kubota M7040 cab/hyd shuttle - current, Kubota L3400 - traded
I hope someone that is more tool savy than I can answer these.

I've decided to bite the bullet and get myself a 3/4" socket when I see one at a good price.

What is the difference between 6pt and 12pt? Which would be better for working on the tractor / implements etc?

I expect that I will have to get both metric and SAE. Most 3/4" sets I see are either SAE or metric - not both. My tractor is metric but I imagine most implement related bolts are SAE. Do you guys recommend getting away with one - SAE or metric or biting the bullet and getting both?
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #2  
Unless you have 12 point headed fasteners,get 6 point sockets. Less likely to slip on a fastener in less than ideal condition. As bolt sizes go up,an SAE socket can often be found that's close enough to the correct metric size to work. I suppose the same would work in reverse. But nothing is quite like having the right size. You'll never regret buying decent tools. Good Luck!
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #3  
What do you have that needs a 3/4 drive?

You do know that 1/2 drive can go up to 1 -1/2"?

I'd say save your $$ and just buy the socket you need in 1/2 drive if that's what you have. You will need to go to a real tool department and not sears or wally's.

jb
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #4  
On a compact tractor with the torque values I've seen, a ½" drive will do fine.

As far as a 6 point versus a 12 point socket, a 6 point will provide a better fit on a fastener. I'd suggest you get 6 point sockets for those sizes used most often (wheel bolt/nuts, for example). I'd also suggest any socket size you expect to use with an impact wrench be a 6 point. There are also sockets made for air impact wrenches...get those for applications such as wheel torque and your rotary cutter blades.

I'm not one for using a "best fit" english or metric socket. The odds are you'll round the head of the bolt off sooner or later (probably sooner). Just buy the sockets used most frequently in the sizing system (metric or english) that matches the fastener. "Best fit" sockets are for emergencies only...not normal usage.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #5  
john_bud said:
What do you have that needs a 3/4 drive?

You do know that 1/2 drive can go up to 1 -1/2"?

I'd say save your $$ and just buy the socket you need in 1/2 drive if that's what you have. You will need to go to a real tool department and not sears or wally's.

jb
It's not so much about the strength of the sockets as the strength of the drive tools. I have given up on trying to keep a 24" long half inch drive breaker bar because absolutely no one makes one that I can't grenade. For home use, I have a cheap 6 point 3/4 drive set. When the Chinese ratchet grenaded, I went to Sears and for $80 (USD) bought a 3/4" drive ratchet of decent quality that is warranteed for life. Kinda the best of both worlds. I have a better 3/4" drive set at work, but we won't go into what that cost......
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #6  
I have found the same thing as you when it comes to 1/2" drive. I bought two 6 point sets (metric and SAE) from Harbor Freight for very little money. I am generally happy with them. One has a better ratchet then the other and seem to be made in different factories, so look at the ratchet in the set and see if it is of decent quality. Since then I found a used 3/4 Craftsman ratchet at a yard sale and now I use it with the HF sockets. The 3/4 sets have been very useful.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #7  
Folks will be happier with their tools if they remember that ratchets are made for speed; not torque. There is not a ratchet on the market that you won't break or wear out prematurely if you use it to try to tighten anything very tight or to break loose tight nuts and bolts. Get a Flex Handle (also known as a breaker bar or breakover handle) to loosen stubborn nuts and bolts.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #8  
When I needed a 2" socket for the old Massey, I checked prices and was able to get a 3/4" drive set with sockets from 7/8" to 2 1/2" from Harbor fright for only a few $$ more than the local tool supplier wanted for a 2" socket. I've been using it occasionally now for 10 years and it works just fine. It's not top of the line but I don't make my living with it either.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #9  
john_bud said:
What do you have that needs a 3/4 drive?

You do know that 1/2 drive can go up to 1 -1/2"?

I'd say save your $$ and just buy the socket you need in 1/2 drive if that's what you have. You will need to go to a real tool department and not sears or wally's.

jb

I second what John said, a 3/4 set sound great and all but unless you have some large equipment you can use a 1/2" set for all your equipment you have listed. Heck, I have a 100hp tractor and have never used my 3/4" set on it. We bought it because it was on sale and figured it would come in handy some day but so far only my brother has used it. I wrench on a lot of equipment and use 3/8 and 1/2 for just about everything. The exception is those spots where you need a 1/4" set:)

Save your money and either buy a high quality 1/2" set or take the misses out to a nice restaurant.

One more thing, if you do have something that requires one large socket (like maybe a nut on a stump jumper or something like that) then you can buy just that socket and the breaker bar or ratchet and be set to go.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #10  
Bird said:
Folks will be happier with their tools if they remember that ratchets are made for speed; not torque. There is not a ratchet on the market that you won't break or wear out prematurely if you use it to try to tighten anything very tight or to break loose tight nuts and bolts. Get a Flex Handle (also known as a breaker bar or breakover handle) to loosen stubborn nuts and bolts.

I have never heard them referred to as Flex handles before. Thats a new one for me but now if I do hear it I won't feel like an idiot and ask "what is that":D
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #11  
I prefer 6 point. I have only metric (Craftsman, lifetime gaurantee). That decision goes back to my motorcycle days. Over the years I have added bigger sockets, both metric and SAE, as required.
Last I checked I could replace my Craftsman socket sets (1/4, 3/8, 1/2) at Sears for the same or less $ than I paid in 1982. If you are not happy with the Sears price take a peek at princess auto. That's where I get my individual sockets and specialty tools these days.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #12  
Robert_in_NY said:
I second what John said, a 3/4 set sound great and all but unless you have some large equipment you can use a 1/2" set for all your equipment you have listed. Heck, I have a 100hp tractor and have never used my 3/4" set on it. We bought it because it was on sale and figured it would come in handy some day but so far only my brother has used it. I wrench on a lot of equipment and use 3/8 and 1/2 for just about everything. The exception is those spots where you need a 1/4" set:)

Save your money and either buy a high quality 1/2" set or take the misses out to a nice restaurant.

One more thing, if you do have something that requires one large socket (like maybe a nut on a stump jumper or something like that) then you can buy just that socket and the breaker bar or ratchet and be set to go.

I've had a Craftsman 3/4 inch set with breaker bar and ratchet for probably 15 years. I use them quite often on TN loader bolts, wheel lugs, Bush Hog blade bolts, and everything on my excavator. I would not be without them.
I might be able to use a 1/2 inch set for some of these tasks but why would I want to use the wrong tool for the task and risk getting hurt? By the way, the original Craftsman ratchet "broke" and Sears replaced it with a better one.

Andy
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #13  
RoyJackson said:
On a compact tractor with the torque values I've seen, a ス" drive will do fine.

Just curious - what are typical torque values on a CUT? I haven't owned one - my only tractor is a utility, which is at the same power level as the big CUTs but another frame size larger. I have fasteners with torque requirements as high as 450 ft-lbs, way beyond what I would expect to use in 1/2" drive sockets. I think I'm getting a set of 3/4" sockets for Christmas; even then I'm going to need a pretty long breaker bar.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #14  
AndyMA said:
I've had a Craftsman 3/4 inch set with breaker bar and ratchet for probably 15 years. I use them quite often on TN loader bolts, wheel lugs, Bush Hog blade bolts, and everything on my excavator. I would not be without them.
I might be able to use a 1/2 inch set for some of these tasks but why would I want to use the wrong tool for the task and risk getting hurt? By the way, the original Craftsman ratchet "broke" and Sears replaced it with a better one.

Andy

Morning Andy,

The OP doesn't have a TN sized tractor or an excavator.

What are you doing where you need to wrench on the loader? I am assuming you are talking about the bolts where the support towers bolt to the tractor. As for the Wheel lugs, I have a giant 4 way that I use on them. I don't remember where I got it but it works great.

I really wouldn't consider a good 1/2" set the wrong tool for the TN. As I said, I have a 3/4" set and I personally think it is overkill for the TN. If I was splitting my 7710 or TN myself I would most likey use the 3/4" but for most work the 1/2" set is more then strong enough. But then again I have the tools to choose from so if I ever feel that the 1/2" breaker bar isn't strong enough for something I can always grab the 3/4" set.

But for the price of a cheap 3/4" set you can get a good 1/2" set that has both SAE and Metric and for a L3400 I would think 1/2" is about the biggest you would need.

But if he has the money and wants to buy another tool set he is able to, I was just loaning my thoughts on the matter in regards to his tractor and my own experience with larger tractors.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #15  
Ol Mister Thrifty here! From time to time, I need larger sockets or ones capable of handling extreme torque values that would toast most typical 1/2" sockets/ratchets. A 3/4" drive set is very useful to me. But why buy a 3/4" set that has limitations below my needs? I bought a good (Snap-On) 3/4" drive deep well 6-point impact socket set, a 24" breaker bar, and a Sears 3/4" ratchet. Then I bought an IR 3/4" impact gun. They've been on the job for 25+ years. They don't come out of the tool box all that often. But it's nice knowing they'll be there when I need 'em.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Those are all very useful responses.

I have a decent set 1/2" drive set that works for almost all applications with my tractor. It is a Mastercraft - similar to Craftsman price/quality from the Canadian Tire chain of stores here. I have both Metric and SAE for most socket sizes.

I've purchased decent larger 1/2" sockets for use with my tractor - upto 1.25". Probably should have bought metric given I have a Japanese tractor, but bought SAE. I will probably add a set of metric so that I have the larger sockets in both.

Most of my money is in good quality 1/2" stuff. Just bought a torque wrench 1/2" drive also.

Every so often, I do run into a need for a 3/4 drive. I find this to particularly be the case with implements rather than the tractor. Two recent examples are:

- I bought a 3PT hay spear and transported in my van with the main spear off. Once I got it home I had to put the spear on and the bolt way WAY bigger than my 1.25" 1/2" drive socket. Had to borrow my neighbours 3/4 set.

- I'd like to replace the lift pins on my landscape rake with ones slightly longer or add a washer or two to widen them as I find that the rake is 25" wide and the rest of my implements are 26 to 27". Again, my largerst 1/2" socket or crescent wrench won't fit.

I just hate the hassle of having to borrow stuff and so I figured I'd bite the bullet and purchase a cheaper Harbor Freight style (locally available at Princess Auto) 3/4" drive set for those few occasions where I do need it.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #17  
I normally wouldn't go the cheap tool route, but for 3/4" sockets I occasionally need the bigger sizes on my older tractors. I bought a Chinese 3/4" set several years ago for $50, later replaced the ratchet with a name brand for $50. This has served my pupose well, again this is not for everyday use! I would not consider cheap tools for everyday use! ~~ Lowell D.
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #18  
I am like most. I bought the 3/4 set from TSC for $40 on sell. Its sae but my tractor is made in China. It is 6 pt and has always had one close enough to meet my metric needs.

Chris
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #19  
Robert_in_NY said:
I really wouldn't consider a good 1/2" set the wrong tool for the TN. .

I definately agree. When working on my TN or 2120 for that matter I use everything from 1/4 to 3/4" drive. I would guess that I actually use 3/8 the most. It's just that there are always bolts I need to revert to the 3/4 for.

Andy
 
/ 3/4" drive socket questions #20  
This is somewhat OT. I have a cheapy 3/4" set in a metal box that looks like someone drove over it????:eek: I would like to put the sockets on the tool board like my other sets. I use the rails with spring clips to hold my other sockets and one time I saw such a system for 3/4". Didn't think to buy it then and can't find one now.

Has anyone seen such a system for organizing 3/4" sockets?

Vernon
 

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